Break in oil??

[racedodge]

lucas break in or synergen with 20-50 VR1.

 

[mopar367]

I bought 15 w 50 comp break in oil for my engine I just rebuilt. I soaked the lifters in the special oil too before installation. The quality oil with additives such as zinc are good insurance that your cam will live.

 

[mattsmopars]

Here is something else that makes no sense to me. People will spend the money to rebuild an engine, but don't want to spend $10.00 a quart for a quality high zinc oil? Most people only need to change oil in their classic car 1 time a year. So what is the the big deal about spending $65.00 - $85.00 a year for good oil and a little insurance? Also the Joe Gibbs Hot rod oil, Amsoil Z rod, and some others have anti-corosion additives for the long storage periods. More of my 2 cents. Matt

 

[Stumper]

Here is something else that makes no sense to me. People will spend the money to rebuild an engine, but don't want to spend $10.00 a quart for a quality high zinc oil? Most people only need to change oil in their classic car 1 time a year. So what is the the big deal about spending $65.00 - $85.00 a year for good oil and a little insurance? Also the Joe Gibbs Hot rod oil, Amsoil Z rod, and some others have anti-corosion additives for the long storage periods. More of my 2 cents. Matt

I agree whole heartedly. But you don't have to spend $10/qt for the good oil.

 

[racedodge]

VR1 20w-50 is only 5.99 a quart and I would put it up against any of those 10 buck a quart oils.

 

[Supershafts]

You won't need the high zinc high cost oil if you lose the old school flat cam...

Don't know why anyone would build anything on old school flat cams.

 

[67 B-body]

You won't need the high zinc high cost oil if you lose the old school flat cam...

Don't know why anyone would build anything on old school flat cams.

I guess you'll just eat up that fuel pump pushrod with your roller cam installed and running modern blended oils?
How about the contact points between the lifter and pushrod, or pushrod to rocker arm?
I recently sold a FBBO member a fuel pump pushrod because of this.....
Fact of the matter is this, there are more components within our engines that still have mechanical seating in which oil is supposed to prevent excessive wear and premature failure.

Look guys,,, there is nothing wrong with flat tappet cams mechanical or hydraulic. It's the government that has the problem by forcing the removal of vital components within the oil blend that was "supposed" to prevent engine wear!
Like it or not, the oil suppliers are going to be charging more for the old blend oils due to limited production and because they just can.... If we want to safely run our vehicles, were stuck with it now....
Once again,,, I like the results so far running Brad Penn oil 20w - 50w.

Happy Moparing:headbang:

 

[racedodge]

You won't need the high zinc high cost oil if you lose the old school flat cam...

Don't know why anyone would build anything on old school flat cams.

because a lot of people would rather not pay $350-$400 for a roller cam.. then have to spend $500 for roller rockers and then $100 for pushrods, and finally $450 for roller lifters.

 

[Supershafts]

I guess you'll just eat up that fuel pump pushrod with your roller cam installed and running modern blended oils?
How about the contact points between the lifter and pushrod, or pushrod to rocker arm?
I recently sold a FBBO member a fuel pump pushrod because of this.....
Fact of the matter is this, there are more components within our engines that still have mechanical seating in which oil is supposed to prevent excessive wear and premature failure.

Look guys,,, there is nothing wrong with flat tappet cams mechanical or hydraulic. It's the government that has the problem by forcing the removal of vital components within the oil blend that was "supposed" to prevent engine wear!
Like it or not, the oil suppliers are going to be charging more for the old blend oils due to limited production and because they just can.... If we want to safely run our vehicles, were stuck with it now....
Once again,,, I like the results so far running Brad Penn oil 20w - 50w.

Happy Moparing:headbang:

I haven't used a flat cam since 1985, and i can't believe anyone would in 2000 with the performance they create over the flat...
Why use 40 year old stuff when the benefits outweigh the slight savings

because a lot of people would rather not pay $350-$400 for a roller cam.. then have to spend $500 for roller rockers and then $100 for pushrods, and finally $450 for roller lifters.

