Diet

[malex]

i hear you well whatever you decide i'm sure it will turn out great. have fun with the build maybe go on a vacation if you are trying to slow down lol. next question on the fury the wheelbase is 116 inches correct. my 64 is 119 here is my thought i have ss springs and the spring hangers are for a dodge. your hangers would be a inch shorter than a dodge correct. so why can't i drill the frame re location holes 1 inch inbound and with the motor plate installed should be set back another inch that can't be seen really by the naked eye unless you are a mopar guru. this would help in the horse power department don't you think or am i just over thinking this deal. thanks for everything. Barry

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Not sure I follow what you're saying but I think you mean moving the rear end forward? As far as being visible, gap between the tire and front of the wheel opening would be reduced. I know that I built brackets in stock location on my Polara but that was 25 years ago!

 

[malex]

i know i ask alot of questions and i'm sorry but what did you use for filler on the tubs?.

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Fibreglass filler over welded areas.

 

[bearman]

yep your right wheel opening gap would be smaller. its o.k. putting in relocation from us tool and sliders out back. thank you

 

[dvw]

Malex, on the Dart split the front of the 1/4 right on the outer corner of the wheel lip. Make a 2nd cut 1" forward at the bottom and carefully blend back to zero about 8" up. I used a french curve fro the art store. Then you just push the lip forward and end up welding on the corner of the wheel lip. Very little body work. Granted the inner needs to be split and rewelded also. With a nice curve it's undetectable. You'll be happier when you try to fit a 28-29' tire. Bearman, The firewall really moves back easy on a B-Body if you want to get aggressive with engine set back. A 2x4 on the fire wall, bottle jack with an extension on the K-frame. It does kink the firewall but its an easy fix. If it were e I'd cut the tunnel as well. Compare this pic to your firewall. This is before body work.
Doug

 

[bearman]

my concern is the shock towers i think i'm going to flip them. for more room with headers and easier for plug removal. i have made new shock towers that i can weld in in place of the factory ones and put flat sheet metal in after cutting out old towers all together. i have been playing around with idea for months just don't have the guts to cut them out yet. of course the front shocks would have to be a eyelet at top and bottom also would be a shorter shock overall. then put tube type upper control arms. my concern is getting the right shock to work correctly i need to measure what the length of the shock would be and then ask viking or someone if they have a shock.

 

[dvw]

With the wedge the towers don't really interfere. My toughest plug is #5.
Doug

 

[bearman]

thanks doug, if all i got to do is fight one plug i'm good with that. i can not thank you enough for taking the time and the great advice that you have giving to me. it really helps the project and the wallet to be able to ask you and other members for help. you and others that have been down this road and passing off to others and not even blinking about is just outstanding.so thank you again

 

[malex]

Malex, on the Dart split the front of the 1/4 right on the outer corner of the wheel lip. Make a 2nd cut 1" forward at the bottom and carefully blend back to zero about 8" up. I used a french curve fro the art store. Then you just push the lip forward and end up welding on the corner of the wheel lip. Very little body work. Granted the inner needs to be split and rewelded also. With a nice curve it's undetectable. You'll be happier when you try to fit a 28-29' tire. Bearman, The firewall really moves back easy on a B-Body if you want to get aggressive with engine set back. A 2x4 on the fire wall, bottle jack with an extension on the K-frame. It does kink the firewall but its an easy fix. If it were e I'd cut the tunnel as well. Compare this pic to your firewall. This is before body work.
DougView attachment 677541

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Great info on the front lip Doug, thanks! On the Dart that would work great!
When I did my 64 at the front of the lip I went straight up with my cut, then a 90 and cut back to the centre of the wheel well about an inch over the wheel arch. Slid the piece ahead about an inch and a bit, then fab'd and welded a small piece to fit in the gap. The stretched opening is sort of noticeable and the lip is welded to the flat of the tub at the front.

Now the problem I'm struggling with on the Dart is, do I stretch or do I raise them as well. My intention at this point is to make the Superstock look. I'm not worried about them turning out good. But cutting new AMD quarters is like cutting my arm off. So that is the 2nd biggest decision. The first / worst decision is colour.... again.

Perhaps I had better take a FBBO survey on this A body. To cut or not to cut.. I like this look and it has been the plan.

 

[dvw]

thanks doug, if all i got to do is fight one plug i'm good with that. i can not thank you enough for taking the time and the great advice that you have giving to me. it really helps the project and the wallet to be able to ask you and other members for help. you and others that have been down this road and passing off to others and not even blinking about is just outstanding.so thank you again

Happy to help. many Ideas on mine came from others. The more input you have the easier it is to build a good car.
Doug

 

[bearman]

The only thing to be superstock you must do the cut. But I like the tubbed look also. Tough call but either way going to be cool.

 

[dvw]

Cut it high
Doug

 

[Mike Gaines]

Do the cut and make the wheel well opening like the 68 Hemi Darts have...(like the orange/red car in the pix above)..the only way to do it.

 

[malex]

The only thing to be superstock you must do the cut. But I like the tubbed look also. Tough call but either way going to be cool.

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Do the cut and make the wheel well opening like the 68 Hemi Darts have...(like the orange/red car in the pix above)..the only way to do it.

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Think I'm doing the cut. The pros say to do it! Pretty much the same as in the orange Dart, some guys cut right up at the body line and that's getting too far. I narrowed the Dana so that my 15 X 12 rims will fit right. Outer sidewall just to the inside barely a smidge. My 526 has the same milodon pan as is on my 64 so it's gonna hang down a bit. No problem though, I intend on having the front up a ways and hemi scoop.