EFI Conversion Kit

[yagermonster]

I Have a used working Sniper 1 system with the full hyper spark for small block mopar i am about to list on hear. all you would need to make work is a fuel pump i keep my in tank pump Its on Facebook market place now. if anyone is interested asking $900 OBO as i am picking up a A833 today for the same price. was on my 82 D250 with a 72 360 got it tuned the best i could yes the self leaning is BS you have to use a PC to dial it in correctly. but after went i back to carbs found a intake leak and i have a miss match of cam timing and or torque converter stall to low i tried 3 different cfm carbs and only runs good with the 650 avs two. but half tempted to put the sniper back on if i cant sell after i go threw my motor and trans. i recommended you get your car runing well on carb first then do a efi swap

 

[Jeff Peterson]

I have a Sniper on my 84' W150, 318 without timing control, I do have a ecu controlled distrubutor out of a '92 tbi 360, is there a way to make this work with the Sniper?

 

[dodge73dart]

Hello, I'm looking to ditch the carb and run an efi. I would like to keep that carbureted look but that's not necessary. Now I have no clue what I should be looking for exactly but it is a 383 Big block in a 71' dodge charger 500. It has dual exhaust, 4 barrel carb, I bet there is more I need to list so let me know the information you need and I will get it to you or edit this post to include such, let me know what you guys think may be the best bet, thank you.

It all depends on what your looking for as far as performance?
I will tell you that you will most definitely need to upgrade your intake to a EFI friendly one. Yes a EFI will git most stock intakes but unless it’s built for the correct flow you’ll most likely get a rich condition. This is because the spray will bounce off the inside of the intake in a way that will turn the vapor into a liquid. Please don’t just take my word for it do the research.
If your looking for power and performance also look at headers and a 3” exhaust with a crossover X pipe.
Flow is the key here. Plenty of fuel in and plenty of exhaust out.
If your just looking at getting away from the carb and having an easy to start and tune engine Holly EFI has a great system. It’s all a money pit.
Your looking at modifying your fuel and exhaust and ignition system to get the most out of your engine.
Let us b know how you make out.

 

[ScottyG]

For me personally I wouldn’t get any TBI injections system don’t matter who makes it . Think about it like this
Carburetors were around beginning to the mid 80s .
TBI injection mid. 80s to end of 80s
MPI injections mid 80s to current

I would go right to the big gun and get. Holley terminator x and make the car MPI injection. Plenty of ppl can modify an Intake for injectors & rails or some company’s even make a efi version intakes now .
My car is on MPI and it’s light years ahead of any TBI units . Yea either conversion will cost you money but spend the money right the first time not the second time

 

[70chall440]

Carbs have been around since cars were invented (Karl Benz invented them I believe).

Some good advice here overall. Having done 5 or 6 of these, here are my points;

1. Don't be afraid of doing it, not rocket science. Any EFI system will probably be beneficial over a carb unless you are really good at tuning the carb OR are running a full out race car (carb can be better at that to a degree)

2. Biggest mistakes made with EFI are typically bad wiring and not following the instructions. When it says the positive wires MUST go to the battery that is what they mean.

3. You need a good clean electrical system meaning you need to be running a decent size alternator and have good wiring. This doesn't mean you have to rewire the car but it does mean clean connections, good wires (not old and brittle), etc. The EFI system has to have clean consistent power, the ECUs do not like power spikes and drops.

4. You can make your own fuel system but you need to understand the EFI system requirements. You must have filters and a good pump AND a return line. There are many ways to accomplish all of this but if possible most just replace the tank with a setup from TANKS Inc.

Once you go EFI (assuming it done right) you will wonder how you ever used anything else. Good luck and have fun.

 

[swissarmy]

you need to READ HOW FUEL INJECTION WORKS AND HOW TO TUNE IT so many people say i want f-i then when the plug and play dont play they get pissed and bad mouth it. i have the pro- flo 4 system and love it but im a 40 master A.S.E teck so i know ltft / stft if you dont know what that means please read on what is fuel injection and how it works look for A/C Delco port fuel book SD-FC-3

Read this a few times before you make the leap.

My first question is "why do you want to ditch EFI"?
I've found that the reason folks want to ditch the carb is that they can't figure out how to get them to run right (this includes ME, btw).
Well, you'll probably have the same problem with EFI.
I'd watch a bunch of "Dead Dodge Garage" episodes first and get your car to run right.

