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Electrical not my thing! Need some help.

Ok installed new backup/NSS switch and no change. Traced and checked all wires and found that I had power to the left turn signal at the front and at the switch. As I stated it would come on as soon as I connected the battery so started tracing the circuit and verifying interior bulk head to exterior. I removed the fusible link from the starter relay and the light went out! This directed me to the amp meter on the dash and found the stud the red wire is connected to was loose, I tried to tighten and noticed the gauge is broken and not making a good connection. (Stud twists with the nut)
My question is if I take the same red and black wire and extend it to a Summit Amp meter will this correct the issues I am having? Would this be causing both the no start and power to the left turn signal? Just wondering since the amp meter was broken on the inside if it would make things wacky?
One last question, when hooking up the Summit amp meter will I have to add any wires? Sorry for so many questions.
 
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I think the disconnecting fusible link kills all of your power except to the starter relay. Could the turn selector switch be messed up?
I can't tell from your schematic how the ammeter is connected. In an older system like my 64, all power runs through the ammeter, so loose connections would affect most everything.

In your system, it looks like the ammeter just measures current from the alternator and charges the battery through the red wire (fusible link). I don't think these loose connections will affect much more than recharging your battery.

I would focus on the turn switch, flasher connections if proper flasher and the steering column connector.

- - - Updated - - -

actually, since the signal light is also the park light and emerg flasher, these areas need to be checked too come to think of it.

with the left light on, try removing one connector or flasher at a time until the light goes out. might help narrow it down...
 
Definitely will double check the flasher and circuit. Can I just run my wires that go to ammeter to a different ammeter and it do the same thing?
 
should be able to as long as they are rated for the same or similar maximum current in amps. If the new one was rated lower than the old one or if it was lower than the alternator's rating, you risk it overheating and catching fire.
I can't imagine a new gauge would be rated lower than the originals though.
I never really liked these ammeters personally. I think I may look at converting to a voltmeter on mine at some point.
 
Yeah you can but the smarter thing to do is bypass it and use a voltmeter instead., I think your issues are either bad flashers, bad turn signal cam or wrong type bulbs or wiring power feeds or other wire crossed or misconnected.
 
Funny you say the turn signal cam because I just ordered a new one, and buying new emergency flasher today.
How would you suggest bypassing the ammeter?

bigmanjbmopar said:
Yeah you can but the smarter thing to do is bypass it and use a voltmeter instead., I think your issues are either bad flashers, bad turn signal cam or wrong type bulbs or wiring power feeds or other wire crossed or misconnected.
Click to expand...
 
Bypassed the Ammeter, replaced turn signal cam, both flashers, starter relay, and back up switch. I unplugged the bulkhead to the front harness, the rear harness connector, and the steering column connector and the left light would still stay on! Also before I unplugged, the right turn signal no longer works, nor does the emergency flashers. Everything else is functioning correctly and I removed the ignition switch and cleaned terminals. Fuses are good, removed the light from the circuit board and re-installed. The light did not come back on but the turn signals or flashers still do not work. Electrical sucks, anymore suggestions?? Do I need special emergency flasher? I have typical round flasher not specifically for emergency flashers?
 
Years ago I had similar issues, with a '69 Plymouth...when I cut the wire to the license plate light my problems went away...
Seems that I had a dead short...
 
Yeah, you have so many issues right now that's it's tough to wrap my head around it all. I know you did a lot already, but the only thing to do is sit down with a wiring diagram, and highlight every wire that feeds the circuit(s) that are giving you issues. Start at the fuse box and disconnect the circuits, then one by one trace each wire looking for proper connection and any possible nicks / dead shorts. Probably want to start with the grounds first, as poor grounds can cause so many crazy issues that it's tough to fathom.
 
and the left light would still stay on!
Click to expand...

Are we still talking about the left turn indicator in the instrument cluster stays on?
 
Dad's69RR said:
Ok installed new backup/NSS switch and no change. Traced and checked all wires and found that I had power to the left turn signal at the front and at the switch. Can you confirm the wiring is correct from the NSS? These have a signal from the transmission body (-neg) for the starter relay and a +pos (white?) and a signal (violet?) that goes to the back up lights. A mix up here would also explain why the fuse blew in reverse.

As I stated it would come on as soon as I connected the battery so started tracing the circuit and verifying interior bulk head to exterior. I removed the fusible link from the starter relay and the light went out! This directed me to the amp meter on the dash and found the stud the red wire is connected to was loose, I tried to tighten and noticed the gauge is broken and not making a good connection. (Stud twists with the nut) This and a NSS wiring mix up may be your no start issue.


My question is if I take the same red and black wire and extend it to a Summit Amp meter will this correct the issues I am having? Would this be causing both the no start and power to the left turn signal? Just wondering since the amp meter was broken on the inside if it would make things wacky?
One last question, when hooking up the Summit amp meter will I have to add any wires? Sorry for so many questions.
Click to expand...


The left signal circuits needs more tracing to see where the 12V is coming from. Could be a wrong flasher, wiring mix up on the 4way flasher switch and any connector, although this would have bee a problem from the beginning.
 
I'd even check the bulbs to make sure they are correct.
The best way to troubleshoot this stuff is to isolate section of the circuit. I'd start with disconnecting the front lighting bulkhead connector to see if the rear & cluster left lights stay on. This eliminates the source from the front wiring.
reconnect, then disconnect the rear. Front still on? Then the problem is under the dash most likely.
 
"Can you confirm the wiring is correct from the NSS? These have a signal from the transmission body (-neg) for the starter relay and a +pos (white?) and a signal (violet?) that goes to the back up lights. A mix up here would also explain why the fuse blew in reverse." I think this issue is resolved, I did have the ignition and the wire from the transmission swapped. One question, where does the wire from the tranny suppose to ground? I grounded it to the starter relay case since the relay I purchased has the two prongs not the rivet welded to the case. Is this correct?
 
the ground comes from the transmission body/switch threads then through the wire when in neutral/park. There should not be a need to add a ground wire to anything. Does your NSS have three prongs?
 
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So let me review, you replaced just about everything, unplugged everything and the left turn lamp in the cluster stays lit? Well dude it's in the harness or the connector or the circuit board for the cluster.

Let's start with the harness - Is it original or new like year one or something? If its original then we will move on.

Connector for the circuit board can get loose connections or have been messed with

Circuit board is it new? If not check it for blown traces and broken solder joints on everything.

I'm thinking like one of the other members you have a positive 12vdc coming from somewhere to the lamps for the cluster which should not be there. You are going to have to use the wiring diagrams to trace it all out and make sure what you have is correct. Take some pics maybe one of us will recognize a flaw right off who knows?
 
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