Was the distributor removed or ignition timing changed when changing the points?
If it was removed, and put back, it might be 180 degrees out or the timing is way off?
Ignition wise, it could be:
1) power to ignition coil. Jumper wire from coil positive to battery positive to test. Will need to remove jumper to kill engine if it starts. Only have it attached when cranking / trying to start the car. Don't want to leave attached as it could overheat the ignition coil if the points are closed.
If the engine fires up, need to trouble shoot wiring from coil to ignition switch.
2) On the coil negative side, only have it connected to the points. If there is wires for tachometer an/or noise suppression capacitor remove them.
The condenser inside the distributor should be left in place. Check point gap. If gap is too small the coil won't have a strong spark. If no gap or too much gap, coil will have no spark.
3) Check that rotor and cap are in good condition.
4) Check for spark at the end of the plug wires, not the ignition coil. Had a friends car where we went through the same thing (Points, cap, rotor, coil), and the spark at the end of the plug wires was weak. New set of plug wires and it ran great.
5) pull #1 plug, spin engine until compression pressure is felt (finger on spark plug hole.) set damper timing to about 10 degrees before TDC.
Make sure rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire on the cap. Rotate distributor to where the points just start to open. This should set the timing close for starting.
6) make sure spark plugs are not fowled or damaged.
If you have fuel or using starting fluid, and have a good spark at the spark plug, that leaves Ignition timing and compression (valve timing) to check.
I never had a Mopar skip cam timing, but when a 350 Chevy does, it will sound like it had no compression when cranking the engine.
If you get to the point of questioning the valve timing / valve train you likely will have to pull the valve covers and start checking for broken rocker arms, broken valve springs, or bent pushrods. Usually not a problem on a stock engine. If the exhaust valve stems are higher than the intakes, the exhaust valves may have worn out the valve seats. A leak down test, or just compressed air in the cylinder at TDC compression, if the air is coming out the exhaust, the heads will need new valve seats and/or valves.