 

[furious70]

I've had MPI since 2009. I personally don't believe it's superior to today's TBI offerings.

Myself and a good friend found that, surprisingly, MPI works just fine with dual plane intakes. Many people think otherwise. I've always had really even distribution with my rpm perf intake.

I don't see any reason for TBI to be more sensitive to intake choice than a carb?

 

[Dennis H]

Edelbrock was plug play. No tuning. No electrical issues. It was all about fuel. Nothing ahead of firewall was problematic. I wanted an oversized tank so not to run out of fuel in Nevada desert. Therefore couldn’t go the tanks inc route and had to be a pioneer. Few here were talking efi way back then. 2018.

 

[RemCharger]

I've had MPI since 2009. I personally don't believe it's superior to today's TBI offerings.

Myself and a good friend found that, surprisingly, MPI works just fine with dual plane intakes. Many people think otherwise. I've always had really even distribution with my rpm perf intake.

I don't see any reason for TBI to be more sensitive to intake choice than a carb?

Just the fact that a computer is making corrections based on odd runner configs. Carb is linear.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

I myself am going with factory dodge fuel injection.

Post a thread if you do that, I'm half considering having an old 360 truck standing by as a future donor.

Read this a few times before you make the leap.

My first question is "why do you want to ditch EFI"?
I've found that the reason folks want to ditch the carb is that they can't figure out how to get them to run right (this includes ME, btw).
Well, you'll probably have the same problem with EFI.
I'd watch a bunch of "Dead Dodge Garage" episodes first and get your car to run right.

I would NOT follow DDG's vids, at least any of the more recent ones, when it comes to EFI conversion. I like the guy and he has a lot of good info but his recent EFI exploits had a lot of halfassery with a pinch of ignoring directions.

 

[RJRENTON]

I wouldn't bother with anything other than Holley EFI - most options, most support, period. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise, I'm on my 3rd system. Or just go to the drags and observe that pretty much ALL the fastest cars there are Holley EFI-equipped.

Sniper is the easiest system to install. The throttle body does not necessarily look like a carb but you won't see it under an air cleaner when it's finished. If you gotta have the carb look, they offer a 4150-style throttle body but it's more expensive.

The Sniper 2 system offers a "PDM" (power distribution module) which will make wiring 10x easier and cleaner. If I was in the market for a Sniper it would definitely have a PDM included. Keep in mind you can't use the PDM on other systems like the Terminator or Dominator though, it's a Sniper-only deal.

Couple tips from someone that has done two complete conversions thus far;

1) Re-wire the car

2) Re-wire the car

3) Re-wire the car

4) See above. Good wiring is the #1 most important component to a successful install, trust me on this. Sounds extreme but re-wire the car. You will have problems if you don't, guaranteed.

5) Buy the whole shebang - ECU, ignition box, distributor, in-tank fuel system. These systems are designed to work as a whole, especially the ignition parts. Say goodbye to your orange box, tan-cap distributor, ballast resistor and chrome canister coil. You're defeating half the benefit of EFI without letting the ECU control the ignition.

6) Unless you enjoy spending hours upon hours on the phone with tech support, don't cheap out by "using what you already have because it's perfectly good" (see above).

7) Don't be afraid/stubborn/intimidated - learn how to use the software so you can eventually build your own ignition and fuel tables. The tuning ideas are the same as a carburetor, they're just presented in a different format. Plus, the software is actually pretty easy to use.

8) Don't bother converting to EFI if you don't drive the car regularly in all sorts of situations. It's absolutely not worth the investment in time and money if you only putt around every once in a while. (also see above)

Truer words were never spoken........AN OUTSTANDING SYNOPSIS AND EVALUATION.......especially those contemplating a change and take their "buddies" word as gospel.......just my opinion of course........
BOB RENTON

 

[Purepony]

Honestly, if you’re gonna spend that kind of money, just save up and get a hemi With factory EFI a lot of those kits cause more issues than they solve

 

[rmchrgr]

Just the fact that a computer is making corrections based on odd runner configs. Carb is linear.

Intake design really has nothing to do with how EFI works since fuel requirements are determined by feedback from the 02, load, rpm and temps. Single plane, dual plane, short runner, long runner, makes no difference. The companies that make these things have no clue what they will end up on so by design the programming takes any uniqueness out of the equation. It would never work otherwise.

