Clutch Replacement

[OKDart]

I'm getting parts together for my 1970 Roadrunner 383/3 speed. I have never worked on a manual transmission car before. I plan to have the 130 tooth flywheel resurfaced and ring gear replaced. My questions are:

1. The disc measures just short of 11", do I need to replace with a 10 1/2" clutch?

2. My shifter handle and boot say Hurst, but the shifter mechanism isn't, correct? What was correct for 1970 3 speeds? Looks like if I want to replace the boot, I need to get one for 68-69 to fit my round handle, correct?

3. The shifter mechanism moves freely, anything I should look for, or do to it while its out? My thoughts were to soak it in Evaporust, then oil it.

4. The transmission had gear oil in it, but the FSM says to use ATF. Any reason not to use ATF?

5. Should I replace the pressure plate bolts? Do they get brittle with heat? It was held on by 12 point bolts with a tall head base. I see Brewers has 6 point bolts that look similar, they should work, right?

I should add that this car was last registered in 1978, and I'm not sure of it's history other than that. I have a .030 over 8:1 compression 383 that I bought for $200 that's going in it just to make it a runner. It'll be a "fix-up as I drive" car. But I'm guessing 3-5 years down the road I'll probably build a low deck stroker and want a trans with O.D.. So this clutch/trans doesn't have to last too long or hold up to any horsepower.



I have the rebuild kit for the torque shaft, but still need to buy the ball studs because mine are very worn. I also have a new bronze bushing for the crank. Any other parts I should get? Is the input shaft seal easy to replace?

 

[R/T Boy 67]

A 10.5" or a 10.95" clutch will fit your flywheel.

 

[OKDart]

Thanks "R/T Boy 67"

I figure I'd update this thread for posterity.

I ordered all my parts and had my flywheel resurfaced ($50) and I replaced the ring gear ($21). It seems there's not a lot of places that will turn a flywheel anymore. It looked pretty clean at the shop, but sitting for a few days in low humidity, rust pitting showed up. I Can't feel it with a fingernail, I'm sure it's fine. The ring gear is thicker than the original, I'm sure that's a good thing. It was easy to replace with an acetylene torch.

Pressure plate bolts are readily available, but most are labeled for other Makes. I ordered Pioneer #859024 from O'reilly's ($14). They say they're for Chevy and measure about 13/16" even though the package says 3/8" x 1". They should work fine though. All the bolt kits come with washers, but the FSM says not to use them. Pic shows original on left, new on right.

I ordered a gasket kit from brewers ($12) for a 4 speed since 3 speed parts are hard to find. I'm sure I could find everything I need at a local transmission supply place, but I haven't had the time. The kit comes with 2 front bearing support gaskets, and the larger one fits. The only gasket that won't fit is the side cover.

The front seal was brittle and needed to be replaced, tapping it with a thin screwdriver on the fwd side got it out.

I also ordered a 68-69 shifter boot from brewers that looks like it'll fit perfect.

The clutch kit came with 2 bushings and no instructions. I assume one is for a drilled crank, and the other is for a drilled and reamed crank. I also ordered a 90's Dakota pilot bearing just incase. It goes in big hole in the crank meant for the torque converter snout.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Make sure to remove the big overcenter spring on the clutch pedal, as you are using a diaphram clutch. I would go with the dakota pilot bushing. Make sure the clutch bolts will work, and don't bottom out, and have enough thread etc.