EFI Conversion Kit

[That_1_71_Dodge]

Hello, I'm looking to ditch the carb and run an efi. I would like to keep that carbureted look but that's not necessary. Now I have no clue what I should be looking for exactly but it is a 383 Big block in a 71' dodge charger 500. It has dual exhaust, 4 barrel carb, I bet there is more I need to list so let me know the information you need and I will get it to you or edit this post to include such, let me know what you guys think may be the best bet, thank you.

 

[pnora]

Look to get an EFI fuel tank and a Holley sniper.

 

[Dennis H]

22 pages of bliss here. Enjoy.

Pro Flo 4. Edelbrock

Check for exhaust leak at the flange gasket and at the header gasket. Could be letting fresh air in.

www.forbbodiesonly.com

 

[pnora]

Allow about 3 grand to do the job.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

I used the MSD Atomic EFI kit on my corvette and have been pretty happy with it. It was gutless with a carb and is still gutless, but other than that everything improved with that kit. The kit I have is older and out of date but I’d imagine the next gen would be even better.
I kept my oem tank and fuel sender assembly and used an external pump, whole setup when I bought it around 4 years ago was $1100 or so.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Hello, I'm looking to ditch the carb and run an efi. I would like to keep that carbureted look but that's not necessary. Now I have no clue what I should be looking for exactly but it is a 383 Big block in a 71' dodge charger 500. It has dual exhaust, 4 barrel carb, I bet there is more I need to list so let me know the information you need and I will get it to you or edit this post to include such, let me know what you guys think may be the best bet, thank you.

I installed my first Holley EFI TBI Pro-Injection in early 90's, over a carb I was very impressed, the drivability/roadability was a huge improvement, unfortunately it died a month later. I was rather disappointed, 12 Months later decided to buy another figuring I just had bad luck. A month later on i-75 at 1AM I am in the breakdown lane reinstalling my original carb.
I am sure all the bugs are worked out now, and you will be happy.

 

[451Mopar]

mine was an original 383 4-bbl '71 Charger 500 too, but has a '72 bulge hood.
Start with EFI Fuel tank, Tanks Inc TCR10-T $295
1971-73 Dodge Charger, Plymouth Road Runner Fuel Injection Gas Tank
Need the fuel pump Module that fits that tank, with the correct pump for your setup. The GPA-4 uses the 255 LPH walbro pump that is pretty common up to about 550-600 HP NA on gasoline. If you plan to run E-85 fuel, there are some pumps designed for E-85/flex fuel and in higher outputs.
The GPA-4 module is $220
In-Tank Fuel Pump Module - GPA-Series
Fuel level sending unit is $40. I don't know what the correct ohm range is correct, best to call and ask?
5 Bolt Fuel Sending Unit

I prefer running the fuel system with the return line, but that is an extra line from tank to EFI regulator.
I use the stainless reproduction fuel lines, 3/8" supply and 5/16" return to run the length of the car. The line ends are adapted to -6 AN fittings for the flexible lines to the tank, filter, and regulator. Plus the -6AN line from filter to fuel rail.
Most aftermarket setups will just have you run the braided hose the entire car, which works fine but dosen't tuck under the car as well.
The Copper-Nickel lines are also good and easy to shape, and less expensive than the pre-bent stainless lines.

EFI kit may or may not come with a filter. Most use a generic GM filter with AN-6 to metric O-ring fitting (I think 14mm, but not sure?)

Kit will come with an strap-on the exhaust O2 bung, but I prefer to have the O2 exhaust bung welded on.

For the actual Throttle Body EFI, use one that can control ignition timing to get the full benefit of the EFI tuning.
I think the Holley Sniper Version 2 is supposed to be a much improved version of the original sniper, which seemed to work fine on the one I setup, but it used the sniper distributor and ignition HEI box.
My Charger had the old Fi-Tech 1200 PA unit, which is working good too, but tuning seems more cumbersome. On the positive side, it works with a factory lean burn distributor, so no need for a pricy distributor.
I have an original Sniper for my 360 engine and I plan to try running it with the stock electronic distributor after locking it out, and re-phasing the distributor reluctor wheel which will re-phase the rotor to pickup. I hope it works like it did on the Fi-Tech because they charge alot for the Holley and MSD Distributors.

 

[threewood]

Here is a link to my conversion.
I Finally Did It.....EFI

 

[71RRHI]

I have been running a Fitech TBI on my 67 coronet since 2017. Follow the instructions when doing the install. Run an in tank fuel pump, with a return line. Provide a good clean 12+ volts to the ecu. There is a learning curve on setting up and adjusting the efi, just like learning to adjust a carb for the first time.

 

[vance.dykes]

you need to READ HOW FUEL INJECTION WORKS AND HOW TO TUNE IT so many people say i want f-i then when the plug and play dont play they get pissed and bad mouth it. i have the pro- flo 4 system and love it but im a 40 master A.S.E teck so i know ltft / stft if you dont know what that means please read on what is fuel injection and how it works look for A/C Delco port fuel book SD-FC-3

 

[vance.dykes]

was testing

 

[Dennis H]

The Pro Flo 4 was plug and play AHEAD of the firewall. Other efi’s are just electronic carburetors.
Has not had a hiccup for over 5 years. Oil consumption stopped and rear of car stays clean. Zero downside except the beauty of Muuuu Ahhhh sound of the 850 Demon.

