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Front cylinders not firing when cold

The Champion HO-8A (or alternately Champion UJ-11G) has a very broad heat range tolerance that resists low temp/low speed fouling (booster gap design) yet is immune to high speed/rpm pre-ignition conditions and due to the small diameter platinum center electrode resistant to mis fire and J-gap to allow better flame propagation. Name the NGK equivalent and I'll try them. Thus endith the lesson in proper spark plug selection........and put your preconceptions and hearsay knowledge in the round file.......
BOB RENTON
Interesting that you criticize guys for deviating from the factory ignition components until we reach the spark plug.
 
I must be losing my mind……..

I thought there was a post yesterday from the OP where he said it was solved, and that the issue was related to the ballast resistor.

Or was that some other thread?


Edit………never mind…….post 32.
I guess that means it’s fixed?
 
Last edited:
I must be losing my mind……..

I thought there was a post yesterday from the OP where he said it was solved, and that the issue was related to the ballast resistor.

Or was that some other thread?


Edit………never mind…….post 32.
I guess that means it’s fixed?
Until it fries the box without a resistor?? :D
 
Bob Renton,
Your nonsense in post #39: broader heat range, resists high rpm pre-ign.

When somebody posts something that doesn't tally with the Renton view of the world, you ask for PROOF.

Where is proof of the above claims? Where are the comparison tests with other spark plugs that prove your claims????????????????????

Until then, they are YOUR preconceptions...& Renton hearsay.
 
Bob Renton,
Your nonsense in post #39: broader heat range, resists high rpm pre-ign.

When somebody posts something that doesn't tally with the Renton view of the world, you ask for PROOF.

Where is proof of the above claims? Where are the comparison tests with other spark plugs that prove your claims????????????????????

Until then, they are YOUR preconceptions...& Renton hearsay.
35 years of using the named plugs is proof enough for me.....whether you believe or accept the concept of charge cooling.....I simply don't care. But, I suppose that's why you always proclaim the NGK brand.....which I've tried, but prefer the Champion type noted....the HO-8A works for me....so....put that in your pipe and smoke it......and remember....knowledge is fundamental.....
BOB RENTON
 
And there are equally people who have used NGK plugs [ & other brands ] for 35 years...with no complaints or failures.
So, no proof?

Yes, knowledge is fundamental. Your opinion isn't....
 
I would still pull the valve covers and adjust the rockers/valves/lifters to the proper spec. Of ounce he never did a compression test or a leak down test to see if there was or was not a problem there. Kim
 
I must be losing my mind……..

I thought there was a post yesterday from the OP where he said it was solved, and that the issue was related to the ballast resistor.

Or was that some other thread?


Edit………never mind…….post 32.
I guess that means it’s fixed?
Until it fries the box without a resistor?? :D

"Fixed" is subjective I've been working on the car on and off the last few days and will continue posting what works or what I find incase someone ever has a similar issue.

Fixing the plug gap brought #1 and #3 to life with the ballast resistor in play and I only bypassed temporary to see if the others would come alive and they did leading me to belive a/f ratio or spark is an issue.

I found a cracked plug on the manifold vacuum lines and replacing that now has #2 firing when cold, next on my list is to try another spark plug in #4 after using an inline tester to verify spark.

I really appreciate everyone's advice here as this is only the second classic car I've worked on and the first major project I've done.
 
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