Break in oil??

[HEMI-ITIS]

The power gains are there for the roller,no doubt about it.Took me a long time before I stepped up and pulled the trigger and that was over 20 years ago.It's my preferance to use a roller.

Fresh from FABO>>>> http://campaign.r20.constantcontact...O_NXrm6GyjIH4zEqPvOAAl648zEggXfZS6&id=preview

 

[racedodge]

You don't break in newly built motors on syn oil ONLY because it would be a waste of $60 to $70 of oil that is going to be dropped shortly, break in with a roller motor is only to seat the rings and remove any small dust or something that might have been in the build and get it out.

Really?.... You do not break in an engine with synthetic oil NOT because it is a waste of money, but because it does NOT properly allow your rings or your camshaft (i.e. flat tappet) to break in properly... it is just not recommended, again.. ask any machine shop. It is definitely NOT because you dont want to waste money on oil.. its based upon the characteristics of that oil.

A flat cam needs heat cycles and then to remove the coatings applied and only needs the added zinc for that time.


So you're theory is i should use a inferior flexing rocker a old school power robbing drag creating lifter and cam that can't make better power lower rpm, mid rpm and high rpm and keep the frictional loss even for a 400hp motor and lose all the power gains and mileage because it's smarter to keep the 1500 for use at the gas pump and increased oil changes rather than use less gas and have longer oil changes....

no, you are putting words in my mouth.. stick to the actual argument and quit making stuff up. You can do whatever you want... others have the option of doing something else if they want... you are saying we should all just do what you recommend because you think you know better.

I use good stuff whether it's a 1400hp motor or a 400hp motor, it would be kinda negative to do otherwise IN either case, why you would do anything less is beyond me.

.

good stuff is based upon the manufacturer and your desired build, not your checkbook. if your build does not require $3000 worth of stuff you dont need, then just because YOU say you need it, doesnt mean we do. Your first, middle and last name is not mopar... so please get off your high horse and quit thinking that was is good for you, is good for everyone else.

I am done with this... back to the regularly scheduled programming of "BREAK IN OIL?"

 

[Supershafts]

The actual truth here is you aren't looking for optimal performance but you'll take what you can get with what you have.

If you were done you should have left it alone.

The rings break in within minutes as rings do, how you do that is very important to seal and was done optimally with a roller, you can't with a flat since the flat needs a constant rpm.

Here is why you shouldn't waste $90 oil during break in

1. when you break in oil, the rings for the 1st few minutes aren't sealing and l;et gas get by and contaminate the oil.
2. as the rings seat (in the first few minutes) they grind themselves into the shape they need to be
3. the rings as they ground themselves up that minute bit gets into the oil
4. if you have a old tech low power flat cam you have that doing the same as well as the lube
5. when breaking for optimal seal you want in the 1st few minutes to see many different rpms, high and med, not a constant.
6. then you need to drop that oil right away to remove all that crap so you don't ruin anything.
.

 

[racedodge]

The actual truth here is you aren't looking for optimal performance but you'll take what you can get with what you have.

If you were done you should have left it alone.

The rings break in within minutes as rings do, how you do that is very important to seal and was done optimally with a roller, you can't with a flat since the flat needs a constant rpm.

Here is why you shouldn't waste $90 oil during break in

1. when you break in oil, the rings for the 1st few minutes aren't sealing and l;et gas get by and contaminate the oil.
2. as the rings seat (in the first few minutes) they grind themselves into the shape they need to be
3. the rings as they ground themselves up that minute bit gets into the oil
4. if you have a old tech low power flat cam you have that doing the same as well as the lube
5. when breaking for optimal seal you want in the 1st few minutes to see many different rpms, high and med, not a constant.
6. then you need to drop that oil right away to remove all that crap so you don't ruin anything.
.

whatever dude, I guess you know more than my machinist does who has been doing this for 37 years and has worked on everything from big CAT diesels to motorcycle engines. You keep believing whatever in the hell you want to believe, because in your mind your right and that is all that matters. I just hope all the other people who read this thread are able to discern your bullsh*t from common sense, truth, and the understanding that throwing more money at something in the name of "performance" is specifically, and without doubt, based upon the individuals budget and NOT because some new guy shows up on a forum and decides the best way for him to introduce himself is to tell people where they are wrong and he is right and actually think we should listen to him,... "just because".

