Disaster - Major Fuel Tank Issue

[Don67Satellite]

JMO but I would buy a Tanks Inc tank which doesn't use the standard sending unit... It uses a completely different design sender that actually works correctly...

The Tanks Inc tanks are intended for EFI but they sell a pick-up assembly for it that allows the tank to work with a carbureted vehicle...

What vehicle are you working on?

Sender I'm talking about... I've used four now & every one has been great...

View attachment 1637856

I'm thinking it's your Coronet
Tank.... TCR9C-T
Sender T- ORG-08 10-73 Ohm 8"
Pickup assy PTA-G
Hardware kit 3G-KIT

@1 Wild R/T I have a dumb question. If using that setup on a '67, the Tanks Inc TCR14-T, since the stock tank does not have the vent ports on the pickup or on top, would those just get blocked off along with the return port or ...??

I'm looking at replacing my tank and the setup you describe I am liking.

 

[Chargerjase]

Just replace the lock ring with a reproduction part, drop the tank and inspect it first and see if it's just the ring. I bought a whole bunch of new parts including a spectra tank when I had a fuel tank issue thinking the OE tank was destroyed with rust on the inside, turned out to be just the sock on the pickup tube had disintegrated and was plugging the carb filter. I just replaced the filter sock. Luckily I used summit so I was able to return all the extra parts I didn't need.

I will be dropping the tank today to fully inspect. I can clearly see a tear in the metal where the lock ring locks into. I am sure a new tank is in order. That will mean new hoses, clamps, sending unit, gas tank pad. It sure adds up, but it will be done properly. I will report back when I have pictures of everything.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

@1 Wild R/T I have a dumb question. If using that setup on a '67, the Tanks Inc TCR14-T, since the stock tank does not have the vent ports on the pickup or on top, would those just get blocked off along with the return port or ...??

I'm looking at replacing my tank and the setup you describe I am liking.

View attachment 1638326

You need the vent, it allows the tank to fill properly and allows air in to the tank to displace fuel as it is used... A tank without a vent will be sucked flat on a long road trip... The tank I found a picture of is a C2 Corvette, They plugged the vent...



The tank comes with a vent valve that you mount and run a hose to.. I mount them in the shock crossmember...

 

[kiwigtx]

You need the vent, it allows the tank to fill properly and allows air in to the tank to displace fuel as it is used... A tank without a vent will be sucked flat on a long road trip... The tank I found a picture of is a C2 Corvette, They plugged the vent...

View attachment 1638331

The tank comes with a vent valve that you mount and run a hose to.. I mount them in the shock crossmember...

The vent also allows the fuel to expand without blowing the tank out when the temperature increases. It doesn't take a lot of heat to make a tank blow out like a balloon.

 

[Don67Satellite]

OK, I thought that the '67 tank was already vented through here:

into the filler neck..?

It comes with a valve, ok, that's good.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

JMO but I would buy a Tanks Inc tank which doesn't use the standard sending unit... It uses a completely different design sender that actually works correctly...

The Tanks Inc tanks are intended for EFI but they sell a pick-up assembly for it that allows the tank to work with a carbureted vehicle...

What vehicle are you working on?

Sender I'm talking about... I've used four now & every one has been great...

View attachment 1637856

I'm thinking it's your Coronet
Tank.... TCR9C-T
Sender T- ORG-08 10-73 Ohm 8"
Pickup assy PTA-G
Hardware kit 3G-KIT

do you know if that sender can be used with a Spectra tank?

 

[Speedbird]

Today was a bit of a disastrous day for me. Yesterday, I pulled the fuel sending unit and discovered that is was a junk Chinese one that had replace the factory original. I tested it and realized it was a hopeless cause as the readings were vastly different than what they should be. I looked at the sender seal that was in the tank and figured I would install my new DMT one as that is best practice.

I have a proper tool, so no issues to reinstall. I did make a mistake though and did not lube up the lock ring. Fatal error.
It is hard to see there due to the rear end, but I felt it slide right back to the lock position. I figured for now, I will just live with the crappy sending unit unit I can find a good used or NOS factory original.

The cars rear end was up on ramps. I put 5 gallons back into the tank from my spare fuel container. I knew that it would take the fuel level above the sender seal. I left the car 24 hours to make sure there were no leaks. When I came back to it this morning, no sign of any leaks. I decided to go to the gas station and fill her up and make 100% sure that all was well.

I started to fill her up watching for leaks and there were none. Just as I got the 19 gallons into the tank, fuel started to pour out of the sending unit seal. This is the worst possible situation. I am at the gas station and gas is pouring out all over the forecourt.

I was able to quickly siphon enough to get back down to a level where the leak stopped. After the dust had settled, I realized what happened.

View attachment 1637800

View attachment 1637799

The tank lock ring holder split, the full tank of gas built up enough pressure to push the seal out and the result was what you see above. Its the original tank, so I can say it's had a life.

So, I am asking advice from the members here, what should I do? I have to pull the tank no matter what. Is it a dumb idea to try and weld that? I am thinking that it would be stupid to not get a new tank. If I buy a new tank, what company is the best? I have had great dealings from Jeff from 521 Restorations in the past, but I want a quality tank, not a junk one.

