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Brakes

Dgc

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I'm new here and was wondering on others opinion of upgrading the brakes on my 67 r/t coronet it's a numbers matching car in middle of complete restore
just not sure about changing original equipment
 
My 69 RR is not as rare or valuable as your 67 RT, so for me upgrade to disc was a no brainer. If you are going to sell it as a 100 point resto keep the stock system. If you are going to drive it, upgrade to disc and keep the original components, it can be converted back later easily as all of the upgrades are reversible (no cutting needed).
 
Myself I would take off and keep the original drum equipment and upgrade to disk, being the stopping power between the two is a night and day difference. Good luck.
 
What brakes do you have on it now? 11"? I ran 11" drums on a 10.60 drag car and they worked very well. So many say drums suck and if equipped with factory type linings, they do suck for the most part but with the right parts, they can work very well.
 
Just do it...
Welcome to FBBO
 
But CRANKY....What you say may be true to a certain extent. However it has been and is proven in today's driving environments, that Disc Brakes out perform any and all Drum Brake front set ups. Why would you or anyone for that matter want to risk not having that stopping ability in a panic situation with these rides of ours? It makes absolutely no sense to put yourself and your ride in that type of what if. Drum Brakes regardless of components installed will always suffer from severe brake fad where Disc's will not. Just me mind you but I would rather substitute for better stopping while keeping all original parts for an eventual return if so necessary. This is just MHFO...cr8crshr/Tuck:headbang:
 
I have a pretty good amount of experience with drum systems. My old race car got 'tested' more than a few times and I knew the brakes were there and did not experience severe fade and didn't have to 'stand' on them to stop it. If you do a search for high performance drum brakes, you might find that they are not as bad as everyone says. I'm 63 and have had many fast cars with drums and did not experience the bad crap that so many say will happen AFTER I went through the system and replaced the junk low end parts. Yeah, disc brakes are king of the litter but a drum system can be made to work very well without breaking the bank.
 
Thanks for the ideas yes I will drive it once it's done not a lot but when I want
it is going to be 100 % original I'm 51 and drive conservative but was thinking about the idiot in front of me with disc brakes and all my work smashing into them
 
I would upgrade to an original disk brakes setup. Not the aftermarket stuff.
 
My insurance co. gave me a discount for having all four disc brakes which in two years or so will pay for themselves. Forty years ago when driving these muscle cars as daily drivers, all I wanted was to have the cars to go fast. Nowadays, it's all about stopping. Go disc, you'll never look back.


:welcome: aboard!
 
Been searching the web and think I am going with disc and keeping all the drum equipment , clean n ready to be put back on if I ever want. I want it all original
but also don't want some kid texting and slamming on the brakes in a civic in front of me . My 3100 lbs trying to stop vs their what , 250 lbs lol
 
It's closer to 3900 lbs, and do what you want, Discs are just a bolt on mod that won't hurt the car. Easy to go back, but I doubt anyone ever has.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and can we get pictures? I'd love to see it in what ever state it's in.
 
So what is a good disc front for a 3900 pound street car? Will the late model A body conversion get the job done?
 
ABody 73-76 would fit the bill or find a stock 67 setup. Speedway Motors sells just the spindles.
 
SSBC has Original Spindle drum to disc brake conversions, among a few other companies
if you don't mind spending a few bucks more,
you'll "usually need a min. 15" wheels {or larger diameter} with the larger 11.25" & larger Rotors & 4 piston/6 piston Force 10 calipers
don't even have to change your drum spindles...
need to change to the disc brake master-cylinder & a proportioning valve for the rear brakes...

There are stock parts from NAPA, Summit Racing etc., that will work easily too,
find a listing for a disc. brake car in your year...
especially if you follow the instructions in the Disc-O-Tech link, that I posted earlier, pretty-much covers everything...

The Ram Man site www.theramman.com has a ton of info too...
that guy is obnoxious as all hell, but he does have the knowledge base & parts available,
kind of pricey for what they are thou, but their Mopar Specific
 
Thanks for the ideas yes I will drive it once it's done not a lot but when I want
it is going to be 100 % original I'm 51 and drive conservative but was thinking about the idiot in front of me with disc brakes and all my work smashing into them
If your brakes over power your tires, it doesn't matter if you have 4 wheel drum or 4 wheel disc, you're going to hit that idiot. Just because someone has disc brakes, it doesn't mean it will automatically stop faster but in all fairness, disc brakes generally wear longer, are self-adjusting (so were drums) and self-cleaning, are less prone to grabbing or pulling, and stop better at high speeds. However, stopping better doesn't always mean stopping faster, but a well set up drum brake system shouldn't grab or pull either but can and will grab and pull when the system gets old and is not maintained.....just like a disc system will. If my old 10.60 race car drum brakes were grabbing and pulling, there would be no way I'd use them and since you said you are not an aggressive driver.......
 
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