Can't get full throttle with my pedal any ideas????

[451Mopar]

The linkage is set so both work simultaneously, the front opens as the back opens. The cable does not hit the bracket so there is enough room for full throttle there as I can push to WOT at the carbs , it's that the pedal hits the floor before WOT can happen. need more arc in the pivot. The bolts look long but plenty of clearance. As mentioned in the post, kick down was not cut and adjusted in this photo. Thanks for all the tips.

With the dual carb setup, the bar connecting the two throttle shafts are at different distances from the pivot point, so the front carb will open faster than the rear carb the way it is setup, which may be what you want for slower tip-in, but then the lower rod would have to be able to slide (not be fixed), and the stop on the rod would have to be adjusted when both carbs are at WOT. If the lower rod is fixed or the stop adjusted at idle, the front carb will hit WOT and prevent the second carb from opening all the way.

 

[vanrj1]

With the dual carb setup, the bar connecting the two throttle shafts are at different distances from the pivot point, so the front carb will open faster than the rear carb the way it is setup, which may be what you want for slower tip-in, but then the lower rod would have to be able to slide (not be fixed), and the stop on the rod would have to be adjusted when both carbs are at WOT. If the lower rod is fixed or the stop adjusted at idle, the front carb will hit WOT and prevent the second carb from opening all the way.

Thanks for that info.... What would be optimal setting for mostly street driving with a periodic "punch to the floor" now and then?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

WOT is my favorite setting:headbang:

 

[vanrj1]

WOT is my favorite setting:headbang:

If I had a 1200hp and 1 cat powered engine in my car that would be my setting as well! Does that radiator keep the sucker cool?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I have 2 cats in the go-rage and the car runs 180 ish unless it's over 90*.

 

[vanrj1]

I have 2 cats in the go-rage and the car runs 180 ish unless it's over 90*.

no worries of mice in your cars! I use rodent repellent bags in mine.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

your problem is the rear throttle cable bracket. It's not allowing you to get WOT,its too close to the end of the lokar cable.Also put the front throttle linkage back in the top hole. I think you need to get a different throttle cable bracket. personally I don't like that carb linkage setup at all.

- - - Updated - - -

trying to see if I have any more pics for you.

 

[vanrj1]

your problem is the rear throttle cable bracket. It's not allowing you to get WOT,its too close to the end of the lokar cable.Also put the front throttle linkage back in the top hole. I think you need to get a different throttle cable bracket. personally I don't like that carb linkage setup at all.

- - - Updated - - -

trying to see if I have any more pics for you.

I could see if I could put rod at the top of front carb. Regarding the mount, the cable can reach WOT without hitting the bracket so I think that is fine. It functions well so I think it will work with more arc at the pedal. Thanks for your input.

 

[451Mopar]

I looked up the Edelbrock linkage you have and it can be hooked up 1:1 (Using the top hole on both carbs) and that will allow each carb to open at the same time, which would be good for a race car. The way you have it setup is a progressive opening where the engine is really running on the rear carb for about the first 1/4 throttle. This is how you would want a street car setup, but you need to adjust the stop on the lower rod when both carbs are at WOT, then at idle the stop on the lower rod will be forward, not touching the bar connecting the bars. This way, only the rear throttle blades open for about 1/4 throttle, then the lower rod stop contacts the bar and open the front carb until both are at WOT at the same time. You can adjust the linkage /stop separate from the throttle cable. Anyhow, make sure you can open the rear carb WOT by hand before messing with the throttle cable. For the throttle cable, there are a few different items to check. First it to make sure the cable bracket geometry will allow the carb to be opened to WOT. If the cable connecting point is in-line between the throttle shaft and bracket before WOT, then the bracket or cable connecting point needs to be changed. The next item is throttle pedal travel (how far the pedal pulls the cable.) You can get a bit more travel by bending the pedal linkage, but that will raise the height of the pedal. The other option is to move the cable connecting point closer to the throttle shaft so smaller pedal travel opens the carb quicker.
I have the older Lokar cable kit, and had to drill the throttle lever to mount the cable further forward and lower.