 

[dfrazz]

I would research before jumping in, and once you buy follow the instructions exactly how it is layed out and step by step (do not rush). Once you get it installed, expect it to run like crap then it will get a little better. I would HIGHLY recommend taking it to an experienced tune shop so they can dial it in. It is best to tune it on a dyno AND during a ride a long to simulate different driving conditions.

 

[Nxcoupe]

I am a holley efi dealer. I out one of the new sniper 2 units on my 66 coronet. I made my own in tank fuel pump module, and mounted a regulator on the inside of the front frame rail for easy access. It cost me about 1500 all said and done because I already had converted to electronic ignition and didn't want the efi to control timing yet. It drives perfectly and starts right up and idles smooth as silk. Running on 7 cylinders it got 16 mpg driving back and forth to carlisle last year. I have since fixed it and got it hitting on all 8 and it works even better now. Haven't checked mileage again but I'm sure it's slightly better. 361 bb btw.

 

[rmchrgr]

I wouldn't bother with anything other than Holley EFI - most options, most support, period. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise, I'm on my 3rd system. Or just go to the drags and observe that pretty much ALL the fastest cars there are Holley EFI-equipped.

Sniper is the easiest system to install. The throttle body does not necessarily look like a carb but you won't see it under an air cleaner when it's finished. If you gotta have the carb look, they offer a 4150-style throttle body but it's more expensive.

The Sniper 2 system offers a "PDM" (power distribution module) which will make wiring 10x easier and cleaner. If I was in the market for a Sniper it would definitely have a PDM included. Keep in mind you can't use the PDM on other systems like the Terminator or Dominator though, it's a Sniper-only deal.

Couple tips from someone that has done two complete conversions thus far;

1) Re-wire the car

2) Re-wire the car

3) Re-wire the car

4) See above. Good wiring is the #1 most important component to a successful install, trust me on this. Sounds extreme but re-wire the car. You will have problems if you don't, guaranteed.

5) Buy the whole shebang - ECU, ignition box, distributor, in-tank fuel system. These systems are designed to work as a whole, especially the ignition parts. Say goodbye to your orange box, tan-cap distributor, ballast resistor and chrome canister coil. You're defeating half the benefit of EFI without letting the ECU control the ignition.

6) Unless you enjoy spending hours upon hours on the phone with tech support, don't cheap out by "using what you already have because it's perfectly good" (see above).

7) Don't be afraid/stubborn/intimidated - learn how to use the software so you can eventually build your own ignition and fuel tables. The tuning ideas are the same as a carburetor, they're just presented in a different format. Plus, the software is actually pretty easy to use.

8) Don't bother converting to EFI if you don't drive the car regularly in all sorts of situations. It's absolutely not worth the investment in time and money if you only putt around every once in a while. (also see above)

 

[vance.dykes]

I wouldn't bother with anything other than Holley EFI - most options, most support, period. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise, I'm on my 3rd system. Or just go to the drags and observe that pretty much ALL the fastest cars there are Holley EFI-equipped.

Sniper is the easiest system to install. The throttle body does not necessarily look like a carb but you won't see it under an air cleaner when it's finished. If you gotta have the carb look, they offer a 4150-style throttle body but it's more expensive.

The Sniper 2 system offers a "PDM" (power distribution module) which will make wiring 10x easier and cleaner. If I was in the market for a Sniper it would definitely have a PDM included. Keep in mind you can't use the PDM on other systems like the Terminator or Dominator though, it's a Sniper-only deal.

Couple tips from someone that has done two complete conversions thus far;

1) Re-wire the car

2) Re-wire the car

3) Re-wire the car

4) See above. Good wiring is the #1 most important component to a successful install, trust me on this. Sounds extreme but re-wire the car. You will have problems if you don't, guaranteed.

5) Buy the whole shebang - ECU, ignition box, distributor, in-tank fuel system. These systems are designed to work as a whole, especially the ignition parts. Say goodbye to your orange box, tan-cap distributor, ballast resistor and chrome canister coil. You're defeating half the benefit of EFI without letting the ECU control the ignition.

6) Unless you enjoy spending hours upon hours on the phone with tech support, don't cheap out by "using what you already have because it's perfectly good" (see above).

7) Don't be afraid/stubborn/intimidated - learn how to use the software so you can eventually build your own ignition and fuel tables. The tuning ideas are the same as a carburetor, they're just presented in a different format. Plus, the software is actually pretty easy to use.

8) Don't bother converting to EFI if you don't drive the car regularly in all sorts of situations. It's absolutely not worth the investment in time and money if you only putt around every once in a while. (also see above)

I AGGREE WITH YOU NEW WIRING IS A MUST no hack in to the power wire with a blue /red/yellow scooch locks should shot if you use them learn to solider wire. and make connectors to unplug to work on the system and other systems think it out draw a diagram for what and how you will wire it where will the relays go what and how many amps fuse to use .

 

[Dennis H]

Figure out a way to access the in-tank pump without dropping the tank. Get an oversized tank if you road trip the car really pays off. Got mine from Ricks Tanks, El Paso. Fits like a glove with an extra 2 gallons or so. Cost just short of $$$1 million.

 

[vance.dykes]

Figure out a way to access the in-tank pump without dropping the tank. Get an oversized tank if you road trip the car really pays off. Got mine from Ricks Tanks, El Paso. Fits like a glove with an extra 2 gallons or so. Cost just short of $$$1 million.

he is right it ain,t cheep nor do you want cheep with 40 to 60 p.s.i. of fuel . can you say fire.....