Oil ratings, API classifications and oil integrity

[Sixpactogo]

The additive package is *everything*" when it comes down to what the oil is intended for and capable of. (not picking at you Sixpactogo, I read thru this in one sitting and several other folks mentioned the additives also)

An oil guy I worked with years ago told me about mixing oil - if you know everything about both additive packs, and if they'll play well together - go ahead. They might not work well together, and you won't know that you're getting less protection than if either one was used alone.

There needs to be a whole website just about lubricants, where we could learn about them first-hand from industry insiders and experts.

What I know about the additives is very little. I remember back in the 50's & 60's Pennzoil bragged about their oil and the Z-7 additive. My dad used that **** in his Oldsmobile and swore it was the best. I remember when the lifters started rattling, we pulled the valve covers and it looked like they were still on. You could read Rocket 88 in the gunk that was built up. I have never used Pennzoil in anything I have ever owned because of it. Not even a lawnmower.
Both of my Hemi engines call for Mobil 1 so that is what they get. The other two (60 Dart & 65 Fury) V8's get Valvoline 10W-40 exclusively. Both are carbureted so the oil gets dirtier quicker than the Hemi's which are fuel injected. None of them give me any grief so I have no intentions of making changes.

 

[1STMP]

I thought you said oil.... Pennzoil isn't oil....

Agreed.
Pennzoil is high in parafins
and readily absorbs water
vapor. Thru experience I quit
using it due to increased
frequency of oil changes.
It creates lots of sludge
under the valve covers.

 

[1STMP]

There are 9 quarts of this too:

View attachment 1575454

View attachment 1575455

I don't think you'll have a
problem running the Castrol
GTX. I've used it exclusively
in an '76 AMC 360 for years.
At 100,000 mile 2nd rebuild,
cylinder wear was minimal
with no ridge at the top.
Top end was clean with no
sludge.
Flat tappet cam and lifters.
This engine sees severe
duty 110 deg hot, dry, dusty
days of crawling over desert
terrain.

 

[Kern Dog]

I have a 67 Dart with a reringed 360, a 75 Power Wagon with the original stock cam 440, and a fairly stock 360 in a Duster. I figure this oil is fine for any one of them.

 

[1STMP]

I don't think you'll have a
problem running the Castrol
GTX. I've used it exclusively
in an '76 AMC 360 for years.
At 100,000 mile 2nd rebuild,
cylinder wear was minimal
with no ridge at the top.
Top end was clean with no
sludge.
Flat tappet cam and lifters.
This engine sees severe
duty 110 deg hot, dry, dusty
days of crawling over desert
terrain.

One thing I might add, KD,
is I've not added ZDDP to
to the Castrol and it has
survived thru more than
150,000 miles of severe
duty use.
I've added ZDDP to the oil
in my freshly built 440, but
mainly for break in.
After about 1,000 miles I
plan on running no additive
using Castrol GTX 20w-50.

 

[zrxkawboy]

Do you think the lower detergent oil may carry a higher amount of Zinc/ZDDP ? How would it even be determined without an oil analysis?

I would love it if you would send some of that oil off for a VOA. (Just be sure to shake up the bottle before you fill the sample bottle, in case some additives have settled.) I personally think there's a lot less ZDDP in these oils than many people believe...would like to know for sure. Amazon has the WIX 24077 Kit for $24.99.

 

[Fury Fan]

There is such a site. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

Yeah, that's exactly why I said that. Sometimes FABO, FBBO, FCBO, etc, are not good places to get good answers.