• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Driveshaft OD/what you using

Another very important thing....as I don't see any mention of it yet....You gotta have a SONNAX Forged Slip Yoke. You can get it from Summit.
I also use a Strange forged pinion yoke and strap.
I didn't ask the brand, but the slip yoke for a 1350 U-Joint is included at $700. The 1350 pinion yoke was $165 but I didn't ask the brand of that either. Thanks Mike!
I’m curious about the block that you’ve got a deposit on. What is it?
Bill Mitchell Engineering, 4.49 bore aluminum RB block, circa 2019 redesign.
Going to do a 4.25 stroke, for 541 cu in, although the block will take a 4.5 stroke with no clearancing required. "Only" looking for 650-700HP and 700 ft lbs torque. Should be easier with that displacement, and the 4.25 vs 4.5 stroke will help keep piston speed reasonable.
 
I didn't ask the brand, but the slip yoke for a 1350 U-Joint is included at $700. The 1350 pinion yoke was $165 but I didn't ask the brand of that either. Thanks Mike!

Bill Mitchell Engineering, 4.49 bore aluminum RB block, circa 2019 redesign.
Going to do a 4.25 stroke, for 541 cu in, although the block will take a 4.5 stroke with no clearancing required. "Only" looking for 650-700HP and 700 ft lbs torque. Should be easier with that displacement, and the 4.25 vs 4.5 stroke will help keep piston speed reasonable.
—-
You’ll easily surpass that HP. A friend just built a 541 pump gas motor. 11.25 Cr with Victor MW heads. Made lots more than that.
 
—-
You’ll easily surpass that HP. A friend just built a 541 pump gas motor. 11.25 Cr with Victor MW heads. Made lots more than that.
Because of the way I use my car, I really don't want to go over 700HP or much over 700 Ft Lbs torque, except that I have inquired on the forum about a 100-150 "oh **** shot" of nitrous, for 3rd/4th gear use if I need a car length or 2 to turn a L into a W.
Being mostly a street cruiser, I want as much reliability and minimal maintenance as is reasonable. I figure the displacement alone is going to provide good power and torque, and I need enough RPM capability to cross the line in 4th gear as I'd rather not change out the 4.10 gears. Then again, I may find going back to the 3.54s may be better for the new motor, so there's that. I also figure the displacement will allow for a less radical cam and reasonable spring pressure, so I don't have to constantly check valve lash. I'm thinking solid flat tappet lifters would be my best bet so I don't have to worry in stop and go traffic.
I trust my builder, but I also appreciate the forum.
Thanks Malex
 
Because of the way I use my car, I really don't want to go over 700HP or much over 700 Ft Lbs torque, except that I have inquired on the forum about a 100-150 "oh **** shot" of nitrous, for 3rd/4th gear use if I need a car length or 2 to turn a L into a W.
Being mostly a street cruiser, I want as much reliability and minimal maintenance as is reasonable. I figure the displacement alone is going to provide good power and torque, and I need enough RPM capability to cross the line in 4th gear as I'd rather not change out the 4.10 gears. Then again, I may find going back to the 3.54s may be better for the new motor, so there's that. I also figure the displacement will allow for a less radical cam and reasonable spring pressure, so I don't have to constantly check valve lash. I'm thinking solid flat tappet lifters would be my best bet so I don't have to worry in stop and go traffic.
I trust my builder, but I also appreciate the forum.
Thanks Malex
——
More hp and a throttle stop might work for you too.
 
View attachment 965092 Another very important thing....as I don't see any mention of it yet....
You gotta have a SONNAX Forged Slip Yoke. You can get it from Summit.
I also use a Strange forged pinion yoke and strap. You cant be too strong. I also use 1350 u joints...as we all know when the driveline fails it usually takes out the transmission also.
My 64 572 Hemi makes 1011HP and 805TQ so I can't afford to have any weak links in the driveline... What ever your HP and TQ if you upgrade and spend the extra money to start with for these parts you will never have to worry about them again.
:thumbsup: :lowdown: Mike Gaines :thankyou:
Done on the back end. Damn caps are $102:eek:
Screenshot_20200619-171645_Outlook.jpg


I'll have to ask whomever I get with for the driveshaft about the transmission slip yoke..
30 spline slip yoke for the "Hemi" 18 spline a833, right?
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top