Valve train installed. Need to prime it and then get the intake and valve covers on.
Cylinder head and cam question
- Thread starter qkcuda
- Start date
Wietse
Well-Known Member
Coming together again nicely, that will look like a brand new engine when done.
Since the pistons are not at 0 deck, what head gasket did you end up using?
Guess a thin gasket will help a bit bumping that compression ratio.
Since the pistons are not at 0 deck, what head gasket did you end up using?
Guess a thin gasket will help a bit bumping that compression ratio.
I milled the heads .020 and ended up using a .040 composition gasket I had. That puts me back in the same relative location as unmilled heads and a .020 steel shim gasket. Calculated compression ratio is right at 8.5:1.
Made some progress this weekend. Primed the engine then installed the distributor gear. First I made sure I was at top dead center on compression. Next I made sure rotor was pointing at number one. I had marked the distributor position before I disassembled it, and everything is lining up correctly. I want this thing to fire up immediately to break in the cam.
Looking great. Your rotor is correct because both #1 lobes are on base circle (firing). make sure all vacuum lines are good, fill the bowls, lighter up!
I dry fit everything and figured I could use both paper gaskets on the intake. I had an oil leak on the last engine where I only used one. I was amazed at how close the stock ports were to the gasket size.
I needed a little help to get the intake bolts aligned. It was pretty tight but I got it snugged down. I will be removing the bolts one by one to add the brackets later.
Yes I am going to use my old carb for break in. I will pop the top off and fill the bowls first.
Looking good almost their. 
This is because those paper gaskets were not designed to be used with that motor.
Metal gasket with block off for the exhaust exchange at Jeg's. Need RVT at back and front of motor gasket.
Wietse
Well-Known Member
Just a quick tip, i had done this a few days ago to confirm i had no leaks on my intake.
Remove the rocker shafts to make sure all valves are closed.
Make a gasket and use and engine lifting plate to block off the carb port, use the threaded npt hole at the back for the brake vacuum to connect a compressed airline and slightly pressurize the intake. (5psi or so)
Then you can check with soapy water around the intake manifold-to-head connection for any leaks.
Remove the rocker shafts to make sure all valves are closed.
Make a gasket and use and engine lifting plate to block off the carb port, use the threaded npt hole at the back for the brake vacuum to connect a compressed airline and slightly pressurize the intake. (5psi or so)
Then you can check with soapy water around the intake manifold-to-head connection for any leaks.
I used the blocked valley pan gasket. I previously removed the heat riser. Also put rtv on the front and back. Hopefully leak free.
Here's a before picture for comparison.
Looks like Wile E Coyote is involved!!! Nice work!
Yes I restored my heat riser also. They say I don't need it in Fl. But here guy's say their car's run cold even in hot climates. Figured the guys that built the motor's knew it need it for first start up so I restored mine.
Wietse
Well-Known Member
Carb or fuel injection faces the same issue (maybe less for multipoint injection), when the engine is cold the fuel vapor in the air condenses against the cold intake manifold which causes the mixture to become very lean.
The sooner that intake manifold has has some temperature the fuel will stay as vapor suspended in the air and makes it straight to the cylinders.
Mine runs like **** when "cold" but once that intake heats up a bit it runs fine, i am not using the heat riser as the ports in the heads are plugged and unusable but i can manage without.
Don't think blocking off the exhaust through the intake will make that much difference do to the cooling fluids are still running through the motor and will heat up the block that way also. Just don't know if it hurt's that side of the block to have the heat riser on it. Will run it that way. It dose not take long for it to open up just a few minutes. Exhaust is coming out of that side when cranking up the motor. Dose not restrict the exhaust that much. Only time will tell. Any other thought's about this would be grate.
Wietse
Well-Known Member
Those exhaust gasses are hot from the start and will heat up the intake itself quickly, this obviously was there to avoid icing on the carb during really cold times.
That heat riser will have the intake warm before the cooling system gets warm.
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