Engine Assembly lube

[mopar367]

So my 440 is almost done at the machine shop and I went to the parts store for some bearing lubricant/grease and a cam break in grease. Nobody knew anything about it. The guy says" Whats it for a chevy or something" O boy.

They said use lucas oil stabilizer on everything. Finally a guy went to the back and got me a half full bottle of clevite bearing guard.
It looks to be pretty old, its a red grease. I plan on using this on my bearing surfaces. what should I use on my cam lobes?

 

[Cranky]

Mopar Performance used to sell cam/breakin lube. That's all I've ever used. As for the bearings, I just do a 50/50 mix of STP and 30wt. Done it that way for 30 years....

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

So my 440 is almost done at the machine shop and I went to the parts store for some bearing lubricant/grease and a cam break in grease. Nobody knew anything about it. The guy says" Whats it for a chevy or something" O boy.

They said use lucas oil stabilizer on everything. Finally a guy went to the back and got me a half full bottle of clevite bearing guard.
It looks to be pretty old, its a red grease. I plan on using this on my bearing surfaces. what should I use on my cam lobes?

Did you bonk him on the head?:violent1:

Get the Comp Cams bearing lube / cam break in lube it works great.

Or

Clevite "Bearing Guard" Assembly Lube 8oz

 

[mopar367]

So would that clevite bearing guard be alright to use on cam lobes? or just bearing surfaces?

 

[mopar367]

And no I didn't bonk him on the head for the chevy remark. Just gave him a funny look and said its a dodge engine lol

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Yup

 

[67 B-body]

Same as Cranky,,,, STP on all bearings, and the cam manufacture should have sent break-in / assy lube for it.
Good oil like Brad Penn is a must for Non-Roller cams!!!!!!!!!!! I don't have enough time or space on the page to add enough explanation points to the last sentence!
Prime the oil system with a drill before you even crank it over with the starter, and you'll be fine.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Same as Cranky,,,, STP on all bearings, and the cam manufacture should have sent break-in / assy lube for it.
Good oil like Brad Penn is a must for Non-Roller cams!!!!!!!!!!! I don't have enough time or space on the page to add enough explanation points to the last sentence!
Prime the oil system with a drill before you even crank it over with the starter, and you'll be fine.

Why just NO-ROLLER CAMS!!!!!? lol I use it on my roller cam and solid lifters works fine highly recommended. See you just can't sit there and not explain yourself ;) I use the 10-40w partial syn green stuff. The 493 loves it.

 

[69Bee]

I use CRC Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube to build motors. I also highly recommend prelubing the motor also.

http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=SL3333

I also use Joe Gibbs engine break in oil BR-30

 

[mopar367]

Ya I got a Mopar Purple Cam and lifter kit, it didn't have any lube with it. I will definately use good oil, and prime before startup. I think I will use that clevite bearing guard on my bearing surfaces. Just beacause I already have it. But still not 100 percent sure on the cam lobes.

 

[67 B-body]

Why just NO-ROLLER CAMS!!!!!? lol I use it on my roller cam and solid lifters works fine highly recommended. See you just can't sit there and not explain yourself ;) I use the 10-40w partial syn green stuff. The 493 loves it.[/QUOTE
My post doesn't imply you cant use it on roller cams,,,, it says it's a MUST for non- roller cams.....

 

[Moparsmitty]

Most, but not all, cam manufacturers say to use their own cam break in lube. If they send lube with the cam, use it. If they recommend a specific lube, get it and use that. Some cam manufacturers are pretty specific about which oil to use. If you follow their instructions and there is a problem later you will be in a much better position to resolve it with them.

 

[6PakBee]

I think every flat tappet cam manufacturer uses about the same break-in lube, some kind of moly based grease. I do agree that using the cam manufacture's version is a good idea though. As for assembly lubes, I make up my own concoction of 50% ATF, 25% STP, and 25% Lubriplate. Has worked for me for decades.

 

[451Mopar]

I have been using the Royal Purple assembly lube on the bearings and valves.
The Flat tappet cams I just used what ever came with the cam.
The last few engines have used roller cams, so no real issue with break-in.
I do pre-lube the engines.

 

[mopar367]

Thanks for all the replies guys. You are much more helpful than the guys at the local parts store. I think I am going to order some moly based grease online. Because the boneheads at Bensons here don't even know what that is.

 

[oldbee]

If I remember right, keep rpm's above an idle for a while?..Cam lobes get their lube from splash.

 

[451Mopar]

If you use ARP fasteners, you may want to get a bottle of the Ultra-Torque lube too.
When I was putting head studs on my Cummins diesel, I ran out of moly lube (they only came with one of the small packets of lube), and none of the parts stores or machine shops in my area had any for sale. I had a head and main stud kit for another project, so I stole the moly lube out of those boxes, and ordered to the extra bottle. ARP now recommends using the Ultra-Torque lube over their moly lube anyhow.

 

[383man]

The red grease should be fine on the bearings but not on the cam. I use STP on my bearings as I have for 30 years. As for the cam break in lube if you dont have a speed shop in your area that has some just order some from Summit or Jegs. You can get the Comp break in cam lube and get a bottle of the zinc additive and put that in also. Use a good oil with plenty of zinc. I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil which has plenty of zinc in it. As stated prime the oil pump before starting and as soon as it starts get it up to about 2000 rpm and keep it there until it hits about 180 or al least about 10 minutes. That will help keep from wiping a cam lobe. I usually have a friend start the car and another buddy work the throttle to keep the rpm at about 2000 and I have the timing light hooked up so I can get it in the ballpark as soon as it starts. The worse thing you can do is let it idle right after you start it. Good luck , Ron