Center link rubs oil pan

[beanhead]

Dangit. I'm having a similar issue. My pan is the milodon stock replacement style and I always had only about 1/4" clearance, but hey whatever clearance is clearance! After removing and installing the engine this last time the drag link was just touching the pan....I'm thinking it was the point at which I tightened all the mounts down as there is a little adjustment play there...didn't catch that. I'll be watching it closely this time(engine's currently out).

 

[Fran Blacker]

Running into similar situation on the red GTX. Centerlink is hitting the Miloden 7 quart pan at full lock right turn. It actually pushes the engine forward an inch or so. The steering would go left 2 and a half turns from center. Then 2 turns right from center. Well that was an alignment issue and an alignment was done. The center link still hits the pan and still shoves the engine forward. On another note just installed new upper control arms. But that should have nothing to do with it since it was doing it before.



Did you change an idler arm or a pitman arm. The center link looks like it goes down at an angle after turning the wheel. Not up on wedge engine mounts, is it possible to bolt the brackets that attach to the block are on the front of the block ears and should be on the rear side of the block ears? Was putting a hemi in my dodge pass side mount was to far forward couldn't get motor mount studs in. Duh put rubber insulator 180 degrees out.

Look for my comment in your post above I mixed it in with it, why? So expand your post, to read.

 

[halojumper]

Which 6 quart pan hits?
This is a repro HEMI pan from Mancini.

View attachment 395056 View attachment 395057

I know this is an old thread. The center link will not bolt up to the pitman arm, or idlerarm. It is dead against the oil pan which is a stock pan. Maybe it's a motor mount problem. I have the motor sitting on a U.S.Car tool k stand. It is a big block 383. Inspected the idler arm bracket, and it is not bent. The car was originally a small block, and I know center links are the same as a big block, with the exception of the slant six. The car is a 1967 Belvedere 2. I might add the motor mounts might have to come out. I noticed the bolts on the back of the mount is touching the block on left, and right sides of the engine.

 

[khryslerkid]

I know this is an old thread. The center link will not bolt up to the pitman arm, or idlerarm. It is dead against the oil pan which is a stock pan. Maybe it's a motor mount problem. I have the motor sitting on a U.S.Car tool k stand. It is a big block 383. Inspected the idler arm bracket, and it is not bent. The car was originally a small block, and I know center links are the same as a big block, with the exception of the slant six. The car is a 1967 Belvedere 2. I might add the motor mounts might have to come out. I noticed the bolts on the back of the mount is touching the block on left, and right sides of the engine.

The center link isn't backwards is it?

 

[halojumper]

The center link isn't backwards is it?

No, it is not. I have actually tried it backwards, and , of course it won't work. I keep thinking that the oil pan might be suspect. Carolina machine says they use a stock oil pan. I'm not banging on them though. It's just a weird situation.

 

[Kern Dog]

I was reading another Mopar Action magazine article and they were replacing a 402 4 quart pan with a 6 quart aftermarket pan. The center link hit and they had to dent the pan.
They admitted to buying the pan from a vendor on ebay. This means that while it may look like an original factory pan, it could be a reproduction or just an aftermarket version that looks similar to stock.

 

[halojumper]

I was reading another Mopar Action magazine article and they were replacing a 402 4 quart pan with a 6 quart aftermarket pan. The center link hit and they had to dent the pan.
They admitted to buying the pan from a vendor on ebay. This means that while it may look like an original factory pan, it could be a reproduction or just an aftermarket version that looks similar to stock.

I will probably have to hunt up a stock pan. I'm sure Carolina Machine most likely put a repro on it. I'm not blaming them though.

 

[440 4 speed]

A C-body 187 pan will work fine, just a different shape .

 

[halojumper]

A C-body 187 pan will work fine, just a different shape .

I will go with whatever works. I hate the idea of dinging up a pan to make it fit thanks.

 

[khryslerkid]

No, it is not. I have actually tried it backwards, and , of course it won't work. I keep thinking that the oil pan might be suspect. Carolina machine says they use a stock oil pan. I'm not banging on them though. It's just a weird situation.

Here's some specs on some oil pans...

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/OilPanSchematics.html

 

[halojumper]

I checked shumacher, and 440 source for a possible replacement. Thanks

 

[67belvedere/225]

Don't know if anyone suggested this shim the trans mount?

its a good I deal but changing drive shaft angles can /will cause vibration

 

[halojumper]

A C-body 187 pan will work fine, just a different shape .

I have three different oil pans, and the effing center link still hits. I changed motor mounts. Like i said the whole works is sitting on a UScartool k stand. I dont know what to do. This is just frustrating. I have a c body oil pan from 440 source, and it still hits, no it sits tight right on the oil pan. I changed idler arm(moog) no resolution. It just seems that the pitman arm, and idler are not right, but they are the correct parts for a 1967 b body. I'm ready to load it full of C4.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I have a 66 plymouth belvedere Kmember out back and I believe all of the steering is original to the the old car it came from. However it was a 318 Poly car. But a V8 Kmember none the less. If you would like I can take pictures of the pitman and idler arms.

 

[halojumper]

I have a 66 plymouth belvedere Kmember out back and I believe all of the steering is original to the the old car it came from. However it was a 318 Poly car. But a V8 Kmember none the less. If you would like I can take pictures of the pitman and idler arms.

If that wouldn't be a problem I would appreciate that very much.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Here are the pitman and idler arms I think the part numbers are readable.

 

[EARLY B]

I have three different oil pans, and the effing center link still hits. I changed motor mounts. Like i said the whole works is sitting on a UScartool k stand. I dont know what to do. This is just frustrating. I have a c body oil pan from 440 source, and it still hits, no it sits tight right on the oil pan. I changed idler arm(moog) no resolution. It just seems that the pitman arm, and idler are not right, but they are the correct parts for a 1967 b body. I'm ready to load it full of C4.

 

[EARLY B]

I have three different oil pans, and the effing center link still hits. I changed motor mounts. Like i said the whole works is sitting on a UScartool k stand. I dont know what to do. This is just frustrating. I have a c body oil pan from 440 source, and it still hits, no it sits tight right on the oil pan. I changed idler arm(moog) no resolution. It just seems that the pitman arm, and idler are not right, but they are the correct parts for a 1967 b body. I'm ready to load it full of C4.

When you bolt it into the car check and see if it hits. The angle of the back side of k frame will change when bolted in.

 

[halojumper]

Thanks for the pix. I appreciate that. I found part of the problem. As you know my engine/trans is sitting on a uscartool k stand. I noticed the transmission has a tail down attitude that might be affecting fitment of the center link. In pursuit of shiny stuff I had the k member powder coated, and after looking at the tapered portion of the bracket where the idler arm goes into it was powder coated. After cleaning the taper out carefully with a file the idler arm dropped into position, and allowed everything to clear

 

[Warhorse]

I'm going thru my post history and trying to update. My tie rod-rubbling-oil pan issue was solved by changing the steering arm back to stock. The one I was using came with the steering gearbox that may have been for a faster ratio (i.e. Police).