needacheaperhob
Well-Known Member
Thank you. I'll look into how to switch that out, but rhat won't stop the leak will it? I'll still need to change the rear main seal?A high pressure spring in the oil pump. an easy change. plus to thick oii
Thank you. I'll look into how to switch that out, but rhat won't stop the leak will it? I'll still need to change the rear main seal?A high pressure spring in the oil pump. an easy change. plus to thick oii
can't hurt the leak. but no good can come with all that pressure.Thank you. I'll look into how to switch that out, but rhat won't stop the leak will it? I'll still need to change the rear main seal?
Been out there a few hours, everything is tight. So it appears it the main seal.
My oil pressure gauge is showing at 75-80 when warm.
Well, buy my dream car after all these years and its goinf to have to sit for a while. Gotta love it! LoL
If engine was rebuilt 750 miles ago and you are leaking oil, take it back to the guy that did the rebuild and have him fix it! unless of course that guy was YOU!!Hi, I have a '69 road runner (383 4 spd) with the 4 qt oil pan. I noticed a very small drip at the back of the pan so I was going to drop it and switch out the gasket but then remembered seeing something on here about a 6 qt oil pan is actually better for these engines than the 4 qt due to the pickup or something along those lines?
Could someone confirm if this is true as I'd just go to the 6 qt pan since I'm going to remove it to switch the gasket anyways.
The car is not used for racing, 383 was rebuilt around 750 miles ago.
Thank you
I'll try that. Switchbto a lower weight and see.‘Warm’ oil pressure should read 40-45 psi under normal cruising. Any chance it’s got 5+ qrts. added? Also, high viscosity could increase. I seem to recall oil weights dropping due to improved formulas and additives. I used to run 20W-50 in my 383 RR, but switched to a more moderate 10W-20 (North Carolina) 7-qt. Moroso pan. Max temp 180° - but replaced radiator at same time so….? Good luck!