Breaking in cam and lifters

[Aron Gleason]

When trying to break in a new cam and lifters my headers are glowing red. I don't know where the total timing is at with the new cam and lifters and timing chain. I've put in bigger jets in the primary side cause my plugs look as if I just took them out of the box. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[steve340]

The headers will get quite hot and possibly glow red even if the timing is close. If a little off they will glow red for sure.
If it is starting and running OK just break the cam in in bursts until you can get to the point you can idle for a short time.

 

[Aron Gleason]

The headers will get quite hot and possibly glow red even if the timing is close. If a little off they will glow red for sure.
If it is starting and running OK just break the cam in in bursts until you can get to the point you can idle for a short time.

In bursts??? What do you mean by that?

 

[Aron Gleason]

And is it possible the distributor is retarded with the new cam? The timing with the old cam was 36 total.

 

[steve340]

Run the motor for a short time - maybe 3 or 4 minutes at a time until you get to the required break in time.

 

[Aron Gleason]

Run the motor for a short time - maybe 3 or 4 minutes at a time until you get to the required break in time.

Oh gotcha.

 

[R413]

Mark 36 degrees BTDC on the balancer and time to that mark while it is running at 2500 RPM.

 

[Aron Gleason]

Mark 36 degrees BTDC on the balancer and time to that mark while it is running at 2500 RPM.

How would I know where 36° is at on the balancer?

 

[1967coronet]

It is to far retarded you need to advance, you can just twist it a bit while it's running.
Idle should increase and glowing headers should cool down.
It's burning fuel in the header pipes.

 

[Rebelrouser]

Yep, I agree timing is most likely retarded, on my dyno header temps will go up if timing is way slow. I see normal 1200-to-1300-degree exhaust temps on a well-tuned engine about 1 inch from the flange. When they get to about 1600 the tube will start to glow.

 

[RemCharger]

Iirc it was about 2 3/4" ? Don't have a balancer or timing tape in front of me

 

[Daves69]

How would I know where 36° is at on the balancer?

I do believe it's approximately 1/16" per ° for a 7-1/4" diameter balancer.

MP ........

 

[Unkle Krusty]

My degree wheel, is about the same size as the crank pulley. So marking the pulley is fairly easy, and degree wheels are fairly cheap.

 

[RemCharger]

I do believe it's approximately 1/16" per ° for a 7-1/4" diameter balancer.

MP ........

View attachment 1843831

Perfect anywhere between 2 1/4- 23/8 with a stock head, you're good

 

[dan juhasz]

Run the motor for a short time - maybe 3 or 4 minutes at a time until you get to the required break in time.

Isn’t the break in period dependent on getting the metals actually up to a certain temp? Wouldn’t 3 or 4 minute runs defeat that?

 

[Aron Gleason]

Isn’t the break in period dependent on getting the metals actually up to a certain temp? Wouldn’t 3 or 4 minute runs defeat that?

I was told of the 10 10 10 method

 

[Kern Dog]

I have had engines run hot during a cam break in and limited the sessions to 10 minutes of run time, a brief cool down, 10 minutes again of run time, etc.
I go the full 30 minutes collectively if the engine runs hot. Cam break in during Summer months usually requires that around here even with electric house fans pushing air toward the radiator.