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Chrysler 8 3/4 Axle bearing and Seal R&R...A How To

All 8 3/4" are 30 spline. The diameter steps down from the splines a little and then gets larger, some more than others but I don't think it's year specific.
Still trying to figure out a Spline is that a standard?
 
If you look in the service manual, it requires a specialized tool I don't have and isn't necessary when using the cut and split technique. There is little to no room to get anything behind the bearing to press or pull and they are on there tight.
That was the old way.
 
Still trying to figure out a Spline is that a standard?

FYI.....
All you wanted to know about splines (or not) on power transmisson devices...axle shafts in particular...
By definition, a spline shaft is a mechanical component can perform two functions, as an anti-rotational device or transmit torque to another device. These functions can be undertaken because the splines, or teeth or grooves of the gear, are machined into the length of the shaft.
There are a number of spline shaft designs currently in use today. Here are some of the most common ones:
Parallel:This kind of spline shaft would have ridges or teeth that have a square profile.
Involute: This kind has tapered ridges along the shaft, which help in lowering the stress concentrations during gear operation.
Crowned: This kind of spline shaft have specially designed teeth that taper or smoothen out towards the end face of the spline. This allows for angular misalignment during gear operation.
Serrations: This kind of spline shaft would have a non-involute tooth designed spline. The said gear splines would be set at an angle allowing for more teeth to be set on the shaft itself.
Helical: This kind of spline shaft would either have parallel or involute splines where the ridges form a helix pattern across and around the shaft itself.

BOB RENTON
 
This foam seal below goes on the axle tube first and then the metal one on top?
upload_2021-7-22_15-4-8.jpeg
image.jpg
 
Other way around I think. I'm sure the foam is last, and butts up against the drum backing plate.
 
It does show it in the FSM but it doesn't show the backing plate, so it's confusing in the final order.
 
Humm go figure it out.
That’s why I’m here! My books are packed for moving.
Hell of a time to need them when you draw a blank on something you haven’t done in many years.

You won the prize for not knowing The question was a joke you dont deserve to have one of these cars.
The question was not a joke. Not knowing or remembering the order of things happens to everyone. Having a forum like FBBO is helping everyone from brand new to MoPar people to older people that have had them all there life. Forgetting or not knowing is not a disqualification for owning a car nor is knowing everything a qualifying quality that is mandatory to own a vehicle.

Your bantering and rude replies need not apply to the thread. It’s just mucking up a thread.

If you’re not helping, you’re probably hurting. Let’s all take a step back and relax. No sense making a great thread into a mud pit.
 
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Pick up the video below @ 5:55 into the video.
I thought it was done in this way. As seen in the thumbnail, it’s the Metal plate, foam, backing plate and then axle type order.


Steel gasket, backing plate, foam gasket, axle.

The video is showing a disk brake installation.
 
Great info on here. I just pulled my rear out as this is the third time I will replace the drivers side inner seal. Sure enough, the two thrust buttons and broken pin were sitting in the bottom of my pumpkin. This of course allowed the drivers side axle way too much play back and forth ruining the inner seal. My question is: Will I have to replace that broken pin to keep them in place or if I am real careful on installation will the thrust buttons stay in place? Thanks!
 
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