Chrysler 8 3/4 Axle bearing and Seal R&R...A How To

[HS 69 Charger]

Seems a bit of personal taste on the SureGrip model. I did end up going with Auburn (which according to another thread was the original OEM design). I also chose to go back to my build sheets gear ratio so picked up Yukon Gear and Pinion set.
One follow up question. The Auburn SureGrip Diff came with a Limited Slip Additive bottle to add into standard Gear Lube. But when I checked local stock of Gear Lube I found Lucas Conventional Oil 80W-90. But on the back it says exceeds Service Level: MIL-PRF-2105E and PG2 Limited Slip. So two things: My Service Manual says use MIL-PRF-2105B. I expect this means we are beating it with the 2105E.
But my bigger question is PG2 Limited Slip. So does this mean I still use the Auburn Additive or NOT.
Thanks for any advice on this.

 

[Cranky]

Seems a bit of personal taste on the SureGrip model. I did end up going with Auburn (which according to another thread was the original OEM design). I also chose to go back to my build sheets gear ratio so picked up Yukon Gear and Pinion set.
One follow up question. The Auburn SureGrip Diff came with a Limited Slip Additive bottle to add into standard Gear Lube. But when I checked local stock of Gear Lube I found Lucas Conventional Oil 80W-90. But on the back it says exceeds Service Level: MIL-PRF-2105E and PG2 Limited Slip. So two things: My Service Manual says use MIL-PRF-2105B. I expect this means we are beating it with the 2105E.
But my bigger question is PG2 Limited Slip. So does this mean I still use the Auburn Additive or NOT.
Thanks for any advice on this.

View attachment 1279137

Here's what I did with the original cone type SG's.....and from what I saw years ago, the new Auburns are not the same but anyways, if it didn't chatter, I didn't ad the additive. Never had a clutch type not chatter but had several originals cone units that didn't. Just my take on them.

 

[threewood]

Wheel stud replacement time!

The studs I had on the 8 3/4 were always short so I ordered longer ones (Dorman 610-446) and today was the day.

Old vs. New. Knurled part was perfect.

First thing I saw was a broken adjuster cable. The spare I have is too short so I'll have to order one.

On to knocking out the old and pressing in the new. I knocked the old studs out with a hammer. Base of the axle was on a thick piece of brass.

New ones were pressed in. I used a large socket as a spacer over the stud. BEFORE YOU PRESS THE STUD IN, PUT THE NEW NUT ON THE STUD. OTHERWISE YOU RISK SCRAPING THE THREADS IF THE SOCKET ISN'T CENTERED! I sprayed a bit of lube on the knurls and pressed them home.

 

[threewood]

Upon pulling the driver side I heard the dreaded Klunk of the spacer button diving out of the differential. Fuuuuudddggggeee!!!

So I rigged a retrieval tool out of an old curtain rod, weed eater string, and a rare earth magnet mounted to a 30-06 case. The bullet case fit inside the tube so when it was inside I could push it out and drop it into the rear end.

Success!!!

And everything back together.

 

[dadsbee]

Buttons are important...

 

[MoparLeo]

A lot of weights on that drum. studs look nice.

 

[threewood]

A lot of weights on that drum. studs look nice.

Raybesto Chinese drum as it arrived. There were also issues with the casting flash that caused a dragging against the brake backing plate and brake shoes. I'm really tired of junk parts out of the box.

 

[RT SE 440]

Hello all sorry to hi jack this thread but i've just replaced my axle bearings and it has the R/H side adjuster but the strangest thing is it doesn't have enought adjustment when you turn it clock wise to take the slack but when i go anti clock wish it takes the slack out but i feel this is incorrect as the adjuster is pushing the axle out what have i got wrong thanks ahead

 

[threewood]

Hello all sorry to hi jack this thread but i've just replaced my axle bearings and it has the R/H side adjuster but the strangest thing is it doesn't have enought adjustment when you turn it clock wise to take the slack but when i go anti clock wish it takes the slack out but i feel this is incorrect as the adjuster is pushing the axle out what have i got wrong thanks ahead

I would make sure everything is seated. Start with the driver side and make sure it is all together correctly and snugged down. Did you get both axle bearings seated all the way on the axle?

 

[RT SE 440]

I would make sure everything is seated. Start with the driver side and make sure it is all together correctly and snugged down. Did you get both axle bearings seated all the way on the axle?

I think I've worked out what's wrong with the axle slop when you put a truetrac in you should have a thrust spacer between the axles similar to the factory setup but it just floats between the axles if you use the standard factory bearings. which of course was not in the box so it's either no longer used or someone hasn't done their job at the Eaton plant and put them in the box as i checked with my supplier and all his other stock don't have the thrust spacer either so i think they just expect everyone to use green type bearings as the spacer would then eliminated from the equation . Anyone built one with a truetrac have this issue ?

 

[threewood]

I think I've worked out what's wrong with the axle slop when you put a truetrac in you should have a thrust spacer between the axles similar to the factory setup but it just floats between the axles if you use the standard factory bearings. which of course was not in the box so it's either no longer used or someone hasn't done their job at the Eaton plant and put them in the box as i checked with my supplier and all his other stock don't have the thrust spacer either so i think they just expect everyone to use green type bearings as the spacer would then eliminated from the equation . Anyone built one with a truetrac have this issue ?

The axle button I retrieved in my previous post is an Eaton Trutrac button. Your going to have call them and get a replacement.

 

[c.moo]

No problem with pressing the wheel studs in ? Stock ones have a 0.673 knurl on them , the ones you have his a .684 knurl on them don't know if that makes a different or not ? If not going to replace my . Thanks

 

[threewood]

No problem with pressing the wheel studs in ? Stock ones have a 0.673 knurl on them , the ones you have his a .684 knurl on them don't know if that makes a different or not ? If not going to replace my . Thanks

No issues.

 

[dadsbee]

Can't see 10 thou on diameter being an issue either..

 

[Timmayy]

When I did the new studs on my axle I did a trick an old timer taught me many years ago. Put them in your freezer overnight. They will condense from the frigid temps and go in a lot easier. I would take out one at a time and just use my battery powered impact on the lugnuts with a centering tool and they went right in. I also did this when I replaced the door hinge pins. When they get back to temp they seat just like new.

If someone already posted this then I missed it. Sorry.

 

[a70duster]

"They will condense from the frigid temps and go in a lot easier."

Contract

 

[RJRENTON]

When I did the new studs on my axle I did a trick an old timer taught me many years ago. Put them in your freezer overnight. They will condense from the frigid temps and go in a lot easier. I would take out one at a time and just use my battery powered impact on the lugnuts with a centering tool and they went right in. I also did this when I replaced the door hinge pins. When they get back to temp they seat just like new.

If someone already posted this then I missed it. Sorry.

The phenomenon you refer to is called Coefficient of Linear Expansion due to heat (expansion) or CONTRACTION due to cold .......the degree of expansion or contraction is based on the alloy of the material and the temperature is is subjected to........just thought you might like to know.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Timmayy]

Contract

Get smaller.

 

[Cranky]

Get smaller.

Smallerized....

 

[1967coronet]

Smallerized....

And then ?

Oh Bob...........