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Engine Oil Mythology

moes

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I just came across this article about motor oils.

Engine Oil Mythology

Thanks to Bob Olree – GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group

GMPT – Fuels & Lubes

Myths are ill-founded beliefs held uncritically by interested groups. Over the years there has been an overabundance of engine oil myths. One was that the only good oils were oils made from “Pure Pennsylvania Crude Oil.” This one got started before the Second World War when engine oil was crude oil with very minimal refining, and crude oil from Pennsylvania made better engine oil than Texas or California crude. With modern refining, almost any crude can be made into good engine oil.

The next myth was that “modern” detergent engine oils were bad for older engines. This one got started after the Second World War, when the government no longer needed all the detergent oil for the war effort, and it hit the market as Heavy-Duty oil. These new detergent oils gave the pre-war cars, which had been driven way past their normal life and were full of sludge and deposits, a massive enema. In some cases bad things happened such as increased oil consumption – the piston rings were completely worn out and the massive piston deposits were the only thing standing between merely high and horrendous oil consumption. If detergent oils had been available to the public during the war, this myth never would have started.

Amazingly there are still a few people today, 60 years later, who believe that they need to use non-detergent oil in their older cars. Apparently it takes about 75 years for an oil myth to die.

Then there is the myth that new engines will not break-in on synthetic oils. Apparently there was an aircraft engine manufacturer who once put out a bulletin to this effect. Clearly the thousands and thousands of cars filled with Mobil 1 as factory-fill, which have broke-in quite well, should have put this one to rest. However this one is only 40 years old, so it has another 35 years to live.

All of these myths have a common theme; newer oils are bad. And this brings us to the latest myth – new “Starburst”/ API SM engine oils are bad for older cars because the amount of anti-wear additive in them has been reduced. This one has gotten big play in the antique and collector car press lately. The anti-wear additive being discussed is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP).

Before debunking this myth we need to look at the history of ZDP usage in engine oil.

ZDP has been used for over 60 years as an additive in engine oils to provide wear protection and oxidation stability. Unfortunately, ZDP contains phosphorus, and phosphorus is a poison for automotive catalysts. For this reason ZDP levels have been reduced by about 35% over the last 10-15 years down to a maximum of 0.08% for “Starburst”/API SM oils.

Zinc dithiophosphate was first added to engine oil to control copper/lead bearing corrosion. Starting in 1942, a Chevrolet Stovebolt engine with aftermarket copper/lead insert bearing connecting rods was the standard oil test. The insert bearings were weighed before and after test for weight loss due to corrosion. The phosphorus levels of oils that passed the test were in the 0.03% range.

In the mid 1950s Oldsmobile got in a horsepower war with its Rocket engine against the Chrysler Hemi. Both companies went to high-lift camshafts and both got into camshaft scuffing and wear problems very fast. There were three solutions. Better camshaft and lifter metallurgy, phosphating the camshaft, and increasing the phosphorus level from ZDP up to the 0.08% range. Another outcome was a battery of industry wide “Sequence” oil tests. Two of theses tests were valve-train scuffing/wear tests.

Knowing that this higher level of ZDP was good for flat-tappet valve-train scuffing and wear, some oil companies dumped even more in thinking that they were offering the customer even more protection. However it was soon learned that while going above something like 0.14% phosphorus might decrease break-in scuffing, it increased longer term wear. At about 0.20% phosphorus the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.

Later in the 1970s, the ZDP level was pushed up to the 0.10% phosphorus range as it was a cheap and effective antioxidant, and increased antioxidancy was needed to protect the oil in Cadillacs pulling Airstream trailers from thickening to the point of not pumping. Recently, the need for this higher level of ZDP for protecting the oil from thickening has been greatly reduced with the introduction of more modern ashless antioxidants that contain no phosphorus.

Enough history, now getting back to the myth that “Starburst/API SM oils are no good for older cars. The argument put forth by the myth believers is that while these oils work perfectly well in modern gasoline engines equipped with roller

camshafts, they will cause catastrophic wear in older engines equipped with flat-tappet camshafts.

The “Starburst”/API SM oil standards were developed by a group of OEM, oil additive company, and oil company experts. When developing any new engine oil standard the issue of “backward compatibility” always comes up, and indeed the group of experts spent a lot of time researching this issue. Various oil and additive companies ran “no harm” tests on older cars with the new oils. No problems were uncovered.

The new specification contains two valve-train wear tests. One is the Sequence IVA Test which tests for camshaft scuffing and wear using a 2.4L Nissan single overhead camshaft engine with slider finger followers. The wear limits were tightened from the previous oil specification which contained a phosphorus limit of 0.10%. The second is the Sequence IIIG Test which evaluates cam and lifter wear. A current production GM Powertrain 3.8L engine with the valve train replaced with a flat tappet system similar to those used in the 1980s is used. The only reason that this test engine uses this older valve train design is to insure that older engines are protected. All “Starburst”/API SM oil formulations must pass these two tests.

