Break in oil??

[djais1801]

As my motor is being rebuilt, i am wondering if i have to use special oil for the break in period? I was using the Brad Penn 10w40. prior to the tear down...

 

[tpodwdog]

i had always used 10w-30 to break in a new engine.....no special additives or nuthin...its thin enough to get into tight spots on a new engine.....but i have not built an engine for over 25 years.

make DAMN sure the oil pump is primed...once again,,,,25 years ago i used vasoline petroleum jelly NOT JAMMED IN TIGHT just a big glob.

these guys may or may not agree with that but since they have built engines alot more recently than i have,,,,i would go with what they say to do !

id do an oil change every 500 miles for the first 1500 miles on the new engine!

 

[mattsmopars]

I would definatly use a good quality break in oil. Amsoil has a break in oil, Joe Gibbs racing oils, comp cams, and many other as I am sure Brad Penn does to. Also as tpodwdog said make sure that you prime you oil pump before you drop the distributor in before start up.
I also pull the inner spring if I am running a double valve spring so that I don't have the high spring pressure during the break in.
I believe in using a good break in oil for the critical engine break in period.
I also believe in running a good quality High zinc oil after that.
Not this oil from autozone. Once you have a cam wipe a lobe down you start to think about the extra insurance. Just my 2 cents
Matt

 

[Northwest]

I just had mine rebuilt last year. Flat tappet cam engine - and the builder absolutely recommended using Joe Gibbs xp4 for break-in and every change thereafter. Its a 15w-50. High zinc content. Costs a lot - like $10 a quart - but that is what he recommends. Small price to pay given the whole deal.

 

[TruBee]

I used/use Joe Gibbs Hot Rod 15w-50 high Zinc Formulation on my stroker build. The Zinc is great for storage protection as well. There's my two cents. Grab 48 other lads and you'll have a dollar! Good luck with your build!

 

[Stumper]

X3, I would also recommend a good break in oil, most if not all of which are not synthetic oils. After a few hundred miles on the break in oil stay with a "good" oil. Use one of the high zinc oils after break in, unless you are running a close to stock hydraulic cam motor.
I'm using Comp Cam 15w50 high zinc muscle car oil now and the last price I paid was less than $5/qt from Summit...

 

[MoparBill]

Brad Penn has a good break in oil- Mancini Racing sells it.

 

[djais1801]

thanks to all

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Last time around ARC insisted on LUCAS break in oil.

 

[wannadrag]

Brad Penn 30 wt break in oil.After break in dump it and replace with Brad Penn 10w 30 along with a fresh filter.

 

[67 B-body]

Brad Penn...... had 20-50 in mine from startup till today... NO TROUBLES!

 

[Cranky]

One of the things I do that many don't is check the rotor clearance in the oil pump. I started doing this after a guy brought me a freshly built 340 that was wasted due to a seized up oil pump. This happened 27 years ago. When I took it apart, it only had .001 clearance and a small particle got by the filter somehow and stuck the pump. If you don't have a depth mic, plasigage will work and I like no less than .002" clearance.

 

[tpodwdog]

that Brad Pitt guy sure does get around!

 

[Ron 73]

I don't rebuild my own engines, never have but breaking one in has to be done whoever does the work, I agree with a lot of these suggestions but i do like Castrol oil, years back i used Valvoline. These guys do this a lot so i wont add anything except my choices of oil used in the past without any problems. I always used a 10-40 weight oil in my street engines back in the day and now as well (so far in my car). 10-30 at break in also Changed 3-5 hundred miles, then 10-40.

 

[Meep-Meep]

The old timers used to tell me non detergent to start then change at 250 mles; 250 miles; 500 miles then at 1000 do what you want. This most likely assumes 50's and 60's engines with low valve spring pressures but today I just use an oil with good film strength and can take the heat.

 

[djais1801]

The old timers used to tell me non detergent to start then change at 250 mles; 250 miles; 500 miles then at 1000 do what you want. This most likely assumes 50's and 60's engines with low valve spring pressures but today I just use an oil with good film strength and can take the heat.

it may take me a long time to hit those intervals...only gonna be driving sporatically

 

[67 coronet]

you should always use the same weight oil for break in that you are going to run on a regular basis.only time you need to use specialty oils is when you have a tight tolerance,high valve spring rate eng.hyd roller or flat tappet need better oils,std hyd lifters can just use good quality name brand oil.break in oils and addatives are only needed on tighter tolerence motors to help everything"seat in"faster.dont get me wrong,they wont hurt a std street motor,but you really dont need them.

 

[moparstuart]

Last time around ARC insisted on LUCAS break in oil.

that what i used and then there 20/50 zink racing formula

 

[Moparsmitty]

Why take any chances? Use a brand name high zinc & phosphorus break in oil. Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Comp, or whatever. I see way too many freshly rebuilt engines come into our shop with wiped out cams. They used the proper cam lube during assembly but used regular off the shelf oil. Not good.:crybaby2:

 

[wannadrag]

why take any chances? Use a brand name high zinc & phosphorus break in oil. Brad penn, joe gibbs, comp, or whatever. I see way too many freshly rebuilt engines come into our shop with wiped out cams. They used the proper cam lube during assembly but used regular off the shelf oil. Not good.:crybaby2:

x1000