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Changing out oil pan need help

frank

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Harrington Delaware
I have 69 RR 383 magnum 4 speeds; when I purchased the car about 2 years back it came with an extended oil pan. Let me first say that I only take the RR to shows and don’t run it hard with mileage per years being very low. I would like to change the pan back to the original size.
My question, since the pan is extended is there an oil pump at the bottom of the pan that will need to also be replaced. Will I have to get a shorter one, if so can you recommend a good one.
Thanks
Frank, from Delaware
 
the pump is on the side of the block- the oil filter is attached to it. You will need a pickup (some call it a strainer to match whatever pan you put on
 
Adding to the thread...
Do I need to get a new dipstick and the parts to go with it?
Also...what about the wingage tray......
The best gasket to use......
 
There is a pickup inside that will need to be changed but not the oil pump. When you get a new pan it will either come with a matching pickup or youll need to get one that works with it.
 
the correct pan would be a "402". "402" will be stamped on the pan and they are being reproduced. you will need the matching pick-up (strainer).
 
The dipstick should be ok,,, Full is still Full, and measured from the mounting point at the engine block down to the full level. This point in which full is measured remains the same.
Windage trays are installed with two pan gaskets, or sometimes RTV between the tray and block. It just depends on who you ask, and how passionate they are about his or her opinion. Me,,, I say whatever works is fine! I used RTV between my stud girdle and the block, then a gasket on the pan itself.
You'll find that the pickup tube threads into the block with a pipe thread. These can be kind of tough to get unscrewed, so be prepared to start questioning yourself about what you're doing... LOL! They are standard right hand threaded pipe threads, so spinning counter clockwise will loosen it up for ya.
Make sure you get the correct length pickup tube for the pan you replace with..... Most manufactures / suppliers carry both, or they can even come as a kit....use RTV in the timing cover joining seem, the rear main housing joining seems. Just a small bead is all it takes to prevent those pesky little leaks!
Good luck!
 
67 B-Bodies
I have a couple of question…..and few observations
The dipstick is ok .. got that.
What is a RTV….. (RTV Silicone)?
What is a stud girdle……
I’m to use RTV between the timing cover joining seam and the rear main housing….. I go that.
For the remaining part of the pan, do I use RTV or leave it dry.
Also, suggestions on the best gasket…rubber or cork.
For the most part, the pan gasket is leaking (it’s rubber) maybe I should just leave the Lg. pan and install a new gasket.
Your thoughts………….
 
67 B-Body

I'm looking for a bench seat with head rest and a 8 3/4 3.23 rear end. At the moment I have a 3.91 and that's a bit much.

any help ??
 
Does the Windage tray just sit on the block or is there a gasket between the tray and the block?
The assembly procedure, gasket on the block, Windage tray another gasket then the oil pan?
 
67 B-Bodies
I have a couple of question…..and few observations
The dipstick is ok .. got that.
What is a RTV….. (RTV Silicone)?
What is a stud girdle……
I’m to use RTV between the timing cover joining seam and the rear main housing….. I go that.
For the remaining part of the pan, do I use RTV or leave it dry.
Also, suggestions on the best gasket…rubber or cork.
For the most part, the pan gasket is leaking (it’s rubber) maybe I should just leave the Lg. pan and install a new gasket.
Your thoughts………….

Well, I like to use an even "small" bead of RTV Silicone and allow it to skin over a bit before assy. Also, I like to draw down bolts evenly but not all the way tight at first. I like the silicone to get the shape of whatever I'm putting together, then finish tightening up the next day if I'm not in too big of a hurry. Just remember that whatever amount you put on will be squeezed and spread out. If you use alot, it will go into the oil pan!
The order would be RTV or gasket, Windage tray, CORK gasket, oil pan. I have even smeared a thin layer of RTV across both mating surfaces that the cork gasket is sealing up.... Just a thin skim coat. I think it helps keep the gasket from pushing around, and also takes up the smallest voids.
The stud girdle I refered to goes in at the position your windage tray does in the order of assy. It does however serve a completely different purpose, as it is a plate of steel that ties the main bearings together and to the block itself. This is done to prevent main bearing cap walk in high performance engines.
As far as leaving the large pan,,, it's your choice..... If I were building a 100% restoration show car, I would swap it out with the correct pan, otherwise I would use the deep pan as long as it wasn't causing problems.
If you choose to re-use your deep pan, make sure you get all the bolt holes flattened back down level with the rest of the pans rail. If they are left stretched inwards "dimpeled in" that can be the source of an oil leak itself! A flat wooden work bench and a deep walled socket works along with a hammer to flatten things back into shape nicely.

Cheers
 
67 B Body

Thanks for all the informarion, I found a 402 (ver good shape) up in NJ with a new Windage still in the package for $100.00.

This is the second time you help me out, your a great asset ti the site to the B-Body site.

Frank, from Delaware
 
Question about Pickup tub for 402 oil pan

Now that I hace the 402 oil pan, I need a dependable vender where I can get the correct pickup tub. It need to be 4.25" from rail to bottom the 402 will not take anything longer.

Thanks, Frank from
Delaware
 
Oil Pickup Tub Question

Now that I have the 402 oil pan, I need a dependable vender where I can get the correct pickup tub. It needs to be 4.25" from rail to bottom the 402 will not take anything longer.

Thanks, Frank from
Delaware
 
Now that I have the 402 oil pan, I need a dependable vender where I can get the correct pickup tub. It needs to be 4.25" from rail to bottom the 402 will not take anything longer.

Thanks, Frank from
Delaware

Let me see what I have.... I might be able to help you out with that. I took the stock pan and tube from my 67 block.
 
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