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Dana 70 issues

Mike67

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So this ain't a b body question but I have an 02Ram 2500 24v 4x4 and the other day I was in a drive through and when I was easing up I would get "clunks"...I haven't looked at the BOM to find out what the internals are but just doing some research it sounded like I should have a Powr Lol. ..which from my understanding is a limited slip with clutch packs, but it sounded and felt more like a locker engaging.
It happens only when turning left and at <2mph...any advice? Rearend has about 320k on it.
:thankyou:
 
Is there a pinion nut? Sometimes it's something simple like the nut coming loose, changing pinion-to-ring gear engagement. Result is clunking, whining, vibrations, generally bad stuff that gets worse.

Hopefully it's something simple and you caught it early.
 
Is there a pinion nut? Sometimes it's something simple like the nut coming loose, changing pinion-to-ring gear engagement. Result is clunking, whining, vibrations, generally bad stuff that gets worse.

Hopefully it's something simple and you caught it early.

I'll take a look at it this weekend. I checked the diff fluid this past weekend and it was fine. I ordered two new hub assemblies for the front axles because I was starting to get a howl and could feel it in my steering wheel at hwy speeds ( unrelated). I guess while I'm doing that I will go ahead and do a full service on both..thanks for the advice runner!
 
Earlier this year I had my W350 (D60) out just checking and back-blading my driveways. The rear end locked, then unlocked, then started making nasty noises. I lost the wheel bearings on one side. The only thought I had was the oil level was down a little, and it drained off the bearings when it was parked long term and the bearing just overheated. You really won't "know" until you tear into it but you should know quickly if there is a mechanical problem.
 
I would pull the cover & look for anything broken, if looks good fill it with the proper gear oil & additive. sometimes doing a fluid service cures the type of problem you are having.
 
Since you're gonna pull cover, get a new aluminum cover for it. The reason is this, it will allow you to hold more fluid, has fins which will aid in cooling the fluid, has 2 pipe plugs for filling and draining and you can paint it black if ya don't want the polished aluminum look. I did this to mine and the extra capacity was worth it to me. Also, yes, it is a plate style carrier.
 
Earlier this year I had my W350 (D60) out just checking and back-blading my driveways. The rear end locked, then unlocked, then started making nasty noises. I lost the wheel bearings on one side. The only thought I had was the oil level was down a little, and it drained off the bearings when it was parked long term and the bearing just overheated. You really won't "know" until you tear into it but you should know quickly if there is a mechanical problem.

Well I didn't get to open the diffs this weekend but I did figure out that the howl... I pulled one of the front hubs off and it definitely had bad bearings...replaced and howl disappeared..
 
Yeah - you should "regularly" service the hubs and bearings. Take them apart, clean out the old grease, re-pack, inspect, etc. For me due to limited use that's about once every ten years...lol.
 
I've replaced one hub already, it was the same one I pulled to check, granted I had replaced it with a low mileage used oem piece, but those units on the 2500 4x4 are sealed and have no provissions that I've seen to service them...did I miss something???? Thanks moper!
 
Yours is a RAM. Mine is an old W series. I've got the D60 front with manual hubs and NP205 transfer case. You have the modern non-serviceable stuff... They do make a kit for manual hubs for yours though. Big cash, and not worth it IMO unless you're a long-distance hauler or heavy offroader.
 
That kit is around 1800 bucks, but then it is serviceable, also stronger if your running bigger tires as the bearings are spread further apart to carry the load.
 
That kit is around 1800 bucks, but then it is serviceable, also stronger if your running bigger tires as the bearings are spread further apart to carry the load.

I can buy a lot of replacement hubs for that $$$!!! I got it down to about 30 mins each side....
 
my 03 ram 2500 2wd (it's got the big Dana in it) just lost its rear this past week my pinion bearing blew apart my truck s at elite vintage Auto getting fixed as I can't get down right now to fix it . I couldn't believe it truck only has 90xxx miles on it
 
my 03 ram 2500 2wd (it's got the big Dana in it) just lost its rear this past week my pinion bearing blew apart my truck s at elite vintage Auto getting fixed as I can't get down right now to fix it . I couldn't believe it truck only has 90xxx miles on it
Man that sucks...I'm sure that will cost a few$$$. 90k you would think it was just wearing in...I've been pretty lucky with mine, so far I have 320k on the odo, replaced 1 trans, 2 hubs, 1 lift pump & 1 h20 pump...I don't do a whole lot of towing mostly fwy driving...I've been waiting for the vp44 to crap the bad but knock on wood...I won't metion the crapiest dash ever made. Everyone told me when I bought the truck that it would fall apart before the motor would...
 
Well lucky for me Joe is a good friend and he's taking care of me on this . I swear the truck hit 90K and crap started falling apart. Brakes ,water pump upper lower control arm ,bushings ball joints ,hubs plugs wires boots ext.
Did you know the hemi has 16 freaking spark plug s at $3-$4 each.
I didn't buy the truck new I bought it with 85K on it it must of had one hell of a life before I got it . I do haul alot but I take it slow on it .
I didn't get a 4X4 because of there rep but I'm thinking they all were cheaply built. But I'll take it anyday over a ford
 
The diesel s are great wish I could afford one the hemi is OK good power and surprisingly good mpg it works for me for now I only payed $4500 for my truck
 
One recommendation I can make is a couple of years ago I invested in the Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors on all 4 corners w pads and have not had any issues... I think I paid $350-400 w/ pads. When I pulled the wheels the other day it looked like I had no pad wear...I was pretty impressed..
 
I actually just did that for towing.
Well Joe called me the kit they set him for my truck is wrong . He went to every single parts store looking for bearing s for my rear with no luck I called my friend that works at the dealership he looked and came back with the same parts we had. He says call the Mercedes dealership I did they looked it up and came up with a completely different part number kit so we ordered it and my god did they charge Mercedes prices , I said its a old ratty truck why are my bearings $140-$150each man my wife is going to kill me when she sees how much the truck repair cost . Normally I fix everything when I could this is the first big thing I subbed out she's never seen a shop bill before this might be entertaining.
 
I wonder if Ford would have those? They use the Danas also...man aren't you supposed to get a diner before that kind of screwing? I thought when the co-op with Daimler& Chrysler happened they would engineer some of the downfalls out.
Hope everything works out!
 
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If your truck doesn't have the DEF, run 1oz. of 2 stroke oil per gallon of fuel. Your injectors and VP44 will thank you.
 
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