Do I need a new Pitman arm?

[Coelacanth]

I was under the front end to double-check the routing of my new fuel lines and checked the steering components for play. Everything was tight except for the Pitman arm link. I noticed right away something was amiss because there were no cotter pins on the castle nuts for the Pitman arm and link, and the one on the Pitman arm was loose. I went to tighten it and the Pitman arm stud simply spun with the nut, so there's no way to tighten it. This means a new Pitman arm, correct?

 

[eldubb440]

put a jack under the center link and push it up onto the taper, this should keep it from spinning......... tighten it up, and then check it for play; it's likely fine........ cleaning any boogers off the threads will help also

then check everything else, someone was less than diligent when putting things together

 

[Don Frelier]

And install cotter pins, then grease that sucker.

 

[Coelacanth]

put a jack under the center link and push it up onto the taper, this should keep it from spinning......... tighten it up, and then check it for play; it's likely fine........ cleaning any boogers off the threads will help also

then check everything else, someone was less than diligent when putting things together

Thanks, I'll check into that. This is the first time I've been really under the car in over a decade. I installed a new fuel tank, rear shocks and stainless fuel and return lines. I'm pleased that the rear of the car looks good but I'm noticing these oopsies made by previous mechanics. I don't know why 2 castle nuts were installed without cotter pins. Here's another oopsie I discovered: There was a missing bolt on the front of the transmission plate. So, I get a bolt to install and it won't thread in. I pressed a Q-tip inside the hole to clean it up and it won't go inside, as if there's no threaded hole. I suspect there's a broken bolt inside and I'll have to get it out. Fortunately nothing is leaking there.

EDIT: I also noticed the brake lines hanging down a bit more than I think they ought to.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Get the nut off then inspect every thing. The center link could be pounded out.

 

[eldubb440]

Thanks, I'll check into that. This is the first time I've been really under the car in over a decade. I installed a new fuel tank, rear shocks and stainless fuel and return lines. I'm pleased that the rear of the car looks good but I'm noticing these oopsies made by previous mechanics. I don't know why 2 castle nuts were installed without cotter pins. Here's another oopsie I discovered: There was a missing bolt on the front of the transmission plate. So, I get a bolt to install and it won't thread in. I pressed a Q-tip inside the hole to clean it up and it won't go inside, as if there's no threaded hole. I suspect there's a broken bolt inside and I'll have to get it out. Fortunately nothing is leaking there.

View attachment 1724021

that's just to keep the dirt out.......not critical

 

[Coelacanth]

Get the nut off then inspect every thing. The center link could be pounded out.

Everything feels tight other than the Pitman arm, because of the nut practically falling off.

 

[RemCharger]

Thanks, I'll check into that. This is the first time I've been really under the car in over a decade. I installed a new fuel tank, rear shocks and stainless fuel and return lines. I'm pleased that the rear of the car looks good but I'm noticing these oopsies made by previous mechanics. I don't know why 2 castle nuts were installed without cotter pins. Here's another oopsie I discovered: There was a missing bolt on the front of the transmission plate. So, I get a bolt to install and it won't thread in. I pressed a Q-tip inside the hole to clean it up and it won't go inside, as if there's no threaded hole. I suspect there's a broken bolt inside and I'll have to get it out. Fortunately nothing is leaking there.

EDIT: I also noticed the brake lines hanging down a bit more than I think they ought to.

View attachment 1724021

You mean transmission cooler lines

 

[Coelacanth]

You mean transmission cooler lines

Thanks, my bad. I'll see what can be done to pull them up. I bought a 30-pack of stainless steel zip-ties that seem to work pretty good for tying things up and are very strong, compared to nylon zip-ties.

 

[R413]

They had the drag link off the pitman arm to remove the oil pan.

Remove that castle nut and make sure the threads are good and lubricated.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I was under the front end to double-check the routing of my new fuel lines and checked the steering components for play. Everything was tight except for the Pitman arm link. I noticed right away something was amiss because there were no cotter pins on the castle nuts for the Pitman arm and link, and the one on the Pitman arm was loose. I went to tighten it and the Pitman arm stud simply spun with the nut, so there's no way to tighten it. This means a new Pitman arm, correct?

