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Dodge A12 Bee finally getting attention!

Have you checked for a broadcast sheet, doubtful it survived but you never know.
 
Have you checked for a broadcast sheet, doubtful it survived but you never know.
I just did. I was laughing because I removed the arm rests and they had cigarette butts and a soda/beer can pull tab that must’ve been in there since the ‘70’s.
There were only a few shreds of the sheet left. It was there, but mice got to it when they shredded the seat padding to build a nest inside the right front fender.
Bummer.
 
Swap on as many correct parts as you can find, gather as many better parts as you can find but avoid a complete rest unless you feel shoving needles under your fingernails is a good time...

Put a trunk floor in it, repaint the engine compartment, swap on an unmodified A12 hood.... Replace the worst parts with better parts but restoring it will not be nearly as much fun...

Trust me, I've restored enough cars, I love a fresh shiny restored car but when driving it your always stressed to a certain level..

Plus getting anyone to do work for a reasonable cost or in a reasonable length of time is about as likely as the Titanic pulling into New York next week..
100% TRUTH... Just sold an A12 Bee been im family since new. Restored once. Finally sold to AUSTRALIA for good.. Now for a DRIVER car.. Easiest $140,000 Ive made since Baghdad Mint 2005
 
This has got to be the same car

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This has got to be the same car

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It’s not, but it’s creepy it’s so close! Texas tags are different and the hood is different. And my front bumper is trashed from being towed by it. Mine doesn’t have that triangle in the grille and has a small dent in the left front fender near the headlight that’s been there since at least 1982.
 
Final decision made. I want to drive it, but I want a fresh start.

So, I’m stripping it down. It’s going to the sand blaster, then the restoration shop for a new trunk floor and some minor rust and dent repairs, a new rear crossmember/shock mount, and subframe connectors.

It’ll be sealed in epoxy, then repainted with BC/CC.

I plan on swapping in disc brakes in the front.

Original block and trans will be stored. For driving, it’ll get a rebuilt 440 with fuel injection and a Tremec 5 speed.

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Final decision made. I want to drive it, but I want a fresh start.

So, I’m stripping it down. It’s going to the sand blaster, then the restoration shop for a new trunk floor and some minor rust and dent repairs, a new rear crossmember/shock mount, and subframe connectors.

It’ll be sealed in epoxy, then repainted with BC/CC.

I plan on swapping in disc brakes in the front.

Original block and trans will be stored. For driving, it’ll get a rebuilt 440 with fuel injection and a Tremec 5 speed.

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you're at the critical point.....but I strongly suggest consulting with the "restorer" before sending it out for any blasting........ for a few reasons

1, it's easy to destroy good, useable metal
2, much of the needed blasting is behind metal that will eventually get cut out
3, personally, I cringe whenever a car "goes to the blaster".......the "blaster" doesn't understand any of this and just wants to be paid
I prefer the "blast as you go" technique ......
if the "restorer" doesn't do his own blasting, the job suffers....... that is my opinion, but is pretty much based in fact

take a look here, it's a detailed look at what things could and should be
pay attention to my posts, the thread gets a little cluttered
just a little off the back and sides please
 
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I'm glad it isn't going back to OEM. Your thoughts or as it was raced are cool. So much more history and interesting, as raced.
 
you're at the critical point.....but I strongly suggest consulting with the "restorer" before sending it out for any blasting........ for a few reasons

1, it's easy to destroy good, useable metal
2, much of the needed blasting is behind metal that will eventually get cut out
3, personally, I cringe whenever a car "goes to the blaster".......the "blaster" doesn't understand any of this and just wants to be paid
I prefer the "blast as you go" technique ......
if the "restorer" doesn't do his own blasting, the job suffers....... that is my opinion, but is pretty much based in fact

take a look here, it's a detailed look at what things could and should be
pay attention to my posts, the thread gets a little cluttered
just a little off the back and sides please
What he aught to do is take the drive to your shop & talk to a guy that knows Mopars...
 
What he aught to do is take the drive to your shop & talk to a guy that knows Mopars...

