Electrical not my thing! Need some help.

[Dad's69RR]

Ok I will try to be as brief as possible. In the process of getting 69 RR back on the road for my dad and have several electrical questions/issues! Little background, original 383 rebuilt, new engine harness, new dash circuit board.

1. Car starts right up, but will intermittently not have any juice what's so ever when you turn the key, but when I jump a wire from the starter relay to ground it starts right up again? Here is a pic of how the starter relay connected. Feel like either ground issue or I have something hooked up incorrect. Additionally the battery cable seems to get unusually hot, like cannot hold onto it hot!


2. The second issue is when you put the car in reverse it blows fuse for backup lights. New harness installed but the tranny is not original, its the 18 spline Hemi 4-speed not sure that matters, harness plugged right in? Figuring maybe bad switch?

3. While driving to paint shop everything was working properly I.E. turn signals etc.. but while pulling in the left side turn signal stayed on front and back. I tested and as soon as battery is connected without key in ignition the left turn signal lights front and back come on along with signal light on dash. This issue just occurred when driving to paint shop but haven't been able to cure? Replaced flasher and Will replace turn signal switch. Not sure what else?

I want to track these issues down prior to painting and I am getting a little frustrated. Any help is much appreciated. Please shoot any questions and I will answer as soon as I can. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[dla4567]

It sounds like you have more problems than I can help you with. But when I replaced my flasher control I noticed the 2 wires were opposite of the original. Also on my car I found the turn signal switch in the column had melted due to being old and making a poor connection. Proper grounding is important and a common problem. Good luck

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I just looked at a picture of my starter relay and it's wired the same as yours.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Well,
Issue number one seems quite simple to me: " Car starts right up, but will intermittently not have any juice what's so ever when you turn the key, but when I jump a wire from the starter relay to ground it starts right up again."

So, If I am reading this correctly, you are saying that if you by-pass the switch, it will start up with no problem.

Sounds to me you have "removed the switch" from the equation.
Simply replace the switch

 

[Dad's69RR]

"So, If I am reading this correctly, you are saying that if you by-pass the switch, it will start up with no problem."

To clarify, I jump from the starter relay where the black wire from Backup harness connects then run it to ground. So pull out blade a little bit and jumper to ground. Then when I turn the key the car fires up.

 

[Beekeeper]

yep sounds like a faulty ingnition switch

 

[eagleone1983]

Which sucks for you Dad's69RR, they are one year only and to my knowledge they are not reproduced. Mine is starting to go out as well, I have to wiggle the key until my voltmeter reads correctly.

Here is a link to a guy that rebuilt his own and he listed steps.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=90253

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Ok I will try to be as brief as possible. In the process of getting 69 RR back on the road for my dad and have several electrical questions/issues! Little background, original 383 rebuilt, new engine harness, new dash circuit board.

1. Car starts right up, but will intermittently not have any juice what's so ever when you turn the key, but when I jump a wire from the starter relay to ground it starts right up again? Here is a pic of how the starter relay connected. Feel like either ground issue or I have something hooked up incorrect. Additionally the battery cable seems to get unusually hot, like cannot hold onto it hot!
View attachment 308235

2. The second issue is when you put the car in reverse it blows fuse for backup lights. New harness installed but the tranny is not original, its the 18 spline Hemi 4-speed not sure that matters, harness plugged right in? Figuring maybe bad switch?

3. While driving to paint shop everything was working properly I.E. turn signals etc.. but while pulling in the left side turn signal stayed on front and back. I tested and as soon as battery is connected without key in ignition the left turn signal lights front and back come on along with signal light on dash. This issue just occurred when driving to paint shop but haven't been able to cure? Replaced flasher and Will replace turn signal switch. Not sure what else?

I want to track these issues down prior to painting and I am getting a little frustrated. Any help is much appreciated. Please shoot any questions and I will answer as soon as I can. Thanks in advance for the help.

#1 sounds like the neutral safety switch issue or shifter not all the way engaged with the switch

#2 & #3 one of your backup lights wire is grounded somewhere maybe pinched behind bumper or pinched at body connector or is in common with turn signal issue, wiring diagram will explain, power. Do you have your emergency flasher hooked up? Use the diagram below to help you trace out the wires and see if it's wired right some new harnesses come wrong I think.

Point is if the NSS is messed up it will have the issue you say with the key, also if your backup lights blow a fuse when you go in reverse you have a short in the wire or the NSS is bad, when your turn signals go whacky the switch in the steering wheel is bad or the harness you have isn't matching up or wired wrong. check it out let us know.

 

[HT413]

Looks to me like you have the relay wired up wrong. You have the I terminal (ignition - yellow) and G (neutral safety switch) reversed.

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So when in reverse, you are back feeding 12v through the reverse light circuit and blowing it out. Also, this explains the hot batter cable wire, because you're shorting the battery AND of course grounding the relay starts it because that's what the NSS is trying to do... but it's doing it to the wrong terminal.

