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Cheetah manual valve body

greenmachine

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Hi all
I tried searching but came up with no answer. I am looking to buy a manual valve body for my 727. I like the cheetah but want to know if I can choose to put it just drive and let it walk the gears or If I have to up shift/down shift every time. Thanks. Erik.
 
Hi all
I tried searching but came up with no answer. I am looking to buy a manual valve body for my 727. I like the cheetah but want to know if I can choose to put it just drive and let it walk the gears or If I have to up shift/down shift every time. Thanks. Erik.
Also, if the cheetah doesn't have that option are there any manual valve bodies that do offer that?
 
The Cheetah is a manual valve body. I have two and enjoy shifting them. You must keep the throttle pressure linkage if you use the Transgo kit but, that is my favorite shift kit and I've used them for years.
Mike
 
No idea about the Cheetah, but I’m using Cope’s Street/strip manual VB. It must be shifted, no option for leaving it in D.

I drive mine to work most days when it’s nice and shifting is fun, not a pain at all... can I ask why you don’t want to shift?
 
A manual valve body must be shifted. If your engine and torque converter can take it, you can just drive it in third gear but it will not shift itself through the gears, it will be in third gear. I had a shifter cable break on mine and drove a while in third gear. I have a 440, 3500 rpm stall converter and 3.91 gears so it wasn't that much of a strain on things. A manual valve body eliminates any overlap between gear shifts for improved acceleration times. The down side is harsh shifts, and NO downshifting or engine braking in first gear. If you want to "D" and go, just get a shift kit and call it a day. Nothing wrong with that. Sometimes 'too much' really is too much.
 
Sorry to high jack but while on the topic is there a downside to installing a trans brake once a manual valve body is installed? My understanding is if you just don't use it, it just acts like a regular RMVB...Anyone have any experience with this on the street?
 
Trans brake activates the rear band to lock the trans if you are in gear. To back up you have to be in neutral and activate the trans brake. Its basically a manual reverse function

Other then that the trans works normally
 
Trans brake activates the rear band to lock the trans if you are in gear. To back up you have to be in neutral and activate the trans brake. Its basically a manual reverse function

Other then that the trans works normally
Oh didn't realize that, something to think about, Thanks
 
Hughes makes a manual/automatic valve body. The rep told me it's an automatic with a good shift kit. So you can manual shift or just put it in drive. You can't down shift a manual valve body you have to come to a complete stop. My car is 95% a street car. He stressed a manual valve body is not for the street. He also stated I had to ship him my core to build cuz cores were drying up. I appreciate all the input.
 
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Turbo Action has a manual VB than has auto features as well.
 
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RMVB with TransBrakes have downshift capabilities while rolling. No engine braking in 1st. No need to press a button to engage reverse
 
My shop was not far from Transgo in el Monte CA
Upright straight shooters- no BS
Can't win if you break rule is first so not too harsh
durability a key peramater
you can build the Valve body any way you want with their big kit
I had an Art Carr kit in a C4- not the same philosophy-but would really churp the tires while trans lasted- (that was an early kit- Carr may have lightened up) was on an early Shelby GT 350 valve body Carr was in Pasadena somewhere then
BTW Transgo has updated the 518 series OD kit
I'm going to pull my vb and check it against the new kit and put the low/ reverse ball back in- no reason to have the harsh engagement
I have over a quarter million miles with some heavy towing on my 92 V8 with the Transgo mods but also have the straight cut diesel gears and extra clutches everywhere
 
+1 for transgo big kit. It has several options in one kit. You can build it for basic tow/shift improvement, stage 2 for stiffer shifts and manual shift. Stage 3 for full on manual valve body. If your car spends most its life on the street you would want to go with stage 2. This is the one that allows you to stick it in D as well as run manual. Stage 2 does require some minor drilling on the valve body to enlarge some holes. Stage 3 is more involved and requires some more permanent modifications to the valve body. If you go stage 3 and don't like it you will have to source a new valve body to go back.
 
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RMVB with TransBrakes have downshift capabilities while rolling. No engine braking in 1st.

this is not a street VB. I talked to a lot of guys when selecting my VB and rear band apply is a must for a street car as it protects the drum... one wrong move and your drum explodes.
 
I've driven a TurboAction TransBrake RMVB on the street and track for over 20 years.... No problems here. 675HP Blown and Nitrous sb.
I understand the safety aspects but...
I enjoy the no engine breaking in 1st feature, especially while going from a roll on the street.....
 
this is not a street VB. I talked to a lot of guys when selecting my VB and rear band apply is a must for a street car as it protects the drum... one wrong move and your drum explodes.
I've heard this as well, also requires 2nd gear upshift burnout.
 
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