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Engine build

72charging

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Hey guys, new to the site and i'm rebuilding my fathers original owner 1972 charger. Kinda blew the budget on the body but what i have is a rebuilt 77 dodge 440 with flat top pistons, eddy heads and that is it for now. I was looking at a 500 hp build from car craft but the rocker parts are a little bit out of my price range as of now so i wanted to use the original rockers and my heads to do a high 400 hp build, any suggestions on cam, carb and things of that nature by the way it will be daily driver. Thanks
 
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Find a set of Crane, Isky, ETC factory style adjustable rockers. There cheap and strong enough. I like the Mopar .557 solid, or milder their .528 solid. All this stuff is old school but cheap and works pretty well. Buy a used 750 or 850 Eddy or Holley carb and a Performer RPM intake. You'll like this combo.
Dou
 
Hey guys, new to the site and i'm rebuilding my fathers original owner 1972 charger. Kinda blew the budget on the body but what i have is a rebuilt 77 dodge 440 with flat top pistons, eddy heads and that is it for now. I was looking at a 500 hp build from car craft but the rocker parts are a little bit out of my price range as of now so i wanted to use the original rockers and my heads to do a high 400 hp build, any suggestions on cam, carb and things of that nature by the way it will be daily driver. Thanks

Do you know which pistons they are, or how far below the block deck they sit when at TDC? That will help figure compression ratio. I think the Car Craft article (Started in Nov of 2001, updated Dec 2004) used a Comp XE275HL cam?
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0205_mopar_440_update/photo_02.html

This was a nice buildup, and used Speed-Pro six pack pistons. To get the compression stated in the article the block would have had to be milled slightly to get the pistons near zero deck at TDC. Speed-Pro makes a lighter weight version of the same six-pack piston, but uses slightly narrower 1/16" piston rings and last I checked was priced almost the same as the heavier piston. The Light weight piston is still listed in the catalog, but I have not found it on-line at Summit or Jegs? I priced it last year (LW2355F30) at Summit for $409.39 /set?

I have a very lightly used Performer RPM intake and Holley 770 cfm Ultra Street Avenger carb (has billet metering blocks and base) that needs a new home. Let me know if your interested as this is not the for sale section.

Hood question? Does the car have a power bulge hood or hood scoop? The RPM intake and carb may need a taller than flat hood (will depend on how much drop the air filter base has and the height of the filter element.)
 
Thanks for the replies the car has a buldge hood. Btw with a forum like this you can't go wrong :headbang:
 
Welcome to the site. I wouldn't be too quick to discard your original plan. Remember that parts are usually only out of your price range when you have to have them now, and to get them you have to buy them new from someplace like Summit or another retailer.

One of the downsides to this hobby is projects are always dying for a host of reasons: someone falls ill, loses their job, threats from the spouse, need to relocate, too much cost, loss of interest, etc., and these failed projects often yield great opportunities to pick up parts and cars you need for much less cost than you would pay from a retailer. I just got a set of totally rebuilt and upgraded 915 heads for about a third of what it should have cost me because someone else paid the big $$$$ to the speed shop to get them done and then the project they were for got dropped and the owner was just trying to make back whatever money he could.

It's always better to get a car back on the road by spending someone else's money, so my suggestion is to plan out what you will need for the engine you really want, then use this forum, eBay, Craigslist, and other racing/performance forums and sites to find the parts you need from guys who bought them for one reason or another but don't need them anymore.
 
I hear many people assigning a HP number to a build as if they know what that is. I'm not judging you or picking on you so please bear with me as all I'm trying to do is make a point. I have no idea what my 66 Belvedere 440 has for HP because I never had the engine on a dyno. My dyno is the 1/4 mile, and if I get some good times from my build then I'm happy. All I have ever done is carefully choose components and assemble while taking measurements and recording what information I can for future reference. The car runs great and provides a lot of driving enjoyment. This is a 100% street car and when I say that I mean you can run this for thousands of miles without doing anything. The best part is it relies on mostly factory parts and is cheap to build.

But to answer your question I would hunt down a set of iron adjustable rockers and 3/8" push rods. A stable valve train is part of the HP and reliability recipe. For a cam use a 112 LSA grind with lift and duration in the .460" / 275 range. A 750 Eddy will work great.
 
Performance 101, what goes in must come back out... Budget will dictate allot of the build but here's a minimum guideline, how I build most of my performance projects... good camshaft Lunati, Mopar Performance, Crane, Comp etc. {contact them tell them what other parts are going into your build & what you expect out of it}, adjt. rockers & proper length/style push-rods & valve-train components {full kit if necessary, might be ok with the RPM heads springs, retainers & locks} to fit your specific needs... a proper torque converter to fit the cam & gears, your style of driving or what it will be used for... good flowing cylinder heads {IMHFO the RPM's are a great choice}... good free flowing exhaust system, preferably with good mid length headers 1-7/8" is more than adequate, it will really wake it up... a K&N Filter element... a hotter ignition & hotter coil {like Chrysler Electronic Ignition & with a MP Chrome ICU Control box & MSD Blaster 2 coil}, with ultra-low resistance spark plug wires, to fire the plugs well... a good quality Aluminum 4bbl intake, Aluminum dual plane if it's mainly going to be a street car with an occasional trip down the track, a Edelbrock Performer RPM is all around good choice {you may need to use a drop base air cleaner to clear the hood}... a good 4bbl carb properly sized & tuned for your build, like a 750cfm-850cfm would do the job well, I personally prefer the Holley type carbs myself {Quickfuel is my favorite brand they are extremely tunable}... keep your compression around 10:1 flat tops with near zero deck will get you there, to be safe you can run most any pump fuel that way, still easily make 500hp, run 91 octane with out issues... a good cooling system, including properly sized/style of radiator with a shroud & quality water pump... upgraded the fuel pump & use a 3/8" fuel sending unit & 3/8" {or #6AN lines minimum}, a good free flowing fuel filter before the pump & before the carb... {I also personally like a bypass style regulator, with a return line back to the fuel tank, but a regular fuel regulator will do too}... some mild head porting wouldn't hurt either get the best bang for your buck... good sealing rings & great machine work from a competent machinist, use quality hardware nuts bolt studs, not original cheap crap if you want it to live, also good gaskets, don't buy the cheapest crap out there etc.... also there are a multitude of books on how to tune & especially build a BB MoPar... I would highly suggest you buy a couple of books, like the Factory Service Manual, for you year make & model of car & any of the many "How to build a BB MoPar" books out there... there's allot more to a car build than just the engine, especially if your building a 500hp monster, everything need to be beefed up some, including the trans. if you want stuff to survive/live... That should give you a decent start, good luck what ever you decide...
 
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