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Car Lift.. 2 Post/4 Post? Your Experience

The wife and I have been looking at the Zillow listings for a new place to live in Arizona. We have seen places with workshops with high ceilings, apparently for RV storage. I see those as prime opportunities for a 2 or 4 post lift. I'd gave to test the slab for thickness before I'd trust a 2 post lift to concrete of an unknown depth.
 
The hoist column base can always be sawed out and the area and depth can be whatever you desire. Common practice in factories with heavy machinery.
Mike
 
I have a wildfire and no complaints. Money well spent. I wish I had ordered the trolley jack when I ordered the lift. Inflation has made that unobtainable for me now.

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Good Day All,

Looking to put a lift in my garage. I have 14 foot ceilings. 110 or 220 V power is available.

The purpose is mostly to get the car up out of the way for winter to store items underneath....but also to eventually do some work on the car.

What's your experience with either and what brands/features do you recommend?

Thanks

Macdon221
I've a 9K Challenger asymmetric that I use exclusively for working on stuff and a 10K Bendpac 4 post. The 4 post is storage most of the time, but there've been a few times when I've worked on a car with it. I'm very happy with both of them. Both are well built and stable with a car or truck up in the air.

Working on a car on the 4 post is much more challenging than the 2 post. You're always bending to get under the ramps or cross over beams. Can't tell you how many times I've hit my head. Removing/installing wheels/tires is easier and quicker with the 2 post. Bleeding and adjusting drum brakes is also much easier on the 2 post.

Last summer I was sorting out a gasser with an 8 3/4 under it. Redoing shocks, mounts, leaf springs, etc I had the rear end in and out of the car at least 4 times. Kept thinking how much more difficult that would have been with the 4 post.

I don't like putting a convertible up in the air on the 2 post. I'd done brakes in a C body convertible before getting the 4 post and was shocked by the amount of body flex it exhibited while going up, even with the arms as far forward and backward as I could physically get them. I went and got some tall jack stands and supported the rear end and the front lower control arms with them before I was comfortable leaving the car up in the air for the couple days it took me to complete the job. I wouldn't even attempt it on a rusty convertible.

I've also got a b body convertible and will be putting frame connectors in. Definitely a job for the 4 post lift.

Go with 220V motors. You'll be happy with the speed going up.
 
I have one of each. 4 post is great for oil changes, transmissions, stuff where you need to get in and out of the car while it’s on the lift and obviously storage. I have a bridge jack so you can jack the car but it’s a pain on the old stuff with a lot of suspension travel. Sometimes you have to get creative to get the wheels off. 2 post is better for anything that involves pulling wheels/tires, pulling engines, rear end work, etc. just depends what you want to use it for mainly.

I swap cars out more on the 4 post for what it’s worth. Use it quite a bit. 2 post usually holds my long term projects.

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The wife and I have been looking at the Zillow listings for a new place to live in Arizona. We have seen places with workshops with high ceilings, apparently for RV storage. I see those as prime opportunities for a 2 or 4 post lift. I'd gave to test the slab for thickness before I'd trust a 2 post lift to concrete of an unknown depth.
Over the years, I have found a way to do a backyard test of hardness of concrete. Might just help in your search. Get some masonry nails and try to drive them. Use a 2-pound hammer and if they drive reasonably well you've got 4.5 or 5 bag mix. If they are difficult or next to impossible you've got 6 or 6.5 mix. I've used this test on known batches, and it works. PSIs are something new- like metric thingies. I do use Sakrete for fence posts, but not for BBO posts.
 
If it's mostly parking storage I'd suggest a four post....

Two posts are much better if your working but if your hoping to park a second car under the one in the air realize the suspension is hanging at full extension so the car underneath needs to be fairly short...
 
Good Day All,

Looking to put a lift in my garage. I have 14 foot ceilings. 110 or 220 V power is available.

The purpose is mostly to get the car up out of the way for winter to store items underneath....but also to eventually do some work on the car.

What's your experience with either and what brands/features do you recommend?

Thanks

Macdon221
 
I have seen more lift post lately then ever. I’ve had my 2 post Rotary 10k lift now for 4 years. It’s only been up for 2. I bought it used for $1500, with little use. Great deal. My shop that I built is 35x55. I decided to go with 2 post because my plan has always been to have no more than 2 build cars at one time. It’s worked out Well. I had a 6” thick floor poured for my whole shop. I always wanted Rotary because it’s one of the best and when I was in the trade of auto mechanic for Dodge and that’s what we had, plus there is a factory dealer 35 miles from my house to come and do a check whenever I ask. I can store vehicles in the same space or not. The lift you choose depends on your needs. My best advice is always buy more than you need for weight lift. I have all the lift accessories(and there are many)to do any kind of work.
 
I have a 4 post mainly for storage. I did get the trolley jack also. It came with the caster kit and 3 drip trays also. I added LED strip lights underneath. No need for drop lights when working on something.

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I have 2 4-post hoists on my standard floor, in the back half of my shop. They're for storage and detail cleaning. No issues thus far...

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I've a 9K Challenger asymmetric that I use exclusively for working on stuff and a 10K Bendpac 4 post. The 4 post is storage most of the time, but there've been a few times when I've worked on a car with it. I'm very happy with both of them. Both are well built and stable with a car or truck up in the air.

