mach123
Well-Known Member
I have done searching to see what is needed to change columm auto to the floor shifter, and if it can be done. If anybody has done one or knows of where I can find info on it, that would be great. Thx in advance.
Convert columm to floor
- Thread starter mach123
- Start date
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
What year? Stock shifter or aftermarket? Console?
I converted mine in my 70 cnet. Found most of the stuff used on eBay. Console w/all the pieces $500. Shifter and linkage used $250. Console wiring harness $40. I bought a correct floor shift column that is compatible with ps from Ted Stevens, $350 i believe. I could've gotten by with just taking the column shifter handle off, but wanted it to look right. Now if that seems like allot of $ to go with stock stuff, u could get a b&m or tci shifter and console cheaper. And it probably will shift more accurately. That's all I got on that. Im sure theirs someone more knowledgeable on the subject than me that can chime in.
I converted mine in my 70 cnet. Found most of the stuff used on eBay. Console w/all the pieces $500. Shifter and linkage used $250. Console wiring harness $40. I bought a correct floor shift column that is compatible with ps from Ted Stevens, $350 i believe. I could've gotten by with just taking the column shifter handle off, but wanted it to look right. Now if that seems like allot of $ to go with stock stuff, u could get a b&m or tci shifter and console cheaper. And it probably will shift more accurately. That's all I got on that. Im sure theirs someone more knowledgeable on the subject than me that can chime in.
Bruzilla
Well-Known Member
I converted a 74 Roadrunner, so it'll be the same deal for you. I paid $50 for a console and top plate, about $100 for the shifter mechanism and all the linkages and brackets, $45 for a new shifter, and $30 or so for the torque bracket that bolts to the tranny. You can use parts for 71-74 Satellites/Roadrunners, Chargers, Cudas, or Challengers. Don't try to buy things one piece at a time as buying things like the shifter mechanism as a group is usually cheaper.
The hardest part of the effort for me was making sure the three brackets are in the right place. There are no reference marks on the floor, and pictures aren't much help as they can show a difference of an inch or so in location. But, there are some workarounds.
To convert:
1. Remove your carpet and locate the cut out area for the shifter to go through the floor. It's circular with little dimples showing where to drill the holes for the rubber boot ring that seals the hole to go through. Cut a hole about 1.5" out of the center of the area.
2. Assemble the shifter mechanism and attach it to the front and middle brackets. There are three brackets but the rear one is just used to hold down the console.
3. Attach the torgue bracket to the transmission.
4. Drop the vertical bar (the one with the rubber boot on it) that the shifter rotates through the hole in the floor, and make sure it slides into the hole in the torque bracket. This will make sure the front bracket is pretty well aligned.
5. Arrange the mechanism and brackets so that they are on the top of the center hump of the floor, and make sure the shifter lever is in Park. This will make sure you have the shifter and middle bracket in the right place.
6. Either weld the brackets to the floor, or do what I did, which is attach them using 3/8" pop rivets.
7. Go under the car (after the wheels have been chocked and you've got it on stands), and disconnect the linkage from the column shifter. It's held in place with a grommet that you'll probably destroy in the process.
8. Connect the linkage that runs from the vertical bar to the tranny, and lock in place using a cotter key.
9. Adjust the linkage by loosening the adjustment bolt and sliding the linkage forward or backwards. What you want is to have the linkage pushing the shift lever on the tranny all the way forward when the shift mechanism is in Park.
10. Put your console over the shifter, and screw it down, then screw down the top plate and put the shifter handle on.
That's it. Takes a couple of hours provided you have all the parts.
The hardest part of the effort for me was making sure the three brackets are in the right place. There are no reference marks on the floor, and pictures aren't much help as they can show a difference of an inch or so in location. But, there are some workarounds.
To convert:
1. Remove your carpet and locate the cut out area for the shifter to go through the floor. It's circular with little dimples showing where to drill the holes for the rubber boot ring that seals the hole to go through. Cut a hole about 1.5" out of the center of the area.
2. Assemble the shifter mechanism and attach it to the front and middle brackets. There are three brackets but the rear one is just used to hold down the console.
3. Attach the torgue bracket to the transmission.
4. Drop the vertical bar (the one with the rubber boot on it) that the shifter rotates through the hole in the floor, and make sure it slides into the hole in the torque bracket. This will make sure the front bracket is pretty well aligned.
5. Arrange the mechanism and brackets so that they are on the top of the center hump of the floor, and make sure the shifter lever is in Park. This will make sure you have the shifter and middle bracket in the right place.
6. Either weld the brackets to the floor, or do what I did, which is attach them using 3/8" pop rivets.
7. Go under the car (after the wheels have been chocked and you've got it on stands), and disconnect the linkage from the column shifter. It's held in place with a grommet that you'll probably destroy in the process.
8. Connect the linkage that runs from the vertical bar to the tranny, and lock in place using a cotter key.
9. Adjust the linkage by loosening the adjustment bolt and sliding the linkage forward or backwards. What you want is to have the linkage pushing the shift lever on the tranny all the way forward when the shift mechanism is in Park.
10. Put your console over the shifter, and screw it down, then screw down the top plate and put the shifter handle on.
That's it. Takes a couple of hours provided you have all the parts.
Benji
Well-Known Member
I converted one years ago but I didn't buy a new column I simply made the one I have work. After removing the lever by driving the roll pin out I took a hacksaw and sawed off the bosses that held the shifter lever to the column. The column was aluminum so it cuts very easily. I then took a small grinder and removed the stubs of the bosses. Then I took some bondo and filled in the hole. After it hardened I sanded it down until smooth and painted the column with a rattle can that closely matched the color of the column. I then took a small piece of thin aluminum and painted it flat black, removed the clear shield off of the instrument panel and glued the thin aluminum piece over the old PRND21 hole. The flat black paint didn't match the speedometer face exactly but it was really close and I figured that few will notice.
Benji
Benji
Similar threads
