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Broke my 7UP Pop Machine today....

Vent frame and glass snugged into it's proper position
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Door skin covered with bubble wrap.
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Track post in it's "in/out" adjuster plate.
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Door glass "regulator" ready to put in
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Glass all the way down.
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Glass all the way up.
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Everything stripped back out of the door and back in the box. Body by Biggs here we come...
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Eleven hours of work to make everything fit and work in the door. Hopefully it goes on the car and everything lines up nice with minimal grinding and gap welding.
 
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Time to trial fit the vent frame and door glass.
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Almost forgot the lower track "foot" post from the old door.
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Track foot post out of the OE door.
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Where it goes.
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Allen keyed socket head screw and it's attachment block.
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Drops in here to hold the vent frame.
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Vent frame and door glass going in as an assembly.
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Top bolt hole punched too high up the door. Can't get a socket on the forkin bolt.
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Another grind to fit, making sure I leave enough for the cover plug to hide it.
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Perfect.
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Thank you for this Wayne! This gives me more reason to keep original parts to use or refurbish.
 
Then I call George this evening and ask if he has 20 feet of floor space ready and he says "not this week, maybe next week?"! DANG !!!

Guess I'll load her into the trailer and leave it in the hangar so she's ready to go when he calls. Then I can get to work on tidying up the '66 for a few days and then a few months working on and building a new rear end for the '64. I've got a large stack of boxes full of parts for it.
 
As noted earlier... an absolutely wonderful and generous offer showed up today from Tom @moparsaver . Not only has he refused anything for the NOS parts, he won't take the $50US it cost to mail them either! Stuff like this just makes the time spent here that much more worthwhile!!

Postage is nuts. Light box from MA to me, $50 US.
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Sticker says it all.
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NOS Plymouth decal, in the sealed box. 2 of them!
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Shipped back in the day from Denver to Washington State for 70 cents
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NOS nose seal still in the plastic bag.
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Punch card showing it originally shipped out of Mississauga Ontario in 1970!
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3571162 Seal Fro(nt)
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Cuff links need a clean up, but still cool original 1968/69/70 "customer appreciation" items.
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Says it all.. advised this was a sticker done around '74
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So the remote mirrors interior hole issue may have been solved.

Thanks to @Charles Cook for the "hole" picture..
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And a big THANKS to @chtampa for taking the time to dig this out and take some pictures. Locking plate goes behind the door panel, the remote knob head goes into it to lock it in place. The tab goes in the small hole and the bezel "nut" is recessed in the back to clear the tab.
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Now to see what I have for a bezel nut and if it's correct with the recess in the back and we'll go from there. If so I'll get the extra hole drilled before paint happens.
 
There's just no place else like FBBO and the never ending generosity and comradery of its members. Pretty refreshing in the selfish rip-off world we live in today. This forum is the complete exception of all of that. I couldn't be happier I stumbled on to it some 10 years ago while searching the planet for parts to restore the X. Thank you and God bless to all who make it what it is!
 
There's just no place else like FBBO and the never ending generosity and comradery of its members. Pretty refreshing in the selfish rip-off world we live in today. This forum is the complete exception of all of that. I couldn't be happier I stumbled on to it some 10 years ago while searching the planet for parts to restore the X. Thank you and God bless to all who make it what it is!
X2, I was fortunate to find it myself.
 
Lock pull hole on original door.
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Lock pull hole on reproduction hole. Will have to see how the chrome bezel and window sweeps sit to determine if it needs to be moved inboard and then welded up a tad.
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Original door skins of course spot welded to the interior shell. Nice wide overlap flange.
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Reproduction door skins MIG'd in place. Will need to be dressed/cleaned up before paint.
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Side by each for a full comparison. Then I have to test fit every original door piece before I deliver the car and door to Body by Biggs.

Upper hinge bolt hole is missing on the new door shell and it appears the one that they did punch is too close to the outside of the door. Threaded "bolt" plate that is behind said holes seems to be in the correct place... so it should all work out.
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Pattern off the door at the A pillar and windshield cowling area.
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Damn close on the reproduction.
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Need to dolly the area up a bit where the window frame slides in, as it needs to be straight and that'll bring the "detent" up into place.
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Original is nice and straight.
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Reproduction dips down... SHOULD be an easy adjustment.
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Looks like the lock knob hole will have to be moved. I suspect that the knob bezel will overhang the edge...
 
All I managed to do today, in between plowing snow from 9:30AM to 12:30 and again from 3:30 to 7PM, but it's another step towards the goal line.
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No, to straighten up the remote knob. You don't like it too warm. You're working too hard. lol
 
No, to straighten up the remote knob. You don't like it too warm. You're working too hard. lol
I knew what you meant... heated to shop temperature vs the 20F or so outside. No I didn't put a torch on it... didn't want the chrome messed up. Guess I could have throw it in the oven, but threw caution to the wind. No issues.
 
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