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External oil pump hose routing help

2quick

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Bought a Milodon external oil pick up for my 440. Supposed to work with stock motor mounts and they offer another version for motor plates which i did not get. It Uses the Milodon oil pump, cover plate and pan so you think it would work together. Not sure what Milodon had in mind but no matter how I run the hose it doesn't work. The instructions say to have the line turn up out of the pump so oil doesn't drain back into the pan causing dry starts but that makes it worse and the hose is like a foot to short togo around under the engin. I am running a QA1 cross member and Borgeson steering box but I would have thought they would help the situation being they are both much smaller then stock stuff.

Anyone have some pics of how they routed there single oil line from the pump to the pan?
 
Some pics of what I have.

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I have always used a front entrance oil pump. So my fitting doesn't leave the bottom like yours. One thing I see that is reverse from how I did mine. The 90 degree fitting was in the pan, not at the pump. That allowed my line to go up and hug the block. Then cross over the top of the motor mount in your case and curve under the header tube into the pump. rather than being laid out away from the block. You can clock it to about 11 and it shouldnt drain back.
 
I am in the same boat, but I am running the old school plate style with front pick-up and a road race pan.

FPGxq9NO5L-0KOAlxT7r-KpkFK-Fu9KWC52aC9DnETCJgYBy2q7UvLkedpDEe915soUPxhsBoQh8ha81gQ=w1688-h949-no.jpg


Here is my issue with trying to go under the mount.
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RYOpAdw7NL1g9hrfsGU0Gs9OuUgSr3raUw18naajbyfWXaUHwV0mzRmSlxYjJT0xXqp5IiJNjBobMeHRjH=w1688-h949-no.jpg


I have to pull the motor back out anyway, so I may route the hose after I get it back in..
 
My problem is if I route the hose under the mount and along side the steering box it rubs real bad on the steering box no matter