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Corporal Corrosion 1969 dodge Coronet. More a question thread than a build?

OneWheelPeel

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Well today was the first day working on it, it arrived yesterday. I want to be clear on one thing: Please do not bash work on the car from the previous owner, I bought it from a forum member who rescued it and basically revived a car with a sordid past. I came along while he was still chipping away at it and I would not blame him for anything.

Disclaimer out of the way, on to the fun stuff! I mostly did inventory of the parts that were packed along with the car and then knocked out a few small things, like:
installing the trunk lock cylinder
oil pressure, gauges don't work so rigged up a test light to the sender to make sure pressure builds when I start it
let the battery trickle charge
checked fuses, one fuse isn't even getting power in any key position, so possible gauge culprit
tried to install a temporary coolant temp gauge, unsuccessful, more later
coil wasn't mounted so made a generic Mr Gasket one work.

I think thats it, not a lot but the day seemed to fly by. The important part was I then took it on its maiden voyage around the block, I'll just say I'm spoiled by modern cars :p it made it back in one piece but I suspect it was already getting warm which brings me to the pics and questions section.


1) This is a twofer: Is that a stock ignition box? Seems like a lot of extra wires just floating there.
2) That ugly rectangular hole, possible aftermarket AC scar?
20240728_170749.jpg


3) Fanciest looking radiator I've ever had in a car, suggestions on what shroud is likely to fit or is best to get and mod to fit?
4) On a 318 where can I screw in the sender for a mech temp gauge? I only found the stock sender in the intake which is too small.

20240728_170553.jpg

5) I've searched and it seems I have a sorta common prob where I can turn the key to crank, then it takes a few secs for the cranking to actually happen. I have some ideas from other threads to try but here are some pics from the wiring in the starter circuit in case something stands out to someone. Everything seems tight, not sure if its clean but it is tight. Once it cranks the cars starts and idles quickly.

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That's it for now, thanks for checking it out.
 
If that's a 4 pin ECU, each wire has someplace to go (distributor/coil/ballast resistor), shouldn't be any left overs hanging out. I'm not an expert on ignition systems, so someone may correct me on routing, but you shouldn't have any extra wires.
The "black hole" in the firewall looks like the location for the heater core inlet/outlet?
 
I agree there shouldn't be wires hanging out but it does seem to run fine, maybe some hodgepodge of a later part in an earlier car? Hopefully someone has an idea.
The two pipes for the heater core are above that hole but you can't see them clearly because wires are blocking the view.
 
checked fuses, one fuse isn't even getting power in any key position,
Try turning the headlights on... Then check for power... The dash light fuse is only powered when the lights are on..
 
Try turning the headlights on... Then check for power... The dash light fuse is only powered when the lights are on..
I tried that, just parking and then headlights and no power. I can try messing with the dome light switch while checking next just so I can say I tried everything I can think of. After that I’ll carefully try jumping power to that circuit to see if anything comes alive.
 
Well it’s been a week and made some progress.
For now used a temp gun to make sure it doesn’t overheat, perm fix on the way.
Brake lights didn’t work, long story short had to clean up the switch with some sandpaper along with where the bulb socket goes in the housing.
Mounted seatbelts.
Added a temp push button starter switch until I figure out the previously mentioned issue, I think I go to have the vin inspected this week and had anxiety it wouldn’t start. So the switch is a back up.
My ONE goal before tearing into this is at least drive it once to the local taqueria, weird I know, but I did that yesterday. First real drive and not bad, maybe I can live with manual steering. I want fatter wheels and tires and not sure if that would be as good with manual steering.

Anyway the only picture worthy thing was seeing how the rear bumper takes a quick SOS pad clean up. It will need another go and a polish but I can live with this old bumper for sure.

Before:



20240804_145723.jpeg
After:
20240804_152028.jpeg
 
Summit racing sells some generic aluminum radiator shroud kits that you bolt together. Might try that.
 
Summit racing sells some generic aluminum radiator shroud kits that you bolt together. Might try that.
Thanks, I have one of those kits in my summit cart that looks like it will fit. I think I’m cooling ok without it if yesterday was a good indicator but I will still get one for peace of mind and to protect my fingers!
 
Get that rascal going so you can head west in a couple of weeks to show the upper crust types what a real car is.
 
It’s clear I can plan what project I want to tackle next, but the car will actually tell me. Last weekend it was charging, today while mounting new wheels I saw one outer tie rod is really bad, even tho it wasn’t noticeable while driving. I won’t get that fixed this week but I’ll still call this weekend a win with the new wheels and tires.

IMG_0256.jpeg
 
Good looking car actually. I know there's always "must do's" but mine would be to inspect the wiring from front to back, look for bare wires, pull out all terminals from bulkheads, inspect, clean and replace if needed. It'll delay driving it but it will save you a big headache. Clean all grounds too.
I'm not a primer fan but B-bodies are one of the very few cars that look good in primer anyway. Of course big wheels and tires are needed.
 