Also, an ECU does not make self-determined corrections based on random parameters. An ECU merely compares information from inputs to a set of values and makes adjustments based on any differences between the input data and the presets. So say the input a/f ratio is not hitting it's target value for a given condition, the program will adjust whatever parameter(s) are needed to get it there regardless of what parts the engine has.

If a particular intake is not a good match for the combo then performance will be commensurate with that choice whether it's a carb. or a throttle body.

 

[RemCharger]

Intake design really has nothing to do with how EFI works since fuel requirements are determined by feedback from the 02, load, rpm and temps. Single plane, dual plane, short runner, long runner, makes no difference. The companies that make these things have no clue what they will end up on so by design the programming takes any uniqueness out of the equation. It would never work otherwise.

Also, an ECU does not make self-determined corrections based on random parameters. An ECU merely compares information from inputs to a set of values and makes adjustments based on any differences between the input data and the presets. So say the input a/f ratio is not hitting it's target value for a given condition, the program will adjust whatever parameter(s) are needed to get it there regardless of what parts the engine has.

If a particular intake is not a good match for the combo then performance will be commensurate with that choice whether it's a carb. or a throttle body.

I understand your sentiment.

 

[rmchrgr]

I understand your sentiment.

No emotion involved here.

Maybe you can further explain why you think I’m wrong? Just curious.

 

[RemCharger]

No emotion involved here.

Maybe you can further explain why you think I’m wrong? Just curious.

I did not say you're wrong. In post #89 I was referring to a TBI on a dual plane. Most of these systems are run with a single 02 sensor, and there will always be 1 cylinder leaner than the rest. So the ecu will keep trying hit it's A/F target by richening the whole mixture.
A single plane would narrow the distribution differences thus giving the fuel ratio a broader cleaner sampling.
That's my thoughts on it, they don't have to be yours. Maybe the differences are miniscule..

 

[rmchrgr]

I did not say you're wrong. In post #89 I was referring to a TBI on a dual plane. Most of these systems are run with a single 02 sensor, and there will always be 1 cylinder leaner than the rest. So the ecu will keep trying hit it's A/F target by richening the whole mixture.
A single plane would narrow the distribution differences thus giving the fuel ratio a broader cleaner sampling.
That's my thoughts on it, they don't have to be yours. Maybe the differences are miniscule..

Considering the target market for retrofit EFI, it's more important for those users to choose the right intake for the combination than it is to be concerned with how the ECU will handle any perceived distribution issues.

Sure, I agree in some situations a single plane could be a better choice. I like the low deck Holley Street Dominator which is a short single plane. It's a proven part that works on basic, warmed over combos and does not give up low end torque. OTOH, the Edelbrock low deck Performer RPM is just as good of an overall intake though even though it's a dual plane. Flip a coin, a carb or TBI will be fine with either choice. I had both intakes but left them off because the rest of the combo didn't support it. Is what it is sometimes.

If you have the hood clearance, an open spacer can resolve some dual plane distribution situations. That's an easy fix. I ran an open phenolic one on my Coronet though I had my doubts as to whether it was doing anything.

 

[furious70]

I can't leave the Holley Street dominator comment alone - published Dyno tests and my own experience shows it does drop torque to most manifolds but does make very good top end hp and fits where most manifolds with the same top hp won't

 

[RemCharger]

On a back to back 440 comparison I saw 1-2 tenth reduction going from an RPM to a SD. Long time ago , mid high 12 Charger.
That test always stuck with me. But never saw much more gain going to a victor when they came out.

 

[rmchrgr]

I can't leave the Holley Street dominator comment alone - published Dyno tests and my own experience shows it does drop torque to most manifolds but does make very good top end hp and fits where most manifolds with the same top hp won't

Fair enough. Either way, I maintain the S.D. could be a decent choice on a low deck street combo with EFI. The Performer RPM might make more torque at low RPM but it's also taller and height is a factor for some applications especially when you use a spacer.

Couple years ago I had a Performer RPM on a low (LOW!) compression 400 with a .484" purple cam in a '70s SWB, granny 1st 4-speed truck with 3.23 gears. (not my choice, got it like that) It seemed fine on that ridiculous pile of parts so it's probably pretty forgiving. I'm sure the RPM would be great with a Sniper.

Again, I'm just pointing out that whatever the combo is, it's best to have it reasonably sorted out before going to EFI. If you just stick a single plane intake on a stock bottom end with a factory hydraulic cam it's going to be an uphill battle. Mismatched parts, ancient, hacked-up wiring, exhaust leaks, this, that, whatever - figure it out because EFI won't fix it.