View attachment 1724012

That pitman arm doesn't look right. If tighten down it looks like it would hit tie rod end. Did it get torched at the end or oily? Is the interference an optical illusion from picture angle?

 

[Coelacanth]

That pitman arm doesn't look right. If tighten down it looks like it would hit tie rod end. Did it get torched at the end or oily? Is the interference an optical illusion from picture angle?

I think it's the camera angle. I can get a better pic tonight to confirm but I'm pretty sure it's not obstructing the tie rod end. I took the pic from a more central position under the car pointing towards the Pitman arm.

 

[1KoolBee]

If the tapered hole in center link for the pitman arm is damaged/wallowed out, you’ll have to replace the center link too.

 

[Coelacanth]

Well, I think I need a new Pitman arm. I jacked up the center link just enough so it started to lift up tight against the Pitman arm and start lifting the car a bit. It was enough for me to remove the castle nut, clean up the threads and thread it back on, but as soon as the nut started to bite, the Pitman stud spun with the nut. It's definitely not supposed to do that as there's no way to stop it from turning. My only accomplishment for the night was installing a cotter pin on the inner tie rod end that was also missing one. Looking for a quick ratio longer Pitman arm now. From what I've read, I shouldn't need the full kit with matching Idler arm because that only really affects parking lot tight-radius steering.

 

[1KoolBee]

Well, I think I need a new Pitman arm. I jacked up the center link just enough so it started to lift up tight against the Pitman arm and start lifting the car a bit. It was enough for me to remove the castle nut, clean up the threads and thread it back on, but as soon as the nut started to bite, the Pitman stud spun with the nut. It's definitely not supposed to do that as there's no way to stop it from turning. My only accomplishment for the night was installing a cotter pin on the inner tie rod end that was also missing one. Looking for a quick ratio longer Pitman arm now. From what I've read, I shouldn't need the full kit with matching Idler arm because that only really affects parking lot tight-radius steering.

If the tapered hole in the center link and/or the stud was not damaged, the stud would not spin when pressure is applied to the center link. You might try a new pitman arm to see if it fits tight in center link, but I would not risk not replacing center link if there is any question on fit. Bad fit =eventual snapped stud = wild ride. Good luck!

 

[Coelacanth]

I'll try my impact wrench tonight. I've been just using a wrench thus far.

 

[LowBikeMike]

Does the nut have the proper thread pitch?

 

[Coelacanth]

Does the nut have the proper thread pitch?

I have to assume so, and it just worked itself loose because a cotter pin was never inserted, either on the Pitman arm nut or tie rod end. I was driving the car up until about 2003 and it was fine up until that point, and has been sitting in the garage ever since. The last time it even started was about 12 years ago, but it wasn't driven.

 

[Kern Dog]

The ball joints, tie rod ends, idler and Pitman all use a ball and socket type of construction. They are designed to rotate/swivel within the housing by a limited amount. Once the parts wear to the point where the fit is sloppy, you need a new one. I'd think that if the stud is loose enough to easily rotate by hand, it is worn out and should be replaced.
Also, I wouldn't use a Fast Ratio Pitman without the matching Idler arm. Here is a secret....the Idler for a 1970 Polara works and is cheaper than the ones labeled as "Fast Ratio".

 

[Ron H]

Had an issue with a pitman. After engine rebuild adding headers, FFII, started hearing what sounded like a tuning fork noise when moving the steering wheel after the car was hot after a good drive. Getting under the car, noticed the pitman zerk was sheared off marring the T-bar. And the header had a gash in it from the cross-link playing the violin on it when headers expanding from heat. Got it on a lift at a bud’s shop noticing a slight un-level set with the cross-link, so slightly higher on the left where the damage was. Noticed a slight cock with the pitman, suggested getting a new pitman. Got a new one from vendor Mobileparts on here and it took care of the problem. Likely the original arm was worn after 59-years. As it is with my ride having headers, the clearance is really tight, less than ¼” from the header and so little room with the pitman zerk. Worst lube point using a right-angle grease fitting for that one.