In addition to the protection offered by these two valvetrain wear tests and the new testing which was conducted on the formulations containing lower levels of ZDP, a review of the knowledge gained over the years in developing previous categories also indicates that no problem should be expected. The new “Starburst”/API SM oils contain about the same percentage of ZDP as the oils that solved the camshaft scuffing and wear issues back in the 1950s. They do contain less ZDP than the oils that solved the oil thickening issues in the 1960s, but that is because they now contain high levels of ashless antioxidants that were not commercially available in the 1960s.

The oil’s ZDP level is only one factor in determining the life of an older camshaft or a new aftermarket camshaft. Most of the anecdotal reports of camshaft failures attributed to the newer oils appear to be with aftermarket camshafts. Breaking in extremely aggressive aftermarket camshafts has always been problem. The legendary Smokey Yunick wrote that his solution to the problem was to buy multiple camshafts and simply try breaking them in until he found one that survived break-in without scuffing.

Despite the pains taken in developing special flat tappet camshaft wear tests that these new oils must pass and the fact that the ZDP level of these new oils is comparable to the level found necessary to protect flat tappet camshafts in the past, there will still be those who want to believe the myth that “new oils will wear out older engines.” Like other myths before it, history teaches us that it will take about 75 years for this one to die also.

February 13, 2007
 
Well, this is "interesting".
Which is the word to use when you don't know a better word.
Now I've got to worry about too much zinc.
Better stop adding STP.
I might be spalling my mushy factory camshaft.
It's only got 150K on it.
 
Guess Joe Gibbs shouldn't have wasted all that effort into developing oil for his flat tappet cams (when NASCAR ran them). He could have dumped some Wally Mart in there and called it a day.

There's a lot more that does into it. A 318 2bbl cam with stock valve springs will live forever. It's not gonna care about what oil your running because the lobe profile and the valve spring pressures just are not radical enough to hurt anything. But you put a .600 lift flat tappet motor together with 150# on the seat and 380# or more over the nose the situation changes. It's not apples to apples. Every situation needs to be evaluated for what it is.
 
I'll stick to straight Valvoline or Castrol 50 wt. racing oil.
 
Hmm, I hope Rotella T5 15W40 and a bottle of ZDDP Plus isn't "too much".
 
Back in the 70's, I was doing some work on a older gents mid 60's Oldsmobile. I recommended an oil change, since it was dark. He quipped, I don't change the oil, I just add it as it gets low. I asked when he did the last change. He said, never did. Car was about 8 years old at the time.
 
I went thru 2 mopar purple shaft 557 solid cams In 3 years using synthetic oil. I drove 2 1/2 hour one way to the race track back then so I just atributed the failures to that. I've since gone to a solid roller and still use synthetic oils.
 
Well, I use Valvoline SAE 30 weight oil in my 383 motor...have for the last many years...and no problems.
 
Back in the 70's, I was doing some work on a older gents mid 60's Oldsmobile. I recommended an oil change, since it was dark. He quipped, I don't change the oil, I just add it as it gets low. I asked when he did the last change. He said, never did. Car was about 8 years old at the time.
Years ago I had an old guy in my neighborhood who thought the same way until one day he found a rod hanging out of the side of his block. Expensive lesson.
 
Haven't had a flat cam since using Joe Gibbs break in oil and Lucas or comp cam zdpp additive.

Not saying this rocket scientist group is right or wrong but I always go off what has worked for me first hand real world experience. I take what I read with a grain of salt and mention of wisdom
 
I call bullshit on that article...
They pass the buck on the camshaft?
Politics has made me suspicious about anyone that has something to gain. An "engineer" for GM has more to benefit from people buying NEW GM cars than to own, race or restore an old car.
Blame the camshaft??

I've had 3 cam failures in 34 years of owning cars. One was in a junkyard engine I installed that developed a miss not long after I put it in. The second one was a Comp cams in my 440/493. The 3rd was a 292/508 in a 360.
The last 2 were new with new lifters. I did NOT use any "break in" additive in the oil, I just smeared each cam with the supplied gooey lubricant. I also used regular off the shelf oils.

Since those failures, I've used Joe Gibbs oil. Comp Cams break in supplement AND smeared the cam with the gooey stuff. Also, I've followed the instructions to ensure immediate starting.
No problems since then. I run high zinc oil and a bottle of the Comp Cams supplement at every oil change.
 
Wow,
so much on oil!
I wish we had a section designated to oil and oil only....
Thanks for posting this moes!

I always run Valvoline VR1 (1,200 ppm ZDDP) or Brad Penn (@1,000 ppm ZDDP)
But yes, roller cams do not need it
 
I generally try not to buy into much on the internet. This is interesting reading though..

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
Yikes! That is a LOT of info. As Kelly Bundy would say, "It makes the mind wobble".
dizzy.gif
Makes me rethink the diesel oil and ZDDP Plus I've been running.
 
I read the whole 540ratblog; as Ranger16 says as above. I think I'm going to start looking at price & psi ratings. I never went for exotics back in day and never had a cam,etc. failure. Mostly just Valvoline Racing oil.
 
