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Broken torsion bar adjuster bolts *HELP*

J

Jimijross

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While trying to use the adjusting bolts for my torsion bars, both adjusting bolts snapped off. Is there a way to unload the bars so I can remove the adjusters? I havent seen any tools online either for this purpose. Only tools to help pull the bars out. Any ideas?

- - - Updated - - -

I'm guessing the only safe way is to lower the lower control arm etc.
 
I have not heard of anything you could use to get the bolts out as the car sits. If I was stuck at that point, I believe I would, in this order:
- remove the tie rod from the lower ball joint
- remove the strut rod
- separate the lower ball joint from the spindle...being fully aware that it is under pressure and may cause the lower control arm to travel downward with significant force. In other words keep clear of its trajectory.

Once the tension is relieved, I would remove the control arm. With all this done, you 'should be able to remove the torsion bar...which will allow you to remove the adjustment key. Then you can work on getting the busted bolt out by putting the barrel nut in a vice. If I'm off on my thought process, or there is a step I have missed, somebody please chime in.
 
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You cant remove the strut rod with the torsion bar still loaded as the lca can not be moved backwards.

Get the weight off the front end, and drill the broken bolt for an easy out. Hopefully that will work.
 
I don't remember anything really limiting the downward travel except the upper control arm (bumper) and the shock. I'd jack it up, remove either of the ball joints and shock and I'd think it would be able to relax. If they broke off with a wrench I doubt an easy out will do it, I'd cut the adjusters off to where the threaded plate can be pulled out and put in a drill press because they won't drill to easy especially laying on your back. Good luck
 
Liquid wrench. Jack it up till front tires are off the ground put on jack stands and slowly melt the adjusting bolt down till all pressure has been released from torsion bars and remove the adjuster. Replace with new parts. Do not cut the bolt off, melt it out.
 
Anti-seize won't hurt a thing.

Where are the bolts broken at? Did they snap at the block they screw into?
Might try some penetrating oil, give it some time, and try breaking them loose. Jacking up on the lower control arms will take a little tension off the bars.

Any rate...there will be alot of tension on the bars. Be carefull how you go about it.
 
I had this happen on one of mine. I was able to get mine out without ripping the front end apart. Just jacked up the front end. I put anti seize on all of them now, and only turn them in when there is no load on them.
 
Agree with Hunt2elk. I had one break on me but basically the whole bolt sheared all it's threads. I saw my life flash before and the car from underneath felt like it was going to bounce on top of me. Didn't help there was a loud boom of the bolt shearing. Learned quick to read the FSM for recommended procedures, in this case do not make adjustments with load on the bolt.
 
Sorry. I was assuming all knew not to try turning the adjuster bolt...in either direction...without jacking the car (relieving pressure) first.

I see several other comments posted, but not much on the specifics (step-by-step) on how you were able to get your broken bolts out. I think that would be helpful to not only the original poster, but to anyone (myself included) as to 'exactly' what you did to get the bolt out.

These posts are the kind that will be useful and sought out, years from now.
 
The seating nut of the adjusting bolt sit's in a half-moon slot cut into the LCA's. As long as that isn't loaded up by the opposite side of that armature arm, you should be able to swing the bolt/seating nut so it slides right out of the slot in the LCA, without cutting, burning, chopping anything. If you disconnect the LCA from the spindle, disconnect the strut rod and loosen the pivot shaft, you'd think you'd be unloaded and able to slide the broken bolt/seating nut out.
 
miller said:
Anti-seize won't hurt a thing.

Where are the bolts broken at? Did they snap at the block they screw into?
Might try some penetrating oil, give it some time, and try breaking them loose. Jacking up on the lower control arms will take a little tension off the bars.

Any rate...there will be alot of tension on the bars. Be carefull how you go about it.
Click to expand...

Actually, jacking up on the lower control arm 'adds' pressure to the torsion bar. In doing so you are mimicking the weight of the vehicle. Now, jacking on the lower control arm may help to control the 'sprung' downward force when the lower ball joint is separated...providing the force doesn't spit the jack out.
 
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I still don't understand why people don't have FSM's (Field Service Manual) for this stuff!? They are not that expensive and are not that hard to find. Even a Motor's manual helps and will pay for itself in most cases after the first or second use! Anyways....you should be able to get away with pulling the rebound stop (the one on top under the upper arm) and pulling the shock too like was mentioned earlier. This should almost unload the torsion bar and it shouldn't have a whole lot of loading at this point. I've disconnected the lower ball joints like this before and things didn't move very much once the ball joint broke loose. Trick is to get the ball loose. You can usually loosen the ball joint nut one turn or so then 'body work' the area about the ball joint stud to get it to pop loose then take the ball joint stud nut the rest of the way off. I've done it this way many times with good results. Always clean as much crud off of bolt threads as you can and use plenty of lube before turning the stuff....and letting the penetrating oil soak in is usually always a plus.

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Dako said:
Sorry. I was assuming all knew not to try turning the adjuster bolt...in either direction...without jacking the car (relieving pressure) first.

I see several other comments posted, but not much on the specifics (step-by-step) on how you were able to get your broken bolts out. I think that would be helpful to not only the original poster, but to anyone (myself included) as to 'exactly' what you did to get the bolt out.

These posts are the kind that will be useful and sought out, years from now.
Click to expand...
Never assume people know how to work on this stuff. There are many that are not that educated in things automotive and even the ones that are have never worked on a front end before. :)
 
I do have an FSM and had the car up off the ground the even sprayed the $hit out of the bolts for a week and they still snapped right off. Anyway I was pissed off at them snapping off so I pulled out the grinder and cut them off. I would have torched em off if I had a torch. Anyway I replaced them with fine threaded ones with antiseize. I've even had them off again since for a complete front end bushing, ball joint and tie rod replacement. All is ready for alignment now
 
Well I got it off, actually pretty easy. I removed tie rod, sway bar and UCA. Used a jack to hold the LCA in case it went flying but I kept the nut on the upper ball joint and it can apart smooth. Then just lowered the LCA with the jack and had to grind the edges off the adjuster "nut" to wiggle it out. Thanks everyone for the replies!
 
Dako said:
Actually, jacking up on the lower control arm 'adds' pressure to the torsion bar. In doing so you are mimicking the weight of the vehicle. Now, jacking on the lower control arm may help to control the 'sprung' downward force when the lower ball joint is separated...providing the force doesn't spit the jack out.
Click to expand...

Senior moment...over-thinking things.
 
Kernel Sanders said:
I do have an FSM and had the car up off the ground the even sprayed the $hit out of the bolts for a week and they still snapped right off. Anyway I was pissed off at them snapping off so I pulled out the grinder and cut them off. I would have torched em off if I had a torch. Anyway I replaced them with fine threaded ones with antiseize. I've even had them off again since for a complete front end bushing, ball joint and tie rod replacement. All is ready for alignment now
Click to expand...
Never seen anything but fine thread on those....
 
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