jogirob
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Thanks Jeff! I already have the tool on it's way. It's a cheap $29.99 version but it's the same one I've seen used in the YouTube vid I'm referencing. And I'm way up north in Sacramento but appreciate the offer.
Dropping 904 transmission while on jacks. Clearance questions.
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jogirob
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I see you were able to take it out on standard jackstands!
MrJLR
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A word of caution without that plywood they can crush easily with the holes horizontal. I'd get a 2X12 and do the same as you do under tires and cap it with 2X12. I'm sure there are other designs.
MrJLR
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When I was 20 use real cinder blocks, holes up under tires on bare ground to hold up my 62 Dodge. I shudder at the thought.
MrJLR
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jogirob
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I did it! Whats funny is that I didnt get injured till after I was done with the drop. I was examining the torque converter and it slipped my grasp. I tried catching it and ended up pinching some fingers between the sharp starter teeth and the oil pan.
Yes I was a little concerned of the cinderblocks crumbling under the metal jack wheels. I had a very thin piece of plywood to help dissipitate the stress areas. Ill be sure to cut something thicker. The 2x4 pillars themselves are solid. They can probably hold up a bus.
Yes I was a little concerned of the cinderblocks crumbling under the metal jack wheels. I had a very thin piece of plywood to help dissipitate the stress areas. Ill be sure to cut something thicker. The 2x4 pillars themselves are solid. They can probably hold up a bus.
MrJLR
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I would'nt have cinder blocks any closer than 10' from my car. You're really asking for trouble. Solid wood or nothing!
I built my blocks like MrJLR's but capped them with a 2X10 and an angle cut 2X4. Put a extra block just below top cap, think mine are 22" long.
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jogirob
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Ah I see. I kind of liked the way the tire securely nested in there but could see how the top blocks would try to push out. Always open to improvements.
jogirob
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But how else are we supposed to jack them chrome dubz out in da hood?
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YY1
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I put a single 2x4 on edge across the fenders but only on top of the area where the fender bolts to the inner fender.Wrapped a chain around it and bolted to the backs of the heads.
No marks. Put a rag under each end if you want.
No marks. Put a rag under each end if you want.
jogirob
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I knew I saw that idea on here somewhere. I think you commented on one of my first posts on FBBO. Let me tell you, that jack holding the engine up was such a pain to maneuver around. Makes safe sense since the motor mounts are still bolted in then the 2x4 would only be helping keep the motor tipped.
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I was "lucky....my headers are so damn close to my steering, the engine rested on the headers right away and hardly tipped back at all.
Jeff
If there is a ledge on inner fender panels cut 2X4 so it only lays on the IFP. Another option is to run a cable threw fender access holes for front end alignment or between torsion bars.
YY1
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Well, dang. So much for a mind like a steel trap.
I actually used a length of C channel steel resting on PT 2x6 which sat on top of the fender to inner fender bolts.
To make things a bit more complex, I employed a modern scissors jack to raise and lower the engine, since I was removing one motor mount.
Still no marks on the inner fenders or bolt heads.
I actually used a length of C channel steel resting on PT 2x6 which sat on top of the fender to inner fender bolts.
To make things a bit more complex, I employed a modern scissors jack to raise and lower the engine, since I was removing one motor mount.
Still no marks on the inner fenders or bolt heads.
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