gearwrench from Amazon is good stuff for the money.
Do you drop steering column to install brake pushrod? 67 belvedere
- Thread starter TheRealDavid
- Start date
YY1
Well-Known Member
Those Stanley brand medium depth (not advertised as such) sockets are the perfect depth to use on the long-ish studs on the MC but still allow clearance of the ratchet in the tight quarters under the dash.
1FYNBEL
Active Member
I’m going through this (brake light switch) right now and am so frustrated, I’m ready to throw S**t and break things. This is the biggest PITA I have dealt with on this car; all for a $2 part. I have tried everything, except dropping the column. I have a column shifter, so I guess that damn thing needs to come apart.
TheRealDavid
Active Member
You're replacing the brake light switch? I have a column shifter as well. Yeah it essentially took a lot of patience for me to get it done and a few bruises and scratches on my back. The ratcheting wrenches helped a ton. Like people mentioned in the previous comments, you may also want to remove the seat, which I didn't do, but can see why that would help.
I’ve not needed to drop the column replacing the brake light switch; but could be some different setup with your ride. Not knowing your situation, are you sure your switch needs replacing, as opposed to just some adjustment and/or centering? If it is off adjustment the lights may stay on as the pedal arm isn’t coming back far enough to fully depress the switch button. What has helped me is disconnecting the pedal arm to let it hang free to remove and install. There’s a sweet spot here, needing just a bit of free-play on the pedal in its ‘home’ position (when connected) this being not binding up against the switch as its ‘end’ point.
Ok, not sure if this is your hassle, so just tossing it out. In my younger days I could do some under dash work without taking the seat out…now it’s a must at my age.
1FYNBEL
Active Member
I will buy some ratcheting combo wrenches and give those a try. I feel better having walked away and mowing the grass . The switch is definitely bad; the plunger is pushing the guts out the back of the switch housing.
TheRealDavid
Active Member
Yeah man, I had to walk away and come back too cause I was losing my cool and that just leads to more problems. I don't know if I could have done it without the ratcheting wrenches while the column and the seat still in place. I'm a big dude.
What kinda car you working on? I've never replaced a brake light switch, I know some cars it looks like it's no sweat at all.
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
I can do it seat in and column in,
But it sure aint as easy as it was 40 years ago
I just did a booster swap on a 66 Coronet.
Seat was out for floor pans replacement, but column was still in.
it helps I have a 1/4 inch drive deep flex socket and a 1/4inch 2ft long extension just for the 2 upper master cylinder nuts
But it sure aint as easy as it was 40 years ago
I just did a booster swap on a 66 Coronet.
Seat was out for floor pans replacement, but column was still in.
it helps I have a 1/4 inch drive deep flex socket and a 1/4inch 2ft long extension just for the 2 upper master cylinder nuts
1FYNBEL
Active Member
I’m working on my ‘67 Belvedere Convertible.
I did find the solution; bought some stubby ratcheting wrenches. They make the job so much less frustrating. If you need to replace a brake light switch on one of these cars, do yourself a favor and pick up a set BEFORE you start. Your knuckles, blood pressure, and sanity will thank you.
I did find the solution; bought some stubby ratcheting wrenches. They make the job so much less frustrating. If you need to replace a brake light switch on one of these cars, do yourself a favor and pick up a set BEFORE you start. Your knuckles, blood pressure, and sanity will thank you.
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