More like 300/330 and 500 for hyd rollers...and like 420/450 for solids which i would use over the hyd

BUT, who would be putting together any motor for performance and NOT using a better rocker which means new push rods anyway and why do something half way wrong and go backwards 30 years with a flat cam...




.

 

[racedodge]

More like 300/330 and 500 for hyd rollers...and like 420/450 for solids which i would use over the hyd

BUT, who would be putting together any motor for performance and NOT using a better rocker which means new push rods anyway and why do something half way wrong and go backwards 30 years with a flat cam...

because not every builds a motor for performance... some just want something to cruise around with, not see how fast they can go in the quarter mile.

I can understand your argument "if" I was wearing your horseblinders, but since I am not wearing those same horseblinders, you have to realize that not everyone wants or even needs to build a 550-650hp engine to get their rocks off... and if I am not or I do not plan on building an engine of that magnitude, why would I ever spend the money "just because" I want to alleviate or remove the quandry of what oil I should be putting in my car?

So I should spend $1500 more on parts (because I didnt include valves/valvesprings/locks/retainers... not even mentioning possible headwork or just buying aluminum heads) just so I can feel comfortable with running a synthetic oil... that I SHOULD NOT BE USING when I am breaking in an engine in the first place.

Seriously dude? You ask any reputable machine shop and they will not tell you to break in our style of engines with synthetic oils... period.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

<-- Comp Cams break-in oil. Also I want to note that Carolina Machine Engine's wouldn't even warranty our shortblock unless we used engine oils (muscle car oil, etc.) with high zinc contents. Regardless, I use good, off the shelf oil but with a bottle of zinc additive from Edelbrock. My question is, why would ANYONE skimp on a few quarts of oil after spending countless thousands on their engine? Kind of like the people who pay $50,000 for a new car and complain about the price of unleaded regular gas to drive it...

 

[Supershafts]

because not every builds a motor for performance... some just want something to cruise around with, not see how fast they can go in the quarter mile.

I can understand your argument "if" I was wearing your horseblinders, but since I am not wearing those same horseblinders, you have to realize that not everyone wants or even needs to build a 550-650hp engine to get their rocks off... and if I am not or I do not plan on building an engine of that magnitude, why would I ever spend the money "just because" I want to alleviate or remove the quandry of what oil I should be putting in my car?

So I should spend $1500 more on parts (because I didnt include valves/valvesprings/locks/retainers... not even mentioning possible headwork or just buying aluminum heads) just so I can feel comfortable with running a synthetic oil... that I SHOULD NOT BE USING when I am breaking in an engine in the first place.

Seriously dude? You ask any reputable machine shop and they will not tell you to break in our style of engines with synthetic oils... period.

You don't break in newly built motors on syn oil ONLY because it would be a waste of $60 to $70 of oil that is going to be dropped shortly, break in with a roller motor is only to seat the rings and remove any small dust or something that might have been in the build and get it out.
A flat cam needs heat cycles and then to remove the coatings applied and only needs the added zinc for that time.


So you're theory is i should use a inferior flexing rocker a old school power robbing drag creating lifter and cam that can't make better power lower rpm, mid rpm and high rpm and keep the frictional loss even for a 400hp motor and lose all the power gains and mileage because it's smarter to keep the 1500 for use at the gas pump and increased oil changes rather than use less gas and have longer oil changes....

I use good stuff whether it's a 1400hp motor or a 400hp motor, it would be kinda negative to do otherwise IN either case, why you would do anything less is beyond me.

.

 

[mopar367]

Maybe some of us want to keep with the old school ideas. Nothing wrong with a good old purple shaft.

 

[67 B-body]

I haven't used a flat cam since 1985, and i can't believe anyone would in 2000 with the performance they create over the flat...
Why use 40 year old stuff when the benefits outweigh the slight savings





More like 300/330 and 500 for hyd rollers...and like 420/450 for solids which i would use over the hyd

BUT, who would be putting together any motor for performance and NOT using a better rocker which means new push rods anyway and why do something half way wrong and go backwards 30 years with a flat cam...




.