Need a fan shroud of some sort. Spray entire can of electrical contact cleaner on Bulkhead Connector for good measure. Good job on rear bumper. Looks good, overriders a bonus.
 
Good looking car actually. I know there's always "must do's" but mine would be to inspect the wiring from front to back, look for bare wires, pull out all terminals from bulkheads, inspect, clean and replace if needed. It'll delay driving it but it will save you a big headache. Clean all grounds too.
I'm not a primer fan but B-bodies are one of the very few cars that look good in primer anyway. Of course big wheels and tires are needed.
Electrical was the first thing I really dived into since many components were not working. First stage was more triage to fix electrical enough to drive in for the VIN inspection. Now I'm getting into the more involved front to back part.
Need a fan shroud of some sort. Spray entire can of electrical contact cleaner on Bulkhead Connector for good measure. Good job on rear bumper. Looks good, overriders a bonus.
Yep shroud is on the list and contact cleaner should arrive in a day or 2 from Amazon. Thanks, front bumper is next.
 
Well slowly doing quick jobs :p
Last weekends quick job that took all day was replacing the water pump, pump itself was fine but the gasket behind it gave up. Took forever because these bolts haven't moved in decades and two really fought me, I used some of my tricks and slowly worked it out while chanting "pleasedontbreak" over and over.

Todays job was swapping the old fuel tank out, had a little mishap and all I'll say is for an out of shape middle aged guy if I spill gas I can sprint into the house super quick, shoo cats away while I rip open a box with cat litter, then sprint back to the driveway carrying the bag in one hand and a knife in the other to empty it!
So anyway while the old tank was out and once I was sure the fumes from the spill were gone I also cleaned up some rusty edges where the trunk rotted away. Now here is the random pic dump of today's work for anyone who might actually be watching, because why not, pics are always good.

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Except for a couple of small holes the package tray seems to be holding up ok, will hit it with rust treatment
20240921_133932.jpg

Got the fancy suspension set up here. It came that way, but I think I put those exact springs on a VW Squareback in the 90s to cure a sagging rear.
20240921_134123.jpg
 
Making progress!
On my cars, the rust is unually trunk, lower rear quarters, and around the rear window opening.
Forward of the trunk, the floor pans are pretty solid.
 
Old fasteners don't like to be forced. It's way better to coerce them into coming out, as you found out. Leave the impact guns out of the equation. Treat old car stuff like a grandparent with arthritis, back issues etc.
Looks like someone swapped in an 8.25 diff in the car.
 
Old fasteners don't like to be forced. It's way better to coerce them into coming out, as you found out. Leave the impact guns out of the equation. Treat old car stuff like a grandparent with arthritis, back issues etc.
Looks like someone swapped in an 8.25 diff in the car.
Thats exactly what I did. Even beyond bolts I discovered with my last old car, a 77 Vette that some things that don't work will start to if you gently exercise them back and forth, the same is happenning with this car. I'm also slower because I never did much work on a classic Mopar before, its been GM/Ford and Imports, so I go extra slow when learning.

On the rear diff, I actually logged into the site now to look for a recent post with an image to identify the diff since I suspected the same. I want to figure out how robust they are and find a diff cover with fill and drain plugs, partially for function and just for looks.

Speaking of looks took this pic while out and about, too much shadow but oh well. After that I got home and saw fuel dripping, an old clamp I reused gave up. Easy fix and I bought many to have on hand so I don't reuse cruddy clamps again.
20240922_1235402.jpg
 
Hi there. Looks like you have a fun build in front of you.

The 8.25" differential may be stock for that car. I have one in my car that I am pretty sure is original to the car. I did some investigating and it looks like they did use the 8.25" in some Coronets in 1969. If you find the cover for it you are looking for, I would appreciate a heads of what you found, as I couldn't find anything when I had mine apart. Good luck with your build. Cheers!
 
Hi there. Looks like you have a fun build in front of you.

The 8.25" differential may be stock for that car. I have one in my car that I am pretty sure is original to the car. I did some investigating and it looks like they did use the 8.25" in some Coronets in 1969. If you find the cover for it you are looking for, I would appreciate a heads of what you found, as I couldn't find anything when I had mine apart. Good luck with your build. Cheers!
I dug a little and found some reports that it may be stock as well, for the covers all I've found with a quick search on summit are some covers that are more off road focused and for the price I'm not sure I would want to get one. I'll probably just clean up what I have for now.
 
One panel can make a big difference.

How it arrived:
1.jpg

How I drove it for a little while (I hit this section with flat black after the pic) :
2.jpg

Now with an eBay find:
3.jpg


Its just cleco'd in for now, I'll screw it and straighten the panel a bit but I think its already a big improvement.
 
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