 

[super-bee_ski]

"So, If I am reading this correctly, you are saying that if you by-pass the switch, it will start up with no problem."

To clarify, I jump from the starter relay where the black wire from Backup harness connects then run it to ground. So pull out blade a little bit and jumper to ground. Then when I turn the key the car fires up.

Yes, that means you have removed the SWITCH form the circuit.

 

[Dad's69RR]

On Monday I will swap the wires on the relay, Thanks HT and double check the routings big man! Thanks a bunch will let you guys know.

 

[Shorthorse]

If you can see it, the starter relay is marked with "I" (ignition - Yellow) and a "G" (ground from neutral safety switch, usually brown).
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoadRunnerA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoadRunnerB.JPG

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Yes that's right, just remember the NSS works on a ground reference to the starter relay meaning it's a NEG- that gets to the starter relay once the NSS switch is in the closed position which is park or neutral. And the reverse lights work like everything else on a POS+ signal the housing is grounded to the frame like most all other parts the NSS is the special one So make sure there is not a POS+ going to the NSS! good luck.

 

[Beekeeper]

Which sucks for you Dad's69RR, they are one year only and to my knowledge they are not reproduced. Mine is starting to go out as well, I have to wiggle the key until my voltmeter reads correctly.

Here is a link to a guy that rebuilt his own and he listed steps.



http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=90253

The 69' only switch is reproduced

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-69-Coronet-Superbee-Ignition-Switch-1969-NEW-/400984197704?hash=item5d5c854a48:m:mpuOTttESCY-nNJRvX7Jmbg&vxp=mtr

 

[Dad's69RR]

OK so I swapped the Ignition and the NSS and nothing changed, no start and left turn signal stays on as soon as positive post touches battery(only with battery to relay wire! Not Battery to starter wire). Decided to replace the starter relay and the back up switch and see if that helps this evening. Traced all wires and could not come up with any damaged or broken wires. Will update tonight, if this doesn't work will need more help.

Looks to me like you have the relay wired up wrong. You have the I terminal (ignition - yellow) and G (neutral safety switch) reversed.

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So when in reverse, you are back feeding 12v through the reverse light circuit and blowing it out. Also, this explains the hot batter cable wire, because you're shorting the battery AND of course grounding the relay starts it because that's what the NSS is trying to do... but it's doing it to the wrong terminal.

 

[Glenwood]

sounds like the S&T wires on the bulkhead are swapped. Did you check or test all of the bulkhead wiring through to their devices on the new harness?

 

[Dad's69RR]

I didn't but I will this evening. You think the wires in the harness harness would be swapped? It is a new M&H harness.

 

[Glenwood]

mistakes happen. These two side by side bulkhead positions could easily get mixed up during assembly. Try checking the colour at each first, then double check at each device. You could have multiple issues which can confuse one issue with another.

 

[Dad's69RR]

I replaced the starter relay and verified the yellow ignition wire in the correct place, but backup/NSS will not be in until tomorrow. I grounded the NSS on the starter relay and it started right up so I think once new switch is installed it will solve that problem.

I cannot figure out why the left side turn signal light comes on constant and both front and rear lights stay on as soon as I connect the battery. I have verified the bulkheads and all the grounds.
Also let me mention that everything worked as it was suppose to, except the backup lights, when I left my house to drive to the paint shop. I made the last left hand turn into the shop and the left turn signal stayed on interior and exterior. I am at my wits end with this one, and did I mention I hate electrical stuff. If I had the $$ to pay someone to track issue down I would but budget is tight and want to be sound for my dad when finished. All your help is deeply appreciated.

 

[Glenwood]

I wish there were easy answers to these problems. Best advice I can offer is to get a meter or test light and trace the circuits one by one as per schematic.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I know you said the flasher relays were new but are they the correct ones? I had an issue similar and it was due to a bad/wrong flasher relay going south. Also power to the turn lamps dash and outside route through the turn switch in the steering wheel it has to be something making constant contact or broken. Use the wiring diagrams and trace each wire I know it seems hard but take your time to understand how + power gets to the individual lamps especially after a switch has been turned on or off.

I replaced the starter relay and verified the yellow ignition wire in the correct place, but backup/NSS will not be in until tomorrow. I grounded the NSS on the starter relay and it started right up so I think once new switch is installed it will solve that problem.

I cannot figure out why the left side turn signal light comes on constant and both front and rear lights stay on as soon as I connect the battery. I have verified the bulkheads and all the grounds.
Also let me mention that everything worked as it was suppose to, except the backup lights, when I left my house to drive to the paint shop. I made the last left hand turn into the shop and the left turn signal stayed on interior and exterior. I am at my wits end with this one, and did I mention I hate electrical stuff. If I had the $$ to pay someone to track issue down I would but budget is tight and want to be sound for my dad when finished. All your help is deeply appreciated.