I can't believe, that you can't believe... LOL
It's up to the builder / owner on what he or she likes, prefers, wants, whatever.??
Maybe someone likes the way a particular camshaft performs, "regardless of what might be avaliable and concidered better or worse"? I happen to enjoy solid flat tappet camshafts.... This doesn't suggest that a roller solid or hyd is a bad choice, nor does it suggest that a hyd flat tappet camshaft is a poor choice for a particular build.
I would like to try a solid roller setup someday too,,,, just haven't broke down and spent the Xtra cash on the entire package to do it.... I kinda like the thought of decreasing the duration and keeping the lift, and is one of the reasons I like the solid flat tappet lifter cams... Kinda does the same thing on a smaller scale.
I just don't like counting out ANY particular setup, just because I don't use it.... That's just a good way to heat someone up, and is simply a preferance in options....:jerk:

I would still use Brad Penn oil regardles of camshafts available.

 

[67 B-body]

Maybe some of us want to keep with the old school ideas. Nothing wrong with a good old purple shaft.

I'm using the .590" Purple cam with 1.6 ratio rockers.... I like how it performs and that's the bottom dollar.

 

[Supershafts]

I can't believe, that you can't believe... LOL
It's up to the builder / owner on what he or she likes, prefers, wants, whatever.??
Maybe someone likes the way a particular camshaft performs, "regardless of what might be avaliable and concidered better or worse"? I happen to enjoy solid flat tappet camshafts.... This doesn't suggest that a roller solid or hyd is a bad choice, nor does it suggest that a hyd flat tappet camshaft is a poor choice for a particular build.
I would like to try a solid roller setup someday too,,,, just haven't broke down and spent the Xtra cash on the entire package to do it.... I kinda like the thought of decreasing the duration and keeping the lift, and is one of the reasons I like the solid flat tappet lifter cams... Kinda does the same thing on a smaller scale.
I just don't like counting out ANY particular setup, just because I don't use it.... That's just a good way to heat someone up, and is simply a preferance in options....:jerk:

I would still use Brad Penn oil regardles of camshafts available.

If you want to believe that the flat is A better choice for performance... we all know thats not the fact, maybe that is wrong maybe more don't know the benefits of the roller and faster opening and closing rates.
Faster ramps in and out makes all the difference.. ESPECIALLY for a street car that would benefit largely from that style cam

Preference is a term best used when deciding colors, I prefer gray over black since i don't want to wash it everyday, preferring a cam with less performance when building performance is a bad place for preference. A flat is not better than a roller, not a preference but a fact.
How can you get pissed or heated with a fact or truth

 

[Supershafts]

Maybe some of us want to keep with the old school ideas.

Nothing wrong with a good old purple shaft.

Not for 1970, you're right the purple cam was great, this isn't 1970 anymore why would you want something that is missing 40 years of performance advantages?

Take a look at old school vs all the new performance advantages now

 

[67 B-body]

If you want to believe that the flat is A better choice for performance... we all know thats not the fact, maybe that is wrong maybe more don't know the benefits of the roller and faster opening and closing rates.
Faster ramps in and out makes all the difference.. ESPECIALLY for a street car that would benefit largely from that style cam

Preference is a term best used when deciding colors, I prefer gray over black since i don't want to wash it everyday, preferring a cam with less performance when building performance is a bad place for preference. A flat is not better than a roller, not a preference but a fact.
How can you get pissed or heated with a fact or truth

Re-read,,, no one said a flat is better than roller.....
Why are you heated? I hadn't read a single post replying to you that seemed like anyone was pissed or heated, but as I stated it's a good way to get someone in that position.
Get your **** strait before arguing with others,,, escpecialy when others are trying to avoid argumentitive posts...
Move along now...

 

[Supershafts]

Im not arguing, you said preference for a cam...and preference of a cam for how a cam performs.
Which lead to why have a preference for less performance when building performance.
Or
Why have preference for a cam lacking performance.

Seems its all money related

 

[67 B-body]

Im not arguing, you said preference for a cam...and preference of a cam for how a cam performs.
Which lead to why have a preference for less performance when building performance.
Or
Why have preference for a cam lacking performance.

Seems its all money related

You win,,,, your right,,,,,, every other option is the wrong option!
How could we all have been so mistaken???