 

[snakeoil24]

The Zinc protects the cylinder walls after the break in period. also the Zinc is good for roller lifter bearings if you do not have a flat tappet cam. Make sure you run a film of assembly lube obn the back of your timing gear face. Soak your lifters for 1 full day in warm engine oil with Zinc and putt assembly lube on the lifter bores. Another area to consider is rubbing graphite on your cylinder walls. This is available from Summit racing to help the break in period. The first 30 seconds mean everything.

 

[Supershafts]

whatever dude, I guess you know more than my machinist does who has been doing this for 37 years and has worked on everything from big CAT diesels to motorcycle engines. You keep believing whatever in the hell you want to believe, because in your mind your right and that is all that matters. I just hope all the other people who read this thread are able to discern your bullsh*t from common sense, truth, and the understanding that throwing more money at something in the name of "performance" is specifically, and without doubt, based upon the individuals budget and NOT because some new guy shows up on a forum and decides the best way for him to introduce himself is to tell people where they are wrong and he is right and actually think we should listen to him,... "just because".

You don't even know what i do or have been doing.

So YOU telling me that a flat cam is better for performance when its not is actually wrong.

Let me educate you on how you should break in a new build... and im sure your machinist if he is worth anything will agree.

When you start it up the rings very quickly need to be worked in, and having a flat cam means you CAN NOT properly break the rings in since a flat cam needs to be run at a specific rpm and for a specific interval or 2 intervals.

ALL engine builders know this is not good for breaking in...(the ones that are good and grow with learning new things, rather than ignore)

What is good for sealing rings is changing the rpm and doing so very quickly from the second it fires off for the next few minutes, a very short few minutes, having a flat cam is a negative effect on this and as EVERYONE has learned (except your stuck in the same old 37 year world machinist) the past 40 years sealing rings need lots of fluctuation, not 20 mins of 2000 rpm.

So you can't have a very good performance build from a flat cam that can not make the same power as a roller and can not set the rings as good either.
Facts that you and maybe your builder have no clue about.
Also you want to get rid of that now riddled with contaminants and small particles as quickly as possible and not a hour or hours or days later.

If you want to build low or lack of performance then that is what you are doing.
Why you still live in 1960's tech and refuse to learn is your own ignorance.

.

 

[racedodge]

You don't even know what i do or have been doing.

So YOU telling me that a flat cam is better for performance when its not is actually wrong.

No you moron, I never said that, and if you would open up your eyes and actually read what I am saying instead of only understanding what you think I am saying then maybe, you could remove your cranium from your **** orifice.

Let me educate you on how you should break in a new build... and im sure your machinist if he is worth anything will agree.

THE QUESTION AND TOPIC OF THIS THREAD HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE BREAK IN PROCEDURES OF AN ENGINE, BUT RATHER WHAT IS THE BEST "BREAK IN OIL" TO USE. YOU STARTED IN ON "PERFORMANCE" AND THIS CONDESCENDING REMARK THAT ABSOLUTELY HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE TOPIC AT HAND, BUT RATHER YOUR ATTEMPT TO FLUFF YOUR CHEST AND POLISH YOUR EGO:

You won't need the high zinc high cost oil if you lose the old school flat cam...

Don't know why anyone would build anything on old school flat cams.

The last statement is purely opinionated and condescending. Who do you think you are to make a statement like that, and not to be challenged? By stating such a thing, you are pretty much calling all those guys that go OEM, or want to stay mopar OE correct, STUPID and IGNORANT. So if a guy builds a OE gold concours hemi cuda and uses the OE cam, I guess you have no idea why he would be doing that.... duh!!! It's to stay OE correct.

