Color/Wet Sanding, Cut and Buff - Input Wanted

[Detroit Iron]

I just painted my first complete car with single stage. I have the entire car color/wet sanded to 3000 grit. Next is the cut and buff process, but I'm new to that as well. I am looking for input on the steps to do this. I pictured the products I have to work with. I've watched a ton of videos on this, and I understand there will be differing opinions, but I'd like to hear from those here with experience. Members here have always given me excellent advise. Thank you so much.

 

[eldubb440]

3000 scratch will buff up with almost no effort.......slow rotation is good....... find an open area and experiment.......if you sanded your *** off and only have 3000 scratch left, you are 85% there

 

[69L48Z27]

I like the 3M Perfect-it line. Wool pad one stage 1 and then foam on 2&3.

 

[eldubb440]

is that black? i'd probably skip the wool and use foam to avoid swirrels....... might even consider 5000 grit trizact disc after 3000...... what type 3000 did you use? I dig the 3m trizact on a DA wet with an interface pad, pricey, but saves a lot of time and effort. makes for minimal buffing and a super nice job

3m compound and polish is your friend

 

[Detroit Iron]

is that black? i'd probably skip the wool and use foam to avoid swirrels....... might even consider 5000 grit trizact disc after 3000...... what type 3000 did you use? I dig the 3m trizact on a DA wet with an interface pad, pricey, but saves a lot of time and effort. makes for minimal buffing and a super nice job

3m compound and polish is your friend

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Yes, the car is black. I used these 3000 grit discs, but I used them by hand. Since I'm a beginner, I'm a little afraid of using a DA on the paint.

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

tape over the edges with some masking tape , so you won't burn through on the edges , thats the least amount of paint on the car is them there edges , and corners can catch the buffer wheel and do damage . and make sure the car is clean of dirt n crap it can put deep scratches in the finish .

 

[snakeoil24]

Using discs by hand will leave finger marks. Remember you get what you paid for stay with 3m product for everything. You need to use an interface pad with 3m 5000 pads to avoid mistakes you will make as a beginner. Stay away from Summit sanding anything and spend a few bucks on right right stuff. At thee nd you will regret using junk considering what time and money you spent painting the car. Also remember wash it wash it and wash it after every step.

 

[slimt]

Yes, the car is black. I used these 3000 grit discs, but I used them by hand. Since I'm a beginner, I'm a little afraid of using a DA on the paint.

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Ive use a DA on base clears most of the time. Usually with a interface pad. But beings clears have a tendancy to dye back. Some of those swirls are hard to get out. I made a point of using warm water , a drop of dish soap. But most of all making sure the sandpaper is properly soaked. To make sure the latex back back it very plyable. I only do one panel or 1/2 a panel at a time. That way there is no losing track and missing areas. A soft block with the paper wrapped around it. Have fresh water handy at all times to get rid of any grit polisher should be used at a moderate speed so theres no burning up the paint. And its also better control.

its a good thing its black. If it was metallic. Those metallics Would streak.

 

[Detroit Iron]

its a good thing its black. If it was metallic. Those metallics Would streak.

I know better than to use metallic on a first paint job. My next car will be FK5 base clear.

 

[NoCar2023]

Very nice job on that car.
We used to use a product called Liquid ebony on black single stage paint.

 

[eldubb440]

my method of operation.......

2000 wet by hand around all the edges, you dont want to DA there or on the points

1500 with interface pad, wet or dry......dry is easier to see as you go...... I remove almost all orange peel (98%?)....... 1500 will also expose any pesky dust nibs so you can work them by hand. the discs wear out pretty quick, dont be shocked if it requires 3 or 4 per panel

then 3000 trizact wet....... it has soap in it and will foam up a little......this will remove any 1500 marks...... control the speed of the DA, be thorough, work half panels......3000 goes a little further because you are only cutting the 1500 scratch.......2ish pads for the larger panels

at this point I can kiss it with a slow wool pad and good cutting 3m compound and its almost done. Foam pad will take a little longer...... 5000 after 3000 will make it even easier

foam pad polish is last...... done

the more you sand, the less you buff....... buffing sucks

there are some good youtube vids on the topic

 

[Detroit Iron]

I did half the hood as a test area. Yes, there are dents on the hood. I didn't spend a lot of time on it because it will be replaced soon. That's also why I did my test area on the hood.

 

[bearman]

It's awesome the work you're doing. Keep going that 64 going to look great.

 

[bret schucker]

been doing cut and buff for 40 yrs and every one has given you good advice . like stay off the edges , body lines with the buffer and sanding until done with that panel , a good wet sanding will save time and look better than trying to buff out bigger scratches, knowing how much clear you have to work with is #1 cuz you don't want to go thru the clear , feel the paint where you are buffing to see how hot you are getting the paint , be sure your using enough liquids don't dry buff or you'll get swirls that are difficult to get out , catch the light in your shop on the paint at the right angle so you can see the scratches as you buff , just because you used 3000 grit last doesn't mean that there are still some 1500 grit scratches still there and you will see them if you catch the light just right while buffing and those will need some more sanding in that area with 3000 grit , trying to buff out deeper scratches will only cloud up the paint or give swirls that are hard to get out so just set the buffer down and lightly wet sand those scratches out it will save you time and look better , don't bare down on your buffer causing excessive heat on paint a little warm is alright , wool at first for cutting , foam for final polishing and with wool be careful of heat by making sure you are not dry buffing use plenty of liquids, heavy wool for first cut , softer wool for second cut , foam pad for final polish , use a buffer that isn't a grinder too because the rpm associated with a dual purpose will be to high and risk burning the paint ! I use 3M until the final last polishing which then I go to Maguires with foam ! hope this helps

 

[Nate S]

This post is great. So helpful. Digging into my Sport Fury some time this fall. It’s been almost 30 years since I painted a car and things are different. I’ve done some panels and repairs in between but the whole DA wet sanding is new to me. I seem to remember 2000 in a half sheet with the orange back being the finest I could get. Always had to sand front to back to avoid swirls. This sounds like it’ll suck much less.