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Body filler process questions

aussiewannabee69

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Hi guys I'm looking for a good book/dvd or something to show me what the process is from after the panels have been metal finished all the way to paint. Eg what sort of filler, does something go on before filler,grades of sandpaper to use, as much info as I can gather before jumping in.

Cheers
 
What I do .... Autobody filler goes right on to a clean grounded bare metal surface.. 36 grit or 40 grit grounded surface ,make sure you feather back the edges first back far enough so you have only a filler to metal surface application only.. make sure when you apply it should be a tight skim for to make sure you have no trapping of airpockets.. then apply a thicker application over top. sometimes in case both directions. this keeps any airbubbles in the filler to a minumal.. .. go the length of the panel.. not up and down.. the wider the damage to fix.. the wider the Squeegee to apply . Make sure its completely dry prior to blocking.. so you dont create any chance of pin holes from tearing the filler.. Board length wize for straightness then cross hatch block for Compound curves.. 40 to shape, or 80 to shape pending on the size of the area.. if you at any chance reach metal on either side of he area.and see a pocket of damaged area. dont keep blocking.. apply to the area the same way you did the first run.. try to keep the filler tight in the area you have to fix.. then you use 80 to feather into the previous filler.. once you have blocked straight.. smoothin out lightly with 120 grit.. any divots you can use a 2 part Putty..dont over use.. Its not intended to fix dents,to clean up just imperfections through the repair..

Thats what I do on a daily base.. every one has a different take on this ,, so you have to decide..
 
Body filler right onto bare steel? I have heard a few strongly advise against that. I've done it without trouble but I would not do it on my own car! I will spread filler over well sanded factory paint or a quality primer though.
You guys call it "bog", right ?
 
What I do .... Autobody filler goes right on to a clean grounded bare metal surface.. 36 grit or 40 grit grounded surface ,make sure you feather back the edges first back far enough so you have only a filler to metal surface application only.. make sure when you apply it should be a tight skim for to make sure you have no trapping of airpockets.. then apply a thicker application over top. sometimes in case both directions. this keeps any airbubbles in the filler to a minumal.. .. go the length of the panel.. not up and down.. the wider the damage to fix.. the wider the Squeegee to apply . Make sure its completely dry prior to blocking.. so you dont create any chance of pin holes from tearing the filler.. Board length wize for straightness then cross hatch block for Compound curves.. 40 to shape, or 80 to shape pending on the size of the area.. if you at any chance reach metal on either side of he area.and see a pocket of damaged area. dont keep blocking.. apply to the area the same way you did the first run.. try to keep the filler tight in the area you have to fix.. then you use 80 to feather into the previous filler.. once you have blocked straight.. smoothin out lightly with 120 grit.. any divots you can use a 2 part Putty..dont over use.. Its not intended to fix dents,to clean up just imperfections through the repair..

Thats what I do on a daily base.. every one has a different take on this ,, so you have to decide..
Thanks for the detailed reply. So you really only need body filler and maybe some putty? I was reading something online and they used filler and about 3 other types of filler on top. Said it was to get it completely smooth and flat
 
Body filler right onto bare steel? I have heard a few strongly advise against that. I've done it without trouble but I would not do it on my own car! I will spread filler over well sanded factory paint or a quality primer though.
You guys call it "bog", right ?
Yeah shes called bog down here.
I've seen different videos doing both ways. This is the confusing part. So many different ways and everyone saying there way is the only way haha.
 
Body filler right onto bare steel? I have heard a few strongly advise against that. I've done it without trouble but I would not do it on my own car! I will spread filler over well sanded factory paint or a quality primer though.
You guys call it "bog", right ?

Body filler is right over steel.. Ive done it also over paint but paid the price for doing it wrong.. Bondo is soft , any primer over top may cause it to ring.. around the outer edge.. thats something that you cannot get rid of.. Putty in the proper manner can be applied over paint.. but the circlular scratch has to be done no coarser that 180 .. no finer than 320..

I have body filler over epoxy like DP 90 But the DP has to be completely dry.. I watch those shows how they load the Filler on.. kind of makes me wonder where they learned there craft from.. The good skills of Finishing metal off properly are long gone to most..
 
Here, the word BOG is often associated with a thicky, muddy hole in the road.
Mud Bogging is the practice of driving a powerful 4 wheel drive through a deep muddy puddle.
People here sometimes call body filler mud. Some also call wet concrete mud.
By the way, people.....CEMENT is not concrete. Your driveway or sidewalk is NOT cement. Cement is defined as a "bonding agent", also known as a glue. Concrete is made up of rocks, sand and cement.
 
Has anyone used Rage Ultra??
Yes, we used a vendor supplied gallon at the shop to try it. Its a thin body filler, spreads very nice. Very few pin holes as long as you do not over spread/ work it.
We will keep using the old regular rage/evercoat do to cost and the fact we are used to the way it preforms. We like the evercoat brand of fillers.
For a pin hole /spot glaze we use Dolphin by Uphol.

Application methods will change from shop to shop, Its like asking a group of cooks how to bake a cake.
The epoxy prime in my view is to control the entire surface on a project car or a complete paint project that has been stripped. Any panel or area the needs filler is going to be sanded down through the epoxy coat with at least a 80 grit before a coat of filler is spread.
Also the epoxy prime coat will allow you to see the panel better than a bare steel panel.
you high and low areas will stand out once you start to DA a area showing you were you need some more dolly and hammer work before filling.
I like to get the panel as straight as possible before filler & priming over the filler.
That will make the guide coat and long board blocking to follow much more effective.
Most all 1st layer of fillers are onto bare steel if the surface is prepped / ground correct to let it and stay put.
 
I used the rage ultra on my latest project. It’s good stuff!
You get what you pay for with body filler.
 
I agree that a quality epoxy primer should be used on all bare metal before anything else. That being said, I have applied filler directly to metal for years and had no issues with it.

The epoxy can be used as a guide coat of sorts by lightly block sanding it with a coarse grit paper. It will turn a dull color except in low spots. Filler can be applied directly to the epoxy without sanding first if still in the re-coat window (can be 5-7 days but see your tech sheet) and then feathered into the panel.

One thing to keep in mind is not to press super hard on your sanding block as it can flex the panel slightly. You will know when you are doing this if you keep applying filler and sanding it off but the panel isn't getting straightened. Better to apply firm pressure and change the paper as soon as it stops cutting.

I used Marson Platinum filler for years and then 3M bought them out. I think the formula changed some but it is still a fairly inexpensive filler that sands decent.
 
Kindigit would disagree with putting filler straight to metal, they do it all the time and those panels/paint come out laser straight.
 
They make fillers for both, I like rage ultra (evercoat) its designed for use on sanded oem paint or steel, aluminum, galvanized steel , smc , fiberglassand silicon bronze welds . depends on budget or build. I prefer bear metal. Everyone has a preference to how they apply it. you get what you pay for. Also like the gold
 
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