Clutch fork troubles on my 73?

[bandit67]

Guys, I have been collecting parts for several years now to return my OEM 73 four speed back to a four speed. A PO in the past had swapped the whole drive train over to an automatic, so , I ve had to find it all. The bell housing is a Mopar part I found at a swap meet. Seller said it came from a hemi, it was in good condition. The fork is brand new Chrysler said to be correct for my 73. Clutch is a stock diaphragm unit for a 440. I had the release bearing clipped onto the fork prior to installing the four speed but had trouble getting the tranny in that last half inch. That suckers heavy trying to put in by yourself to twist and turn and push. So , I pulled the fork out thinking maybe it could be binding. No help, and had to back off the pressure plate bolts to let the clutch disc move and it all slipped right in. So, now have the bell housing up tight to the block and tranny up tight to the bell housing but now cannot get the fork back in place. With the release bearing hard up against the diaphragm fingers, it still needs to move forward more than a 1/4 inch to get the fork ears to clip in behind the release bearing tabs. Seems to me this would cause the bearing to be always spinning. Isn t that bearing only to touch lightly or none at all when no pedal pressure is applied . I m thinking I got some mismatched parts but not sure what. The fork appears to be the correct length for the new linkage I have. Maybe you can tell from the photo....thanks.....

 

[padam]

Looks like the bearing may not be pressed all the way into the carrier.

 

[padam]

Also, is the fork clipped into the pivot? It has the clip into that and the pilot bearing carrier at the same time.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Good News/Bad News - any 4speed guy has been through this. Your clutch disk wasnt' "exactly" lined up. Anyway, the bad news is that when I ran into this issue, I had no choice but to pull the transmision back to get the fork in. (sorry)
Good News - get several LONG (say 5", 8", 12") bolts with the same thread as the 4 bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Remove the two lower bolts (one at a time) and replace them with the long bolts as appropriate...only have one bolt out at a time. Then remove both top bolts. Then you can slide the transmission back, without having to hold its weight, and it stays aligned. Sometimes you can use one of the top bolt holes if needed.
Things to check - make sure the throwout bearing is indeed fully pressed into place and MAKE SURE your clutch disk is facing the right way...MAKE SURE. If it's backwards, the transmission will still bolt up, but the car will always be in gear (if I remember correctly.... ask me how I know). IF you have trouble shoving the transmission in that last 1/4"-1/2"...you "can" have a buddy push on the clutch pedal right as you give the trans that last shove home. For that last little bit, the input shaft splines have started to engage in the clutch disk (so the disk can't fall anymore) and the input shaft tip isn't "exacly" lined up with the pilot bushing/bearin - FYI)

 

[bandit67]

Thanks, the z bar, or torque bar has not yet been installed. Yes, I can pull the tranny and prolly reinstall much easier now that the clutch disc has been aligned with the actual splined shaft instead of that plastic one that comes with the kit. I will pull the tranny and double check to make sure the disc is in right side, I saved all the paperwork. Back to my question, with the release bearing clipped correctly to the fork arm and no linkage hooked up to the fork, should the bearing be touching the fingers or just real close. I m thinking NOT, but not sure. I mean i was always taught not to sit in traffic holding in the clutch, that that was just putting unnecessary wear on the bearing.

 

[padam]

Thanks, the z bar, or torque bar has not yet been installed. Yes, I can pull the tranny and prolly reinstall much easier now that the clutch disc has been aligned with the actual splined shaft instead of that plastic one that comes with the kit. I will pull the tranny and double check to make sure the disc is in right side, I saved all the paperwork. Back to my question, with the release bearing clipped correctly to the fork arm and no linkage hooked up to the fork, should the bearing be touching the fingers or just real close. I m thinking NOT, but not sure. I mean i was always taught not to sit in traffic holding in the clutch, that that was just putting unnecessary wear on the bearing.

Mechanical linkage there has to be clearance.

 

[lemondana]

I didn't think they ever used the diaphragm clutch on the 440?

 

[WileE]

I didn't think they ever used the diaphragm clutch on the 440?

Stock clutch was a Borg & Beck 3-finger.

 

[padam]

A proper diaphragm unit should be a bolt in change.

 

[Nevada dan]

looks like your throwout will go back about 3/8 of an inch once your fork is all the way in

 

[Daves69]

In your picture, is the fork seated on the pivot? If it is, the top side of the release bearing is twisted on the fork too far.
FWIW, maybe not preferred method, but it's possible to pop the fork on without trans removal. You'll need to keep the release bearing pads from turning on you as all three points must overcome their spring loads at the same time. It's much easier with a helper, one holds the positioning and the other forces the fork in. Deburring sharp edges and little grease on the points can aid as well.

 

[bandit67]

Daves69, no on the seated clutch fork. On your point one I can get the tip into the slot on the pivot point but the fork itself is hitting the bell housing and will not move any more. If I could get the bearing to move forward into the diaphragm fingers about a 1/4 inch the pivot would drop down into its slot and I may would have some clearance. And then your point 2 would be into the clips. This is my first venture with a Mopar manual shift but I have done many GMs. Their pivot point is a ball and socket and I have never had a problem slipping in the fork AFTER the tranny is pulled up tight with the bell housing. As i posted earlier, all the pieces were purchased at different times and I wonder does this bell housing need another fork. So, just wondering if my assembly of parts need modifying or did I need a different part. Thanks all......

 

[dvw]

If you have the correct clutch fork, there are different height fork pivot brackets. Has this set up ever been operational before now? I've have bent and broken the fork pivot before.
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=103
Any questions call Dan Brewer. He's a great guy and can help you. The fork pivot can be changed in the car. If the clutch pressure plate is bolted down and the trans its bolted up the disc should be fine unless it was backwards to start with.
Doug

 

[Daves69]

You might check Brewer's Perf for dimensions and differences on components.

...If I could get the bearing to move forward into the diaphragm fingers about a 1/4 inch the pivot would drop down into its slot and I may would have some clearance...

I don't know all about the diaphragms or if the finger / fulcrum ratio is different than a B&B.
For the B&B, the recommended finger height installed should be 1.700" per MP.

 

[joe smith]

I am updating a Mustang I inherited from a 4 speed to a TKX...
I did many clutch/4speeds installs years ago, but at 66 yrs old, this one was whipping my rear.. It would not go in the last 3/4 inch ( Pilot bearing)
Now my engine is out of the car, so I purchased a sling for my engine picker to help with the weight .. STill could not get it in...
I took everything back apart and REchecked things AGAIN and found nothing wrong... Never did one this way before but I installed the bell on the tranny and tried attaching them as a unit to the engine.... Fell right in..... Doing it this way, the arm and throwout bearing were solidly on the input shaft so I didn't have them coming loose......

 

[bandit67]

Thanks all. I am going to pull the tranny back out a recheck everything. Going to find out the casting number on the bell housing and ENSURE I have the correct fork and pivot bracket for said housing. Drug home a 69 Satellite the other day and need to get the wheels freed up enough to get it off the trailer and parked somewhere....too much going on while Im in the middle dealing with the flue.......geeezzzzz......

 

[lemondana]

Compare your fork pivot with the pictures on Brewers website to verify that you have the correct one for your year and bellhousing.