Disc Brake Swap Rotor 11 or 11.75?
- Thread starter mrmolding
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autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
Tell us how it stops now.
Still trying to get the power booster bolt out without removing dash. Got a flex extension on order. But I’ll update when it’s on the road.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
My experience with Flex extensions is they suck, as long as your just spinning a nut/bolt not loosening or tightening they are okay but don't try to apply any significant torque...
My choice for booster bolts (and I've R&R'd a lot of boosters) 1/4" drive deep socket 1/4" drive swivel, 1/4" drive 12-14" extension & a long handled rachet... Remove the seat... Might even remove the steering wheel just cause it's easy & the extra room is nice... Bring a good flashlight & lay under the dash.... Remove the hard one first & reinstall it last...
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I always leave those thin splash shields off my cars. They trap heat and since I don't drive the cars in the mud, they serve no purpose.
Thanks! I'll try that tomorrow. I've taken out the dash and dropped the column five times to find a gremlin and it was crappy ignition switch. I could have dropped the column by now with all of the attempts in the past day.
I have three nuts off, just that last upper right stubborn nut.
East coast transplant after 50 years and now out west. Agreed I probably don't need out here.
I do what 1 wild R/T does but use 3/8" drive and put electrical tape around u-joint. Just enough to keep from flopping around.
moes
Well-Known Member
The larger 11.75 rotor has 1/3 more surface area then the 10.95 rotor. The 11.75 rotor can absorb more thermal energy then the 10.95 rotor will and you get around 20-25 percent more stopping power. You will notice the difference!
Frictional clamping force from the caliper can only practically be increased so much so as to not dramatically increase rotor wear and pad wear. A larger rotor can more easily stop the car than a smaller rotor given the *same* frictional surface area *and* clamping force. A simple analogy turn you ceiling fan on high - get it going good and fast - then try stopping it by using your hand as close to the motor as you can and time how long it takes. Next, with you remaining working hand start the fan again and try stopping it from the edge of the fan blade. Note the difference and ease of performing it from the edge.
This is why they installed the 11.75 rotor on the C body cars back in the late 60s, 440 + big heavy car, makes for a hard time stopping.
Frictional clamping force from the caliper can only practically be increased so much so as to not dramatically increase rotor wear and pad wear. A larger rotor can more easily stop the car than a smaller rotor given the *same* frictional surface area *and* clamping force. A simple analogy turn you ceiling fan on high - get it going good and fast - then try stopping it by using your hand as close to the motor as you can and time how long it takes. Next, with you remaining working hand start the fan again and try stopping it from the edge of the fan blade. Note the difference and ease of performing it from the edge.
This is why they installed the 11.75 rotor on the C body cars back in the late 60s, 440 + big heavy car, makes for a hard time stopping.
I got it loose. Just need something to get it completely out. Thanks!
ckessel
Well-Known Member
One of the very reasons I have multiple variations of ratchets/sockets/extensions/universals/wrenches etc plus some customized, one use only tools. Even then I sometimes have an issue to work around. Problem solving 101 at its finest!
My 19 year old tried last night for 30 minutes who put it on there three years ago. Going to give it one more try and then drop the column.
The disc/Hellwig sway bar/cbody tie rod upgrade was easier than this bolt! Figured I'd do all of my "some day" upgrades as well. The pic is a test fit. Going to finish painting the back of caliper. Maybe.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
And customers would seem shocked when I wanted two hours to R&R a booster....
Two hours? You are a magician!
I've been at it for four. Again, I could have had everything out and back in by now. Soon, the column will be out.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
When I changed the plugs on the wagon, I needed multiple combo's to get them out. Even had to get my Gear Wrench socket set out.
Plugs are in the same realm as the booster bolts. Watched my friend change plugs on his 351 Cleveland recently and only the ease of access made me jealous.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
I could do it considerably faster when I was younger but I'm old & slow & don't feel like it's worth hurting myself...Two hours? You are a magician!
I had one guy who bought one of those CPP boosters, it was bad, the replacement was bad, the second replacement was bad... I was able to convince him to use a OE booster & have it rebuilt...
So I changed his booster four times.... He thought I should eat three of the R&R's.... I'm not the one who bought the CPP booster in the first place, I warned him up front that they have problems... Uhhh, No!!
Chargered
Well-Known Member
Just curious, where did you order the 11.75 brackets from?
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
Doc Diff has the slider style.... The pin style ya gotten deal with "The Ram Man".. I prefer not to do business with him so that would be a no....
DrDiff they are repros
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