Brake Line & Valve Question

[beanhead]

Hi all...I'm about to start getting brake parts together for my 68 Satellite, originally manual drums at all 4 corners...I will be upgrading to manual disc in front and staying with the rear drums for now, and I'm having trouble sorting through all the different info out there...First, do I continue using my drum dist. block and just add an adjustable prop valve for the rear line? (the kit I'm shopping includes the adj. prop valve and a disc/drum MC) Next, I don't know if I need "over" or "under" the frame front lines, the rubber hoses in front hang downward from the tabs on the frame but again that was for drums and the original lines are long gone. I would also really really appreciate any pics you could post showing your lines at the MC/block area and how they run out to the wheels..thanks again for help!!

 

[rrTor-Red]

Beanhead:

I did the same on my '71. My car came with power brakes as well. My kit came with everything for the from conversion as well as the proportioning valve, no adjustable for the rear. Have hard lines in all four corners with about 1 foot or so of rubber line going to the actual wheel. I just bled the system the other day and with a few leaks due to under tightening, I have a firm pedal. My car isn't road worthy as of yet because I'm going from the ground up but engine is ready to fire soon. Other than that, I'm happy with it.

 

[beanhead]

Beanhead:

I did the same on my '71. My car came with power brakes as well. My kit came with everything for the from conversion as well as the proportioning valve, no adjustable for the rear. Have hard lines in all four corners with about 1 foot or so of rubber line going to the actual wheel. I just bled the system the other day and with a few leaks due to under tightening, I have a firm pedal. My car isn't road worthy as of yet because I'm going from the ground up but engine is ready to fire soon. Other than that, I'm happy with it.

View attachment 398482 View attachment 398483

Thanks..I see the tubular control arms too nice!

 

[rrTor-Red]

Thanks. I'm building my car the way I want and don't want to hear from the purist who says "that's not factory".

 

[1badass69]

Did you end up putting a proportion valve on? Even though you kept them all still manual?, I'm doing the exact same thing right now and was told I wouldn't need one, any suggestions....

 

[beanhead]

Did you end up putting a proportion valve on? Even though you kept them all still manual?, I'm doing the exact same thing right now and was told I wouldn't need one, any suggestions....

What I've learned is that you should use a proportioning valve if you're going with a disc/drum combo, with power or manual, to limit the pressure to the rear drums, so you don't lock 'em up and spinny-spinny.....I'm still using my factory manual drum valve (it's really just a distribution block with the safety switch for your brake warning light, but doesn't change any pressures) in conjunction with an adjustable valve plumbed into the rear line. The line on the front port of the M/C feeds the rear brakes, line on the rear port feeds the fronts...here's the basic layout hope it helps

 

[Billccm]

You may want to get Dr Diff as a consultant. I'm using his front disc conversion kit which came with a manual brake front disc/rear drum propotioning block that fits the stock location and stock lines.

 

[beanhead]

You may want to get Dr Diff as a consultant. I'm using his front disc conversion kit which came with a manual brake front disc/rear drum propotioning block that fits the stock location and stock lines.

yep he has a one-piece setup that limits rear pressure although I don't believe it's adjustable, could be wrong on that though...If you can talk to Cass he is definitely a good source

 

[1badass69]

Sounds good, I'll look into dr.diff, I would prefer to get on that hooks up to the stock lines, thanks for the replies, I'll keep you posted...

 

[69 R/T]

I want to do the same thing to my 69 R/T. I have drums and all four corners I was going to buy the Pirate Jack's kit that has the factory looking master and booster too. My question is do you need to change the steel brake lines from drum to disc? Are they smaller diameter for the difference in line pressure... does anybody know? Thanks!

 

[Billccm]

According to Dr Diff the brake lines remain stock. Having said that I had to replace all brake lines because they were frozen at the proportioning block. In fact that's what I'm working on right now.

 

[Fran Blacker]

This should solve any fitting problems if your going to a dual master cylinder. Other fittings are the same. Not Mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190829483865?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Duh you don't need this!

 

[rrTor-Red]

I want to do the same thing to my 69 R/T. I have drums and all four corners I was going to buy the Pirate Jack's kit that has the factory looking master and booster too. My question is do you need to change the steel brake lines from drum to disc? Are they smaller diameter for the difference in line pressure... does anybody know? Thanks!

I just used the supplied rubber hoses that came with my kit. Everything bolted right up as factory. Granted, my car is a couple of years newer and I installed all new brake lines and I didn't use Pirate Jack. Primarily, if anyone is using a kit that has a M/C and booster, the booster is a GM part. To me, no way am I going to use another maker part on my car.

 

[69 R/T]

this is the Repro Bendix unit that's correct for 67 through 69 that Pirate Jack is now offering. The master cylinder even as the correct part numbers stamped on the lid, and since my car is totally stock and want to keep it looking that way, I thought I'd go with this.

 

[rrTor-Red]

Well, well. That's nice someone has come up with a factory looking components when it comes to the brakes. Kuddos to them

 

[69 R/T]

Well, well. That's nice someone has come up with a factory looking components when it comes to the brakes. Kuddos to them

Pretty cool, huh? The entire kit is only $765 for everything including hardware and spindles. The only thing I have to add is a proportioning valve. They have a one-piece unit that replaces the distribution block with the safety switch, that would be easier and much cleaner application. It's about an extra 80 bucks.