All inputs welcome please.

I did not see which car you need a tank for.
But it is a good thing to hear you understand this is a safety item and quality is important.
From my experience, reproduction tanks don't necessarily have the same quality of galvanizing as the originals.
For that reason alone, I'll only install stainless tanks if possible.
The last one I bought for a Road Runner was from Classic and it was FT6011c.
Absolutely no issues with that tank.
Another good one was for a 67 Charger. It was stainless and had the correct vent lines unlike a previous non stainless one I bought.
The records went with that car, but I think it was from VANS.
If VANS has what you need, it will be a good product.
I've never had trouble with seals.
But I have had to fight lock rings especially on "new" installations.
I think replacing a unit with the tank in the car is likely to cause problems.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

66-67 Dodge B bodies have a vented cap. That big vent line is only for filling the tank. 66- 67 Pymouth B bodys have a small vent line in the fuel filler in the trunk which then goes through the trunk floor, and a non vented cap.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

do you know if that sender can be used with a Spectra tank?

No, it's a completely different design..

 

[Don67Satellite]

66-67 Dodge B bodies have a vented cap. That big vent line is only for filling the tank. 66- 67 Pymouth B bodys have a small vent line in the fuel filler in the trunk which then goes through the trunk floor, and a non vented cap.

Yes, I clearly need to get underneath and look at it closely. Thanks for the clarification.

I figured it was already venting somehow or I guess the factory tank would have collapsed in on itself by now.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

That big vent line ends just below the filler cap and there is a double tube at the top, the vent is on the outside and the pump nozzle fits in the inside. As the fuel goes in the inside, it vents on the outside. With the cap on it is sealed up tight except for the vented cap on dodges and the little vent line on plymouths.

 

[Don67Satellite]

OK, seems clear now that the tank gets its venting (as it empties or builds any pressure) from the skinny line that goes from the top of the filler to the underside of the trunk.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

That being the case you can probaly plug the vent nipple on the tank.... But on the other hand it comes with the tank & it won't hurt anything...

 

[Don67Satellite]

Between the fuel leak that I haven't solved with the current tank, new gaskets, lock rings & senders, to the gauge being off, it's time for an upgrade I think and this system seems to be checking the boxes. Not trying to win any originality awards with this old girl anyhow.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Though honestly the tank looks pretty correct other than the fact it is powder coated silver instead of bare metal.... When I put the first one in I used the float style sender & it was just as bad as all the others... Then I saw a video about the floatless sender & read some reviews... I figured I was already this deep, might as well see if swapping senders would make the gauge work... I put it in & hooked it up... And for the first time in years I had a gauge that works...

Tried it on a second car & had the same result... Shocked... Third time? Perfect... Forth? Almost getting to the point I trust these things...

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

No, it's a completely different design..

so the only way to use a floatless is to buy the Tanks Inc tank? I wish there was a way to retrofit my fairly new Spectra tank.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

so the only way to use a floatless is to buy the Tanks Inc tank? I wish there was a way to retrofit my fairly new Spectra tank.

Well, you could cut out a section & weld/solder in a stepped down plate with the five bolt pattern... But trying to adapter the stock location won't work... The stock sender attaches to an angled spot of the front of the tank, the float less design goes in vertical...

Stock design

VS Tanks Inc. Design...

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Well, you could cut out a section & weld/solder in a stepped down plate with the five bolt pattern... But trying to adapter the stock location won't work... The stock sender attaches to an angled spot of the front of the tank, the float less design goes in vertical...

Stock design
View attachment 1638697

VS Tanks Inc. Design...

View attachment 1638694

Thanks. For a time I had a custom aluminum tank from Hot Rod Garage out of LA that looked like that Tanks Inc tank, but it leaked like crazy out of one of the top round seals. I had a shop drop the tank 4 times and try to get it to seal and no luck. It would pass a water leak test, but then once installed with the engine running it would leak out the top. So I said screw it and installed a Spectra tank and have had no leak issues, but I sure would love to use that new style sender. I remember reading about them last year. I recall that Dennis Harris also runs a Tanks Inc tank and is very happy with it.

 

[cosgig]

Just replace the lock ring with a reproduction part, drop the tank and inspect it first and see if it's just the ring. I bought a whole bunch of new parts including a spectra tank when I had a fuel tank issue thinking the OE tank was destroyed with rust on the inside, turned out to be just the sock on the pickup tube had disintegrated and was plugging the carb filter. I just replaced the filter sock. Luckily I used summit so I was able to return all the extra parts I didn't need.

I think it’s the seat on the tank that’s the problem, not the lock ring itself.

 

[Chargerjase]

Well, you could cut out a section & weld/solder in a stepped down plate with the five bolt pattern... But trying to adapter the stock location won't work... The stock sender attaches to an angled spot of the front of the tank, the float less design goes in vertical...

Stock design
View attachment 1638697

VS Tanks Inc. Design...

View attachment 1638694

I would look at running one of those tanks with the sender, but Tanks Inc don't do a tank for ECS with 4 vents. If I was to convert to non ECS, what would I need to do to make it work?