Don't believe everything & everyone you read on the internet...

that 540rat guy I read his spiel on Speedtalk about 10 years ago,
"some of it has great merit too"... {just re-read some of it too}
He is a long winded self promoter...

He had real issues with Brad Penn for damn sure...

I do what I know works for me & stick with it...
I don't buy cheap WalMart oils or trans fluids or a bunch of additive BS oil either...

Oil is your life blood of your engine,
why in the hell would you ever skimp on that ?

My DD 99 Dakota SLT 5.2/318 4x4 auto, full roller
with a bunch of bolt-on stuff, has Royal Purple full synthetic,
so far so good, I recently like 10 years ago switched...

Disclaimer;
{I have had destructive & chemical analysis done on both oils, by a friend & fellow race-buddy that works in Chevron Research & Development Co., in Richmond Ca.}


Now my racecars & hot rods I use Torco Racing {it ain't cheap thou $9.95/qt},
I've never wiped a cam in my life...
Never had any failure because of oil quality lubrication values either...
I've had parts failures but it wasn't the oils...
Viscosity depending on volume of oil/capacity, heat, oil pressures, oil temps,
even the seasons...
In my race engines in colder weather like 40*-50*
I run a thinner viscosity, like 10/40
in warmer weather like 80*-100*
I like to run a thicker viscosity 20/50...
I like my oil temps to be between religiously between 160* & 180*,
I chose my oils based on that in part, depending on the type of build,
preferably never lower or higher before or on any run...
So far so good...

I find something that's proven to work & stick with it...
It's not the best rated or most expensive either, but it's good to me...

Now running Methanol I ran 50-70wt 12 Qts of it usually,
Alcohol has a tendency to kill the oil, turns it to yellow baby ****
if you put enough fuel threw the engine to make real power,
I changed it every race too, sometimes if need be ever pass if it was necessary...

Like I said before,
"oil is your engines/trans/rear diff. etc.'s life blood,
why in the hell, would you ever skimp in that area ?"
I work far to hard for my money to throw it away on rebuilds
that can easily be prevented by using quality oils/liquids/lubricants...

There's more to picking your oil than price point, or convenience
some people are cheap, plain & simple...

I've always done the Hi-Zink content oils for initial break in on my DD's too,
especially if they have flat tappet camshaft, old habits die hard...
Some people think if a little is good a ton of it must be great, NOT !!
It doesn't hurt to break in with it, just not cheap *** oils either &
it's worked for 40+ years now, if it ain't broke, why mess with it ?...

Moral is buy quality oils, not cheap bargain brand ****,
you can decide the brands for yourself, what you can afford/it's your money
& your engine...
Don't believe all the internet BS either,
just because it's on the -www- doesn't make it fact or truth...
I know what works for me & stick with it, I will change if I need to, so far so good...
We'll see on the Royal Purple, it's only been 10-12 years now
So far so good...

I'll leave it at that, I'm seemingly getting a bit long winded too...
 
Don't be too quick to shoot down "cheap Walmart oils". I've used it for years in my daily drivers and from what research I have done, Walmart SuperTech oils rate pretty well. I have never seen any ratings like Rat's PSI rating on it though.
 
I read the whole 540rat blog, then filled the 511 up with brad penn.. like I said, interesting reading material.. lol
 
How did I miss all of this lol!? Working for an oil refinery for 26 years hurt me :D Even though I was in the mechanical side and not in the process end of it, I still learned a lot. You get to meet a lot of different people when you are in the refinery repairing stuff but one of the perks was getting to go repair stuff in the lab and talking to the people who run it.The refinery I worked in is a sour crude processor and man, they do not waste anything!

I know that too much ZDDP can pose a problem too but so can not enough for the typical non roller set up. Thing I noticed first several years ago was that GM cars were having more problems with flattened lobes than anyone else even before the ZDDP additive was lowered or removed. Also, materials that the cam and lifters were made of was part of the problem while another part of the problem was break in on high lift cams with heavy valve springs. An old machinist told me many years back to break in a 'large' cam using only the outer spring and leave the inner and damper out or just use weak springs and once break in was completed, install the full boogie. It's a pain in the butt but it seemed to work better that way to me. Also, oils do not always stay the same.

The refiners do change things based on gooberment mandates and for other reasons. One of the mandates/reasons being is oil with ZDDP additives poisons the converter faster and after much testing, it was found that engines with roller cams can survive with a minimum amount of the stuff.....and yeah, the gooberment (EPA) was behind that one too. Also, the auto manufacturers have to warranty all major emission control components. I got a new cat and computer on my 95 Dakota years ago even though the regular factory warranty had expired.

Specified major emission control components are covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever first occurs). The specified major emission control components only include the catalytic converters, the electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU), and the onboard emissions diagnostic (OBD) device or computer.

So, the manufacturers and the gooberment is going to do all they can to make these components last as long as possible and if there's something in the oil or fuel that may cause the cat or any other device to fail early, it's going to get changed.
 
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