Did you unplug the switch? If so did the problem go away?
Dome light
- Thread starter Gus chiggins
- Start date
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
Ok, here is what i did. I unplugged the four pin connector to the console. I'm thinking that somewhere in the console wiring could be the problem. When i unplugged the 4 pin connector the dome light shut off when the door jamb switch was closed. Maybe a ground problem. Btw, i swapped out the headlight switch, and i have dash lights.
pedal2themetal
Well-Known Member
HI
I believe on some the dash light dimmer is on the dash somewhere. the Dimmer also if turned all the way down it automatically turns on the dome light and well stay on until the dimmer is moved off that setting ...
you need to find the dash light dimer switch
good luck
tim
I believe on some the dash light dimmer is on the dash somewhere. the Dimmer also if turned all the way down it automatically turns on the dome light and well stay on until the dimmer is moved off that setting ...
you need to find the dash light dimer switch
good luck
tim
You need to look at all the connectors making sure they are correct on both sides of the plugs. The yellow must be grounded somewhere in that console harness. You said the back up lights work correctly? Is there a factory tachometer?
Wietse
Well-Known Member
I had a good fight with this dome light before... .turned out I used the wrong light bulb.
Can't remember the fitting number, but there are 2 types that will fit but one type is grounded through an external device (like a door switch) while the other one is grounded by the bulb fitting, when grounded through the fitting it will remain on all the time.
I used the latter one and ran around for quite some time before I found the bulb was wrong.
Can't remember the fitting number, but there are 2 types that will fit but one type is grounded through an external device (like a door switch) while the other one is grounded by the bulb fitting, when grounded through the fitting it will remain on all the time.
I used the latter one and ran around for quite some time before I found the bulb was wrong.
This is a way out there thought but my 66 dome lights would not go out - they are in the rear pillar. After all new dash wiring and tracing everything out I noticed the wiring going up the right pillar in the trunk seemed bound up and restrained when tugging on it from either end. I also found it strange that with the bulb removed and the doors shut, both terminals in the socket were hot. I finally snaked an inspection camera up into the pillar and found one of the speed nuts securing the outside chrome trim was clamped down on the wire and shorting the hot side to the ground side tying back to the switch keeping the circuit hot all the time.
Unlikely you will find the same screw up but check the terminals in the bulb holder with the bulb out and if both sides are hot and your door switchs are closed, I would be looking for the harness to be pinched somewhere and shorting across.
Unlikely you will find the same screw up but check the terminals in the bulb holder with the bulb out and if both sides are hot and your door switchs are closed, I would be looking for the harness to be pinched somewhere and shorting across.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
No factory tach. I talked to Tommy White (partshound.net) he said to remove the bulbs from the console, and one at a time reinstall them. It was explained a bulb can cause a grounding problem.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
I checked the harness, and found no problems as far as pinching goes. I removed the a pillar trim, and the dome light wiring was intact with no pinching, or cuts.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
Did that already. The problem may be in the console harness. I removed the two courtesy lights, and gear selector light, and the dome light turned off. I installed the gear selector bulb, dome light shuts off. Installed courtesy lamp bulbs one at a time the dome light did not turn off. Must be a harness, or socket problem
If the wires are somehow reversed at one of the curtesy lights, or at a connection plug, (or maybe an incorrect light bulb) it might energize both legs to the dome light. Seems my pillar lights were downstream so-to-speak, from the console lights. Don’t know if the same is true of a 67 with a dome light. The curious thing on mine was although the rear pillar lights were shorted across on mine and stayed on, the console lights worked perfectly normal. Sounds like yours are doing the same. Of course I find everything electrical curious and confounding.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
When i pulled the console courtesy light bulbs the problem disappeared, the gear selector light did not cause any problem, but I am sending the harness back to where I bought, and said he will look at it. Maybe something in the console harness.
A couple minutes with a meter would sort it out.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
I sent the console harness to Tommy White ( partshound.net) I mistakenly thought I bought it from him. It is one i bought from M&H electric. In a nice way he said it was garbage. He repaired the harness free of charge. From now on I'll buy stuff from Tommy. He's a standup guy.
A new M&H harness certainly would not be junk. It was a simple fix I am sure most likely a couple wires switched some place. There is only like 6 or 8 wires in a console harness. I could of fixed it quicker than you could of packaged it.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
Fine, if i have a problem I will ship it to you. I am not the most expierenced guy in this forum, especially electrical. BTW I have a black belt in packaging. If M&H is so great, then why would it need to be fixed?
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Wietse
Well-Known Member
That depends on if you and/or your business can benefit on statements like that. This Tommy can "fix" new M&H wiring all day for an hour rate... anyone can do that.
I am a hobbyist and not professional Electrician by far, I changed all my harness section with M&H and guess what, everything works and is still working 3 years later.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
Tommy did not charge me. No need to get defensive. I am also a hobbyist, and I can admit I am not all knowing.
Wietse
Well-Known Member
Not being defensive, and I am not all knowing either, but I refuse to believe an M&H harness is not assembled correct.
How many times there are people that start cutting and modifying a brand new harness as it is deemed "wrong" where the end user is to blame for trying to copy the chopped up old harness.
Not saying you messed it up, just trying to help you to stick with the harness as received and look for other sources causing the issue.
As I had mentioned before in regards to the light bulb itself, did you confirm you have the right bulb?
I believe that should be #1004, which has a double contact bayonet fitting.
I installed a wrong one and searched for a long time why my dome light stayed on all the time, turned out I had the wrong type installed.
How many times there are people that start cutting and modifying a brand new harness as it is deemed "wrong" where the end user is to blame for trying to copy the chopped up old harness.
Not saying you messed it up, just trying to help you to stick with the harness as received and look for other sources causing the issue.
As I had mentioned before in regards to the light bulb itself, did you confirm you have the right bulb?
I believe that should be #1004, which has a double contact bayonet fitting.
I installed a wrong one and searched for a long time why my dome light stayed on all the time, turned out I had the wrong type installed.
If you install a wrong single contact bulb and both contacts can touch both contacts in the socket ,
poof goes the fuse. This was an easily fixed problem.
Wietse
Well-Known Member
In my case the light stayed on as it was always connected to ground due to the wrong bulb, the grounding is normally provided through the door switches.
I believe this bulb is getting +12V through the socket and grounding is provided through 1 of those double contacts
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