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Disaster - Major Fuel Tank Issue

Check the amount of spot welds on the pickup retainer ring on the tank some of the Chinese ones have half the original spot welds when you go to lock up the ring & seal the ring section on the tank pull's away from the tank
 
For the ones using the stock senders, the replacement lock rings and seals suck sometimes. The rings can be thinner and softer material. Seals can be thinner too. Keep the stock ring if possible or find a good used oe one. Don't know about the seal. Maybe others will chime in with info on good ones.
 
New tank is on order. As soon as it comes in I will document the changeover in this thread. Decided to go with the Tanks Inc tank and sender as suggested by @1 Wild R/T

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I tried to find stock components to go back in but its very difficult to get them. Spectra have discontinued their ECS tank and finding a decent sending unit is nearly impossible. I thought I found one for $400 but it was sold. I could have used a non ECS tank, but in the end decided to use the Tanks Inc sender as well. Looking forward to an accurate gas gauge reading lol.
what was the ballpark total cost in parts for your recent order? I've been thinking about a Tanks Inc with this sending unit for a few years now.
 
what was the ballpark total cost in parts for your recent order? I've been thinking about a Tanks Inc with this sending unit for a few years now.
Bear in mind that this is for a 70 Coronet, but the prices should be very close

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Hope this helps. Its a great system and the gauge is accurate. Only slip issue is tgat the gauge will swing a little, but at least you know how much gas you have in the tank.
 
Bear in mind that this is for a 70 Coronet, but the prices should be very close

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Hope this helps. Its a great system and the gauge is accurate. Only slip issue is tgat the gauge will swing a little, but at least you know how much gas you have in the tank.
that's some great pricing. And this tank has internal baffling?
 
Update:

Everything is still awesome with the tank, but I did not have 100% luck with the float-less sender and my stock dash gauge.

At FULL it will not go past 3/4, and at EMPTY, there is still approx. 25L left in the tank.

I am chocking this problem up to age of the gauge, rather than an issue with the sender which is the proper 73/10 ohm. I really have never had the stock gauge functioning much since I have had the car anyhow.

In my gauge pod under the dash, an Auto Meter 3315 has been doing the fuel measurement duties for some time since the old tank/sender never read right anyhow. It is basically "made for Mopar" as it is a 73/10 ohm gauge.

Hooking the Auto Meter up shows me full on a fresh fill up. Yet to see how the trickle to empty will go, but will get to in the next few days.

With all that said, having no more fuel leaks/stink & the ability to "fill 'er up" is the best part. If the 3315 works out, I can live with that until a time when I can have my gauge cluster restored.
 
Update:

Everything is still awesome with the tank, but I did not have 100% luck with the float-less sender and my stock dash gauge.

At FULL it will not go past 3/4, and at EMPTY, there is still approx. 25L left in the tank.

I am chocking this problem up to age of the gauge, rather than an issue with the sender which is the proper 73/10 ohm. I really have never had the stock gauge functioning much since I have had the car anyhow.

In my gauge pod under the dash, an Auto Meter 3315 has been doing the fuel measurement duties for some time since the old tank/sender never read right anyhow. It is basically "made for Mopar" as it is a 73/10 ohm gauge.

Hooking the Auto Meter up shows me full on a fresh fill up. Yet to see how the trickle to empty will go, but will get to in the next few days.

With all that said, having no more fuel leaks/stink & the ability to "fill 'er up" is the best part. If the 3315 works out, I can live with that until a time when I can have my gauge cluster restored.
That's wonderful news, thanks for the update! My stock non-ralley gauge is wonky and never goes past half way at full. I bought a 3315 like you and would like to hook it up. How did you do so without cutting the harness wire cluster connection that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster? Or do have both gauges hooked up at the same time (which I thought could maybe cause a reading error).
 
That's wonderful news, thanks for the update! My stock non-ralley gauge is wonky and never goes past half way at full. I bought a 3315 like you and would like to hook it up. How did you do so without cutting the harness wire cluster connection that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster? Or do have both gauges hooked up at the same time (which I thought could maybe cause a reading error).

According to the Tanks Inc instructions, the float-less sender will run one gauge only at a time, but I haven't tested trying to run both.

I didn't cut any wires on the cluster. I have the 3315 in a pod, I had an old electric fuel pump power wire that ran to the back of the car up to the firewall that I repurposed for the white wire from sender to gauge.

Black sender ground wire to the frame.

Hooked up power/grounds/lights to the gauge. Done.

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As you mentioned, it seems to indicate your stock gauge is screwy. Did you measure your float less sender before install with an ohm meter? I am sure it's correct, but just to be sure. My stock gauge reads perfect with my Tanks Inc sender. Everything is stock on my car except now the sender and tank.
 
As you mentioned, it seems to indicate your stock gauge is screwy. Did you measure your float less sender before install with an ohm meter? I am sure it's correct, but just to be sure. My stock gauge reads perfect with my Tanks Inc sender. Everything is stock on my car except now the sender and tank.
No leaks from the sender lock-ring? :thumbsup:
 
Did you measure your float less sender before install with an ohm meter? I am sure it's correct, but just to be sure.

I did not measure it before install, :BangHead: , should have, but unless it is somehow faulty, it was the correct sender/ohms by the numbers stamped on it.

I will have the car out a few times this week, so will see how the Auto Meter gauge goes.
 
Update:

Autometer 3315 gauge is not that accurate either. Took a long time to hit 3/4, then dropped much quicker between there and 1/4, so decided to play around with all the connections and even pulled my dash out and cleaned all the connectors on the circuit board for the fuel gauge as well as the ones on the plug. Then made sure the plug was properly/fully seated when I reassembled the dash.

At this point, plugged the floatless back into the factory gauge wire and turned the key. Got some movement to just a sliver above the "E".

Now the tank is not full, I have been out and about. But I was thinking that I should have around 1/4 tank left, but that's just me imagining that my 440 gets 10 MPG, and I have put on 150 miles since I filled up.

So I decided I would go to the gas station and fill 'er up! Well, lets just say, she was thirsty!! My new 19 gallon tank holds 72L of fuel, and I put in 67L, so I really only had a little over 1 gallon of fuel left in the tank.

My brain starts doing some calculations but I get distracted, by my fuel gauge...

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It now seems to have found new territory again above the 3/4 mark!! I'm thinking I will leave it on the stock gauge now, and see how it goes.

But then my brain comes back to 150 miles, 19 gallons, got 1 gallon left, so that means I'm getting approximately 8.3MPG!! :eek:

I think I read somewhere it's not the miles per gallon, but the smiles per gallon.

I'm just happy the dash gauge seems to be functioning properly now.
 
Thats awesome Don. The stock gauge looks the best and it's great that it appears to be functioning normally now. Yep, we don't play with these old Mopars for their fuel efficiency, so stick to the smiles per gallon and you can't go wrong. :thumbsup:
 
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