Engine out...now what?

[eagleone1983]

Hey guys...I just bought a '68 383 to replace the 400 I currently have in my '69 Runner. I was just wondering while it is all easily accessable what should I change/replace or upgrade. The 383 never smoked but the bottom end has never been done, the top end has been done. All is stock except for the intake manifold which is an edelbrock 383 performer. Also I was told the heads are closed chamber but I can't remember what kind.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Sometimes you just don't want to know. What I mean is there is a fine line between repairs and rebuilding the whole thing one part at a time. There is an old saying: If it works don't f@&* with it.

Here is a check list that should help you make a decision:

Does it carry good oil pressure? 55 PSI at I think 2000 RPM
Leak down test (not compression). Should be even and at about 90%.
You already said it doesn't smoke so the valve seals and guides should be OK.
Does it have hard seats for unleaded? 516 and 915 are not hard seat heads from the factory.

If it's mechanically sound I'd do a seal and freeze plug rebuild and stuff it in. A timing chain would be a good idea if it has the original nylon tooth cam sprocket.

Hmmm, did I miss anything :dontknow:

 

[eagleone1983]

As far as I know compression and everything should be good to go. It has hard seats already so unleaded won't be a problem. The timing chain is new. What about the water pump I heard that is a good item to replace if the engine is out and you're not sure how old it is. Another question I have is I want to install aftermarket headers and I'm thinking Hooker's 5101. Does anybody know if there are going to be any clearance issues? I have power steering and a gigantic starter so I just wanted to be sure before I go out a buy anything.

 

[Deleted member 214]

I havc a 70 'runner with a 440. Hedman headers hit the driver side torsion bar, the Hookers cleared. However, when I tried to put factory power steering on it the headers hit the box. I had ceramic coat units so was afraid to "massage" them with a hammer very much. I'm told TTI headers will have the best fit, but they ain't cheap. Good luck!

 

[eagleone1983]

Cheap? So far I don't know the word...Are there such things for my car? I'll check into the TTIs, it'll be a while until I get to pull the trigger on those though.

 

[Basoline]

Do you WANT to install headers or do you NEED to install headers. Why not consider Magnum manifolds. Performance is good for a stock 383 and man the clearance...it's like wide open spaces everywhere. You can even swap you 'gigantic' starter with a High-Torque starter without having to remove the headers! WOW! Talking about luxury! LOL

If you NEED to install headers, consider the TTI's. They should bold on easy.

 

[Patrick]

Summit has a good header that fits and works great. I've ran them on three 60's and a 71 B body big blocks. There a quality piece made by hedman to summits specs.

 

[mr.belvedere]

headers by doug fit like a glove, and 300 bucks cheaper than TTI. even the coated ones. don't get doug's headers confused with doug thorley headers though. he sold the name thorley to a company that makes crappy tubes, big mistake. you can buy doug's headers directly through pertronix ignition, or through summit racing.

 

[eagleone1983]

I've heard of Doug's they are advertised in moparmuscle. As far as HP/TQ gains are they pretty much the same between the brands? What size should I get for my car, 1 7/8"s?

 

[69 Runner]

If you can find them you're better off with a 1.75" tube on a 383. They will help keep the torque curve flatter through the mid range than a larger tube will

 

[hawkdriver09]

run the summits on my 383 pretty happy with sound and performance crappy coating though

 

[Sweet5ltr]

run the summits on my 383 pretty happy with sound and performance crappy coating though

You are correct, I run the summit racing long tube headers on my 440 and the coating within an engine break in period has peeled off. This was even after spraying two additional coats of "rattle can" high temp header paint. If you want looks, go ceramic. Other than that the clearance is good and craftsmanship is second to none.

 

[brandon64]

water pump is easy to change (in car).

 

[63RedFury]

Since your 383 is pretty much stock a 1 5/8 header would work fine.I have ran the 1 5/8 Headman headers before in my 66-70 B Bodies with no issues as long as you have floor shift.They will work with colum shift with alittle bit of work.

 

[iraqivet01]

You are correct, I run the summit racing long tube headers on my 440 and the coating within an engine break in period has peeled off. This was even after spraying two additional coats of "rattle can" high temp header paint. If you want looks, go ceramic. Other than that the clearance is good and craftsmanship is second to none.

I know the place that coating my headers told me during break-in not to install them because the engine will run hotter and will mess up the coating.

Don't kill the messenger, just passing on what I was told.

My cousins headers are coated, and he has had them for a number of years, and they still look like they just came right out of the box.

your 383, at least replace your front and rear main seal, pan, and valve cover gaskets. Nothing bits more then starting it up, and seeing oil leaking.

 

[eagleone1983]

Whoa, this post has been resurrected. Actually since this post the engine has been built the heads I had on the engine when I bought it were the close chambered 915s but I sold them and bought aluminum heads. Still haven't bought headers yet but will be going with Doug's or TTI. I've heard about the don't run the headers when breaking in the motor thing but I probably won't have a choice as I don't want to have to install two different exhaust systems.

 

[iraqivet01]

If you didn't bore and hone the cylinders, replace your pistons and rings, you should be alright it they are already seated and broke in. That will make it run hotter.
Just make sure you have your carb adjusted right (not too lean) cause that also will make it run hot and discolor and screw up the coating.

I think it also a clause the Header Coater put out so if their coating fails they could fall back on that excuse.
You should be alright.

High heat paint does not work for the long haul on headers and will peal off in time.
It's a tempory feel good paint.
High heat paint only good for things that are not subject to direct heat such as headers. Brackets, and engine parts, air cleaners, radiators. etc....

 

[scotts74birds]

Ok, we all agree header paint dont work, and ceramic coatings only sometimes. What about the wraps? Some folks say it keeps the heat in and cracks the headers. Never seen this, or heard of this happening to someone I know. But it does sound like a good idea to reduce underhood temps. Where do you folks stand on this?