 

[vanrj1]

I looked up the Edelbrock linkage you have and it can be hooked up 1:1 (Using the top hole on both carbs) and that will allow each carb to open at the same time, which would be good for a race car. The way you have it setup is a progressive opening where the engine is really running on the rear carb for about the first 1/4 throttle. This is how you would want a street car setup, but you need to adjust the stop on the lower rod when both carbs are at WOT, then at idle the stop on the lower rod will be forward, not touching the bar connecting the bars. This way, only the rear throttle blades open for about 1/4 throttle, then the lower rod stop contacts the bar and open the front carb until both are at WOT at the same time. You can adjust the linkage /stop separate from the throttle cable. Anyhow, make sure you can open the rear carb WOT by hand before messing with the throttle cable. For the throttle cable, there are a few different items to check. First it to make sure the cable bracket geometry will allow the carb to be opened to WOT. If the cable connecting point is in-line between the throttle shaft and bracket before WOT, then the bracket or cable connecting point needs to be changed. The next item is throttle pedal travel (how far the pedal pulls the cable.) You can get a bit more travel by bending the pedal linkage, but that will raise the height of the pedal. The other option is to move the cable connecting point closer to the throttle shaft so smaller pedal travel opens the carb quicker.
I have the older Lokar cable kit, and had to drill the throttle lever to mount the cable further forward and lower.

Lots of good info, Thanks for taking the time to do that.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

After a few adjustments that linkage should just fine!

 

[vanrj1]

After a few adjustments that linkage should just fine!

X2..... Thanks

 

[vanrj1]

Ok, Got the linkage adjusted and now just need to add more arc to the pedal. I will update after that. Thanks again!!

 

[moparsteve636]

You can go to a suspended accelerator pedal for more pedal travel also!

 

[vanrj1]

You can go to a suspended accelerator pedal for more pedal travel also!

Mine should work with minimal alterations.... Thanks

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

can you go back to your stock throttle cable?
if so go check out www.ARENGINEERING.com and get yourself the correct 1:1 linkage setup,or go to the enderle website or good vibrations website and buy the throttle linkage from them and just the throttle bracket from ARENGINEERING.It would be cheaper than buying its possible your pedal might need a little more arch but I have seen more times than once,its in the linkage itself causing the grief. lokar cables are just a waste of money imo.

 

[vanrj1]

can you go back to your stock throttle cable?
if so go check out www.ARENGINEERING.com and get yourself the correct 1:1 linkage setup,or go to the enderle website or good vibrations website and buy the throttle linkage from them and just the throttle bracket from ARENGINEERING.It would be cheaper than buying its possible your pedal might need a little more arch but I have seen more times than once,its in the linkage itself causing the grief. lokar cables are just a waste of money imo.

Will check that out,,,,,, Thanks

 

[snakeoil24]

If you disconnect the second carb and work on the primary carb, will you get more movement. Then add in the secondary? What if you moved the bracket back further from the rear carb? Sorry i chucked my AFB carbs years ago on hemi so this is all new to me again.

 

[geronimo6970]

throtle cable

I bent the gas pedal rod inside the car that the gas pedal rest on with my 63. I bent it up so it would have more pedal travel as I could not get full throttle until I did that. And I am using a Lokar cable setup. Ron

I had the same exact issues using the same exact cables and mounting brackets you are using on my 65 coronet with a 440 tunnel ram ,, there are two ways to fix the problem the problem is the original cable fits flush to the floor and attaches with a e-clip giving room for the pedal to go all the way to the floor,,, the lokar cable uses the jam nut set up were you nut and washer it tight threw the fire wall that stub sticking threw doesn't let the pedal travel far enough to open the carbs,, first I pulled the inner cable out and ground it all" including the jam nut"
down as thin *** possible to give enough throw for the carbs to open,, but then I opted toe the better fix due to the fact that the clevis that attaches to the pedal still takes up over a 1\4 inch I got a gasser style after market ,, I think it was a cal custom throttle pedal assembly that mounts to the fire wall close to the floor and has adjustable arms and pedal linkages with splined fittings,,, works perfectly,, wide open any time I want,,,

 

[RedHot67]

I had the same problem, use the other hole of the lever right next to it ;o)