Center link rubs oil pan

[440 Source]

Friends,
Just noticed the center link on my Charger is rubbing (slightly) on my 6-Qt oil pan. Wondering if I can shim the center link or find a dropped center link. Shimming the motor mounts is NOT an option since hood clearance is already minimal. Ideas?

Here's the solution:

Dropped Centerlink - 1962-70 B Body

 

[khryslerkid]

Here's the solution:

Dropped Centerlink - 1962-70 B Body

I didn't know this item was available. A day late and a dollar short. For about the same price that I paid for a Moroso nos 971 pan that worked, it would have been a lot easier to swap the center link than the pan.

Post in thread 'Taking Up New Residence' Taking Up New Residence

Thanks 440 Source

 

[Black_Sheep]

The pan I used has an offset in the back side of the sump for center link clearance...

 

[khryslerkid]

The pan I used has an offset in the back side of the sump for center link clearance...

View attachment 1724802

The center link normally has the clearance issue because of the height of the back section of the pan. Mainly the early B bodies.

Check the link in post #42

 

[Kern Dog]

Here's the solution:

Dropped Centerlink - 1962-70 B Body

That is an excellent idea. Thanks for making this an option.

I didn't know this item was available. A day late and a dollar short. For about the same price that I paid for a Moroso nos 971 pan that worked, it would have been a lot easier to swap the center link than the pan.

You will need to factor in the cost of a front end alignment after swapping the center link. Caster and Camber will be the same but the toe will change. When I had the Fast Ratio steering arms, the longer FR arms pushed the center link further out. This took the toe from 1/8" IN to 1/8" OUT.
Toe is easy enough to check and adjust so if you're handy, you can do it yourself.....

Here is what I did:

Take the measurements, then turn the tie rod collars an equal amount a little at a time to get the toe to where you want it.

 

[khryslerkid]

That is an excellent idea. Thanks for making this an option.



You will need to factor in the cost of a front end alignment after swapping the center link. Caster and Camber will be the same but the toe will change. When I had the Fast Ratio steering arms, the longer FR arms pushed the center link further out. This took the toe from 1/8" IN to 1/8" OUT.
Toe is easy enough to check and adjust so if you're handy, you can do it yourself.....


View attachment 1724861

Here is what I did:


View attachment 1724862

View attachment 1724863

View attachment 1724864

Take the measurements, then turn the tie rod collars an equal amount a little at a time to get the toe to where you want it.

Well hopefully whoever engineered the center link has it dead nuts to the factory specs. Of course you want to check the toe regardless. I'll hook my tape measure to the center tread, pull it across to the same location on the opposite tire. Do this front and back to get your 1/8" difference. It was dead on at the alignment shop doing this.

 

[Encswsm]

I can't tell by your photo, so I'll ask. Looking at the center link, from underneath, the way the bends are, center of the center link should be towards the rear. Is it?

Yes the center goes back and down from the front of the car.