- Local time
- 3:46 PM
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
- 19,370
- Reaction score
- 37,867
- Location
- State of insanity
Cleanliness is paramount in a carb rebuild. Did you ensure the idle air bleed holes are not clogged or blocked ?
Carburetor running rich after rebuild
- Thread starter gthumb
- Start date
gthumb
Active Member
Not entirely certain the problem is only with the idle circuit per se. The main issue is the bluish exhaust and the fouling of the plugs - conditions I am attributing to a rich fuel condition.
As an aside, what test could be performed of the carburetor to ensure it is functioning properly? There is a scarcity of shops that do carburetor work here in my area. We seem to be a dying breed.
gthumb
Active Member
No, I did not specifically ensure that the idle air bleed holes were not clogged or blocked. I will try to do that. What is the best way to do so? Spray carb cleaner through them, or run a thin wire through the channel. Holley does not recommend the wire route, as they say it could damage the interior of the passage
- Local time
- 3:46 PM
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
- 19,370
- Reaction score
- 37,867
- Location
- State of insanity
Spray, don't wire it.
gthumb
Active Member
OK, will do.
You're CLUELESS as to how a Holley functions if you think a blown/leaky PV won't affect idle....
Last edited:
gthumb
Active Member
Do you have to remove the small set screws in the air bleed holes? There are 4 on either side of the carb, and the outside ones appear to have set screws with larger internal passages, whereas the inner ones have set screws with very small passages. Carb cleaner goes freely through the air bleed holes with the bigger passages.
Should I remove those set screws, and how are they removed? Greatly appreciated.
Yes, if you're spraying cleaner through the passages, remove the bleeds. Those you can put a wire through to make sure they're clear.
Wear your eye protection!
gthumb
Active Member
what do you use to remove the bleeds?
An allen wrench...
Maybe I assumed too much from other posts that you had removable bleeds. If they don't have a hex top , then they aren't removable and you will have to spray though them. Not a big problem; but the best way then is to spray from the body side (metering blocks removed).
Wear your eye protection!
- Local time
- 3:46 PM
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
- 19,370
- Reaction score
- 37,867
- Location
- State of insanity
Theres two holes inside each venturi. The idle air bleed hole is on the outside.
@gthumb here is a good general reference for what hole goes where
(sorry, it's kinda blurry I know..)
(sorry, it's kinda blurry I know..)
- Local time
- 3:46 PM
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
- 19,370
- Reaction score
- 37,867
- Location
- State of insanity
No. If that's yours in the picture, it's a vacuum secondary.
Yes to do it properly it should be running.
You should be quick while doing it, and a bit may dribble out while doing it.
I wonder if you had the correct stack of gaskets for the secondary metering plate. For a vacuum secondary 3310 by the looks of it
I recently had a Holley doing this on my Vette. Note the hole down in the base plate known as the spark port. Fuel was running out of them and the transition slot and soaking the bottom of the base plate. Everything above the bottom of the base plate was staying dry.
This was on my bench. I filled the bowls up through the vent to the bottom of the bowl view port so fuel pressure, needle and seat and float setting had nothing to do with it. I took the bowl and meter block off and vacuum checked the PV which was new. It was fine. I removed the PV and discovered I had installed 2 gaskets on it, they were apparently stuck together. I then checked the metering block for flatness (it was flat) and verified the gasket to the main body that I had installed a few weeks before was identical to the one that had been on it for a couple of decades (it was). I applied a thin coat of transmission assembly lube to both sides of the same gasket and reinstalled everything, refilled the bowl to the bottom of the side view port and let it sit over night. Didn’t leak a drop and the car started OK when I reinstalled it. All I can figure is the extra gasket on the PV created a leak or the metering block gasket was somehow not sealing although the screws were well tightened.
Holleys can be a weird duck. Sometimes you just have to pull them apart and put them back together again to get them to work.
This was on my bench. I filled the bowls up through the vent to the bottom of the bowl view port so fuel pressure, needle and seat and float setting had nothing to do with it. I took the bowl and meter block off and vacuum checked the PV which was new. It was fine. I removed the PV and discovered I had installed 2 gaskets on it, they were apparently stuck together. I then checked the metering block for flatness (it was flat) and verified the gasket to the main body that I had installed a few weeks before was identical to the one that had been on it for a couple of decades (it was). I applied a thin coat of transmission assembly lube to both sides of the same gasket and reinstalled everything, refilled the bowl to the bottom of the side view port and let it sit over night. Didn’t leak a drop and the car started OK when I reinstalled it. All I can figure is the extra gasket on the PV created a leak or the metering block gasket was somehow not sealing although the screws were well tightened.
Holleys can be a weird duck. Sometimes you just have to pull them apart and put them back together again to get them to work.
through the vacuum port that blew out the pv in the first place.
gthumb
Active Member
Yes, you are correct. It is a vacuum secondary. I am somewhat of a novice, and used the wrong terminology. Which gasket exactly are you describing? The one between the metering block and the main body of the carb?
Similar threads