Working on a car on the 4 post is much more challenging than the 2 post. You're always bending to get under the ramps or cross over beams. Can't tell you how many times I've hit my head. Removing/installing wheels/tires is easier and quicker with the 2 post. Bleeding and adjusting drum brakes is also much easier on the 2 post.

Last summer I was sorting out a gasser with an 8 3/4 under it. Redoing shocks, mounts, leaf springs, etc I had the rear end in and out of the car at least 4 times. Kept thinking how much more difficult that would have been with the 4 post.

I don't like putting a convertible up in the air on the 2 post. I'd done brakes in a C body convertible before getting the 4 post and was shocked by the amount of body flex it exhibited while going up, even with the arms as far forward and backward as I could physically get them. I went and got some tall jack stands and supported the rear end and the front lower control arms with them before I was comfortable leaving the car up in the air for the couple days it took me to complete the job. I wouldn't even attempt it on a rusty convertible.

I've also got a b body convertible and will be putting frame connectors in. Definitely a job for the 4 post lift.

Go with 220V motors. You'll be happy with the speed going up.
Had a 70 440 RT Challenger in the early 80's and talk about a Flexy Flyer! How does that stuff stay together!!? And it wasn't even rusty....
 
Had a 70 440 RT Challenger in the early 80's and talk about a Flexy Flyer! How does that stuff stay together!!? And it wasn't even rusty....
Usually the Hardtop E bodies aren't to bad, especially 440 & Hemi cause they are supposed to get the boxed rocker plates...

My R/T Vert is actually surprisingly stiff... I can open & close both doors at the same time while the car is on a lift... Never any signs of cowl shake when driving on rough roads....

But my other Vert is like a noodle... lotta cowl shake, can't open the doors on the lift, never mind about closing them... I've been gathering parts for a little make over on that car, when it happens I have a set of subframe connectors that will be getting welded in...
 
I like the fiber mesh much stronger. Pored my garage floor six inches thick with bell footers. Pored it in sections three bays. The last one was the middle one. It got cold and was waiting to finish bull floating the floor it did not want to harden. After much time went in for a cup of coffee and came back it had set. Oh well things happen! But it was level just did not get to broom finish it. Getting too old now for those kinds of projects.
 
Usually the Hardtop E bodies aren't to bad, especially 440 & Hemi cause they are supposed to get the boxed rocker plates...

My R/T Vert is actually surprisingly stiff... I can open & close both doors at the same time while the car is on a lift... Never any signs of cowl shake when driving on rough roads....

But my other Vert is like a noodle... lotta cowl shake, can't open the doors on the lift, never mind about closing them... I've been gathering parts for a little make over on that car, when it happens I have a set of subframe connectors that will be getting welded in...
What I was seeing was windshield header shake. Maybe something was playing games with my eyes but I could feel the car was much different than my hardtop was. I even tried leaning forward in the hardtop and looking up and didn't see what I was seeing with the vert.
Getting too old now for those kinds of projects.
Oh man....dad and I built my shop by ourselves in late 86 (a guy that was supposed to help never showed up)! It's 28x52 with a home built truss every other joist on 24" centers. He was 65 at the time and I was 35 and now I can understand why he didn't want to be up on top for very long. He was up there with me to get the ridge board set up and once that was done, he never came up again lol. When I was 65 it wasn't too bad to be up on the roof but now.....no way. And I used to could walk on a bare frame of a house like I was walking on a sidewalk. I'm 72 and don't even want to get up on a roof now....not even a flat one!
 
What I was seeing was windshield header shake. Maybe something was playing games with my eyes but I could feel the car was much different than my hardtop was. I even tried leaning forward in the hardtop and looking up and didn't see what I was seeing with the vert.
Yeah, not surprising... Actually the only one that surprises me is no flexi-flyer with my R/T vert...
 
I bought a used 9k two post in 1996..its a Weaver. 1" thick steel....3" hyd cylinders. Leaf chain and roller chains... no wimpy cables.

$1800.

Weighs about 900#'s.

I have had my F350 dually on it...and my E350 loaded with 3000#'s of steel castings..

It sits on 4" of 6 bag mix concrete with fiber mesh added. No rebar...no wire.

After 27 years of good service no cracks or issues with the concrete despite all the scary predictions.

If you want peace of mind don't buy a cheap China lift.

YMMV.
 
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I have a 4 post Direct Lift - Pro Park 8S They have a great calculator to make sure your space will fit - Ceiling Height Calculator
This lift only takes 110v and I use it both to get my Charger up and out of the way and work on it. You can do most everything on a 4 post and you can add on a hydraulic jack to get the tires in the air.
 
I bought a used 9k two post in 1996..its a Weaver. 1" thick steel....3" hyd cylinders. Leaf chain no wimpy cables.

Weighs about 900#'s.

I have had my F350 dually on it...an E350 loaded with 3000#'s steel castings..

It sits on 4" of 6 bag mix concrete with fiber mesh added. No rebar or...no wire.

After 27 years of good service no cracks or issues with the concrete despite all the scary predictions.

If you want peace of mind don't buy a cheap China lift.

YMMV.

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