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Engine Builders and Machine Shops...NorCal/Sacramento??

These rear mains can be a pain in the rear:eusa_eh:The same about the oil pan when using a scraper or windage tray.
There is a little "crush" required and that dab of silicone is needed also.I also silicone the parting line on the retainer:blob1:
 
Pulled the engine today and it is the Rear Main Seal. Galley Plugs and Cam Plug have no leakage either. I went with the Billet retainer in place of the original...which I still have by the way along with a NOS/New one...and have the 440 source seals. Found some other leakage issues which I will clean up also. Just not looking forward to tearing apart the engine..."AGAIN"...but I really have no choice. If this doesn't fix it then look for the car and project on eBay or Craigslist as I am done with the Hobby as I am rapidly loosing all my enthusiasm and it just ain't any fun any more. Believe me when I say this is the last shot after 8 plus years with this on going project. Thanks for all the suggestions and advise. The amount of time spent and the cost of things now will not let me have a shop do it. Stay tuned and thanks FBBO...cr8crshr/Tuck


If you need help doing it yourself just let me know I'm only 45 min away from you, Vacaville right? all you need to do is ask I'm sure a few of that are close would come up or down to you to help you out.
 
If you need help doing it yourself just let me know I'm only 45 min away from you, Vacaville right? all you need to do is ask I'm sure a few of that are close would come up or down to you to help you out.

You got it and thanks for the offer. All hands are welcome on this project as it stands. That being said...I have come to a decision on this project. I have the heads pulled from the block...[see post under General Tech also]...Other than the rear main seal, the bottom end looks in damn good shape after only a 20 min initial break in run. I will be swapping that pesky seal out in the next week or so and then let it sit for a while. Funds are getting tight and what with the Holidays on the horizon, I am going to have to do some saving of $$$$$$$'s. I will be swapping the re-worked stock heads...516's...for some Edlebrock Performer Heads or their E-Street Heads. Seems that this is the combos that most have gone with. And I do support trying to buy USA if I can. As we all know sometimes it is next to impossible to do that but if I can then I will. So that leaves out the 440 Source Heads even though they have a great following and their reputation seems to be really good. With the Edlebrocks though, I just do not like the spark plug's offset as I have read countless grips about the difficulty in their placement verses Headers and MOPAR HP Exhaust Manifolds. I am using the HP manifolds and want to stay with them as the exhaust is in...2.5in TTI set up. Cannot afford Headers anyway and I won't be running it at the strip. Just street with an attitude. Hopefully this will produce a better result than what I have at present. Top end will be the Heads, Edlebrock Performer Intake Manifold, Aluminum Valve Covers, and a Holley 750 Vac Secondaries, duel feed carb. Cam is the Hughes HEH 2328BL Hydraulic Flat Tappet, and their 5001 Lifters. Rear Gears are taller than I originally wanted...3.91:1 and I will be changing to 3.55:1 later. Cam Specs are as follows:

Flat Tappet Hydraulic / One Bolt Timing Gear. Mild street performance, hot resto., HP exhaust or headers, performance intake, 4 bbl or 3x2. 3.55:1 gear. Some idle, performance head work, HP ported Stage I heads, 165psi suggested cylinder pressure. Hotter daily driver.

Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5 .506"
.524"
Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6 .539"
.558"
Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050" 223°
228°
Lobe Separation Angle 111º
Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050" 3.5° BTC
48° BBC
Intake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050" 39.5° ABC
0° ATC
Min. Suggested Cylinder PSI 160
Sweet Spot RPM 1600 - 5300

Basically a pretty tame simple build that has been nothing but a head ache since I began this project. By the way...This build is exact same 383 build I did on my 1966 Chrysler 300 which I completely did myself. No farming out the build to a shop like I did with this one. It worked perfectly then but this time it didn't so I am now doing the re-re-build on my own. Appreciate all the info and advise/help so far. But right now, Money has to be saved up in order to complete this project and get it on the street. Besides my Brother...69A100 here on FBBO...has been more than patient with me...7 plus years in his garage...and a great help with the build but I would like to get it to my place now so I need to "Get 'Er Done...cr8crshr/Tuck
 
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