Brakes

[Dgc]

Thanks for all the ideas I have spent the last few days reading a lot I like to chew on ideas before I do anything
I'll check out the ones you have posted for me .thanks again
I have no idea how to post pics but will figure it out or check with my IT department , my 14 yr old niece ,lol I have some from farm to trailer n most steps to date. My work slows over winter n I get to work on her a lot so probably be on road next year well I hope anyway

 

[BBishere2]

I was going to put Wilwood's on the front of my 67 Coronet R/T - but after really getting into it - I'm not big on the idea of an aluminum hub and a bolt on rotor - so I think I'm going to go with the SSBC and use a stock type cast iron rotor. Costs a bit more, but i think it's worth it - and will save the original parts in case a new owner wants to restore it back to stock.

What I would prefer to do is to find a donor car with disc brakes - another '67 Coronet - and pirate the parts off of that - that way, all the parts on my car would end up being '67 Coronet parts - easily replaceable as far as knowing what they are off of.... (Plus, I could use a few other parts off the donor as well....)

There is one other thing concerning disc brakes over drum - being a former NAPA auto parts store owner, I was amazed at how many people came in and wanted 'cheap brake pads because they didn't need the good ones'..... I know none of us would do something that stupid - but thought I would toss this out, just in case there were doubts. The difference between the cheap pads/shoes and the better grades is the type and the amount of friction materials used. When you use the cheaper pads/shoes - you're stopping on a higher concentration of glue and bonding agents as opposed to the higher end pads/shoes that will have more friction materials in the mix. Higher end pads/shoes stop you in a shorter distance because you are stopping with more friction materials than glues and binders.

I would tell people that bought the cheapest brakes they could find - to remember to tell their wife and kids, just before they hit the side of that gas tanker in the road, that they will be happy remembering that I saved us about $10.00 or so buying the cheaper brakes. If you bought the good ones, you'll stop before you hit the truck - but that didn't matter to them.

 

[GetX'd]

I went with a 4 wheel disc set up from Right Stuff. They make my pump and pray drum set up look jet sons vs flintstones....

 

[BBishere2]

Follow-up to my original post: I'm going to buy the 11 3/4" HD brake kit from DoctorDiff for my front disc brake package - those will do quite nicely. Change the master cylinder over to a disc/drum type - from what I'm finding out, by going to a HD basically stock brake set-up, may get by with the stock type proportioning valve - but I'll probably not take the chance and plumb in an adjustable one - knowing how my luck usually goes - and just for sh*ts and grins, may plumb in a line-lock on the front wheels while I'm at it....
Since the Dr Diff kit includes the spindles, will knock off the old suspension and steering pieces while under there and rebuild the front end...

Not brake related, but was planning on installing the SS rear leaf springs and that has changed too - going to install the XHD springs instead - since this car will be more street driven than anything else, the XHD springs should be a better choice with Bilsteins all the way around.