You may be MOD happy and may get wood from performance, but to state that everyone who doesnt think like you is ignorant, well damn cletus... keyboard courage makes you a big man now dont it?

You may have mad skillz, you may have mad intelligence, but your candor (and inability to not sound like a four legged animal name Eeyore) has already made up my mind that is there is absolutely nothing that you can say or do that (1) I do not already know or (2) would make me want to learn or even listen to you.

If you want to build low or lack of performance then that is what you are doing.
Why you still live in 1960's tech and refuse to learn is your own ignorance.

Because not everyone is like you your eminence. We all do not want a HP thriving powerplant in our engine bays, we just go with what we got and the $$ we got in our bank account. If you cannot see that, understand that, or even grasp onto that concept... than truly, you are not ignorant, but just so damn narcissistic and self-centered that it would be impossible to.. wait.. um.. yes.. it is impossible to discuss this with you because you fail to grasp the whole point of this thread... WHAT BREAK IN OIL TO USE... NOT.. "HEY SUPERSHAFTS, PLEASE CALL US IGNORANT FOR NOT BUILDING EVERYTHING WE HAVE JUST LIKE YOU AND KEEP IT PERFORMANCE ORIENTED, WHILE AT THE SAME TIME MAKING SURE THAT WHATEVER RECOMMENDATIONS YOU MAKE WE SHOULD FOLLOW TO A 'T', BECAUSE WELL.. YOU SAID THEM AND WE MUST FOLLOW THEM".

It is people like you that make me think these experiments in forum sharing is a bad idea. You are so damned stuck on yourself and what you think is right that if anyone else has a differing opinion, you will do your very best to strike it down and demean those around. Go to moparts.com, you would fit perfectly over there.

 

[Supershafts]

Use the cheapest oil then since it needs to be removed in less than 30 minutes of use.

Now you know more than you did before about break in and cams and why.

If you don't want a hp thriving power plant, why not one that is efficient and better? Still the roller is better
You'll have a better sealing motor, and better use of it's performance whether it be 300hp or 3000hp

If i demeaned you i VERY clearly would have said....

You DICK why would you be so stupid and use a flat cam.........


Then i would never give you all the benefits i have given you for the reasons they're better and how it effects more important parts of the breakin procedure.

So maybe we both have read into what isn't there, but if i was being demeaning thats EXACTLY how i would be so there is no mistake or question.

 

[terzmo]

bradd penn 10-30 breakin oil

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Must be a Long Island NEW YORK problem:sideways tongue::happy1:

 

[69 roadrunner]

This is better than any tv show. I say use sunflower oil that way when you drain it you can pop popcorn and watch this fourm. Thanks steve

 

[Sixer]

For what it's worth-I have for some years used GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement), an oil additive specifically for new engine break-in. I would guess that the various supplements from Comp Cam etc are basically the same. I get a pretty good deal on it, as I'm in the biz so to speak, so I use 1/4 bottle at every oil change on my bikes and R/T for cam-follower protection. A little goes a long way.

Another easy tip is to use oil spec'd for diesels, like Rotella or Delo, Mobil 1 20-50 or even 10-40, all of which fall outside the car spec rule-generally any oil not showing the Energy Conservation Symbol

is the stuff to use.

 

[djais1801]

thanks guys..great info..and some good entertainment as well !

 

[Moparpwrstude]

I heard even the diesel oil has been reformulated, I have a Studebaker-they all have flat tappets, and that was a good source of oil that didn't run $10 a quart.

 

[snakeoil24]

Rotella was a really good oil for break in and it cost 1.39 a quart. I rememebr paying .49 cents and it had loads of Phoshorus and zinc.

 

[racedodge]

Use the cheapest oil then since it needs to be removed in less than 30 minutes of use.

finally, something that is has sense w/o all the holier than thou dribble.

Now you know more than you did before about break in and cams and why.

knew enough before and really did not need your input in regards to the entire process of break-in.. I think you needed to say it more than we needed it read it.

If you don't want a hp thriving power plant, why not one that is efficient and better? Still the roller is better
You'll have a better sealing motor, and better use of it's performance whether it be 300hp or 3000hp

never said it wasnt, you just kept thinking I did.. but you still wont let it go will ya?

If i demeaned you i VERY clearly would have said....

You DICK why would you be so stupid and use a flat cam.........

you didnt have to be that direct to have your words mean the same thing.. i would have respected you more if you did though.. either way it doesnt matter, you meant it, you just didnt say it.

I will be honest, I called you, "...an ignorant, cocky, tunnel-visioned jackass who didnt care what other peoples opinions were, because the only one that seems right in your mind is yours." I didnt type it, cuz I wanted to be a little nice. Now, I dont care because that is what I thought of you the entire time.

Then i would never give you all the benefits i have given you for the reasons they're better and how it effects more important parts of the breakin procedure.

So maybe we both have read into what isn't there, but if i was being demeaning thats EXACTLY how i would be so there is no mistake or question. PASSIVE AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR IS YOUR FRIEND

Where is that bullshit flag when you need it? oh.. here

I have not read into anything you have typed. I have responded to you accordingly and attempted to keep you focused on the thread. Your inability to control your "tangents" and my inability to deal with jackwagons without providing a retort made this go off topic more than what it should.

so, i apologize to all who may have found my past and current wording offensive or mildly humorous :sideways tongue:

anyway, I have come to the conclusion that I think you are a total douche bag and I would rather not comment any further on this. have a nice day :backontopic:

 

[Supershafts]

I will be honest, I called you, "...an ignorant, cocky, tunnel-visioned jackass who didnt care what other peoples opinions were, because the only one that seems right in your mind is yours." I didnt type it, cuz I wanted to be a little nice. Now, I dont care because that is what I thought of you the entire time.

Well only simpltons resort to name calling.
There not opinions, you don't want to see that, opinions aren't facts.
Facts don't seem right in ones mind they are right always.
Oh please by all means let your true colors wave.... Im surprised you have been able to keep from going awry this long and just make nothing good of this conversation but little school girl name calling

anyway, I have come to the conclusion that I think you are a total douche bag and I would rather not comment any further on this. have a nice day :backontopic:

the little girl name calling, only a real douchbag resorts to that.


You have a wonderful weekend.

 

[72Satellite440]

Thx for all the helpful info and I should be able to use it within a week...

I was talking to a mechanic and he said during breakin you should have it in 2nd gear-and at a higher 2500+ rpm...

What do you guys think- I know my tranny guy said to have it in neutral and add oil in until full first...opinions?

 

[67 B-body]

Well only simpltons resort to name calling.
There not opinions, you don't want to see that, opinions aren't facts.
Facts don't seem right in ones mind they are right always.
Oh please by all means let your true colors wave.... Im surprised you have been able to keep from going awry this long and just make nothing good of this conversation but little school girl name calling



the little girl name calling, only a real douchbag resorts to that.


You have a wonderful weekend.

It's not just him,,,, I think your a real douchbag too,,, and very condescending in your words....
Nobody needs your shity comments here!
How did you ever get the notion to switch the topic of this post anyhow?
This is supposed to be about oil,,, not your opinion on camshafts......
BTW,,,
I think my relatively low cost build generating WELL over 600 street driven horsepower is just fine, and done without a roller cam....

Now that you've read others commenting on your demeanor, I hope that you'll go away with the understanding that it is fact the way you have handled yourself that is inappropriate!

:iamwithstupid:

 

[Supershafts]

I only see the 2 name calling as the problem, whether or not you understood the facts given, i didn't act as you and resort to name calling.
Condescending is what you read into it.