I'm not the only one, but yes...... one of my pet peeves is when the TV shows send a car out for blasting, and they waste it blasting the shitty metal :cursin:
 
3rd try to attach a pic…

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That would be the lower grille support, and I would imagine that any number of them can be readily found to replace that. However, I would leave that car just the way it is, do as mentioned above and out all of the missing and original parts back on it, get it running, and drive the heck out of it. You will get so much appreciation for that car in its “as found” condition. Return it to what came from the factory, but with all of the battle scars it’s wearing from a lifetime of being what it is now. My car is worse off than that one by quite a bit, but I get told all the time…”don’t ever restore this car, it’s too cool the way it is”. If I buy something for my car, I make sure it’s in line with the patina of my car. I even asked the license plate guy to send me his #2 or #3 condition plates, I didn’t want em too shiny. As for worrying about the value, I believe the value of a car is in its enjoyment that the owner receives from it. My car was made to beat the crap out of it, and that’s just what I do. How could you have that car and not want to do the same?

In the end, it’s your car and it has to please you, and we will support you and the car either way!
 
you're at the critical point.....but I strongly suggest consulting with the "restorer" before sending it out for any blasting........ for a few reasons

1, it's easy to destroy good, useable metal
2, much of the needed blasting is behind metal that will eventually get cut out
3, personally, I cringe whenever a car "goes to the blaster".......the "blaster" doesn't understand any of this and just wants to be paid
I prefer the "blast as you go" technique ......
if the "restorer" doesn't do his own blasting, the job suffers....... that is my opinion, but is pretty much based in fact

take a look here, it's a detailed look at what things could and should be
pay attention to my posts, the thread gets a little cluttered
just a little off the back and sides please

I appreciate all that. I’ve been asking for tips and recommended shops for awhile. I contemplated Graveyard Cars and my brother even admitted to calling Overhauled. They told him they wouldn’t guarantee using the original engine, so he told them to forget it.
I even tried to find a place that dipped cars to strip them.
It’s not going to an industrial sand blaster. The car is very clean and only needs to be stripped for painting - mainly the underneath to get rid of the old undercoating. I probably shouldn’t use “blasting” as a generic term for stripping it. I’ve even seen people use 80-grit in a dual-action sander to get to the metal!
The trunk is gone, but not from water damage. There was a battery in the trunk when I towed it to my mothers when I had to report overseas. I didn’t make it back for 7 years. The battery had tipped over and leaked out - taking out the trunk floor and fuel tank.
The rear cross member was ripped out racing. I hear that was common. It was welded back on with a stick welder by someone that obviously had never welded or even soldered or brazed before. That’ll be removed and replaced.
This shop I’m working with has been doing this kind of work for over 10 years and is doing a gorgeous Dart right now.

I deliver it tomorrow and I’m a nervous wreck!
 
Car was dropped off at restoration shop. It will be soda-blasted. Original glass is being carefully removed now. Rear glass done. Windshield Monday.

Block went to machine shop yesterday. It will be deburred, decks equalized, align honed, oil passages opened, oil pickup enlarged from 3/8” to 1/2” (Hemi size), and bored .030 over.
 
It’s very solid but has a hard life. The original owner bought it to race and at one point broke the rear shock mount crossmember out and hack welded it back in. The sheet metal in the trunk over that crossmember is actually torn!
Strange, I was just under mine and it also had the rear shock blow thru the trunk a before I got it,
Had to to straighten it out, the can is there to block the squirrels.|
BTW im bringing this back to life, High School car and hasn't seen the road in 30 years.
Went from Yellow to Blue then Red, Im thinking of taking it back to yellow or maybe some shade of modern yellow.


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Strange, I was just under mine and it also had the rear shock blow thru the trunk a before I got it,
Had to to straighten it out, the can is there to block the squirrels.|
BTW im bringing this back to life, High School car and hasn't seen the road in 30 years.
Went from Yellow to Blue then Red, Im thinking of taking it back to yellow or maybe some shade of modern yellow.


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That's sweet! It would be great as yellow. I'll always remember the car that sucked me in, when it was, where I was, and what happened. The neighbor across the street bought a new 1969 Roadrunner. It was yellow with black stripes. I was 7 that summer. I was sitting out front watching cars go by. He backed out into the street and let it rip! I had never seen as car spin tires like that! And the sound!! I started counting the years until I'd be 16 and could get one of those cars for myself!!
 
Loader— that is how the dream begins!
Sadly a lot of kids don’t get that experience ... my icing on the cake was a 383 4 spd lime green Challenger convertible with a really lumpy cam — I left the Ford camp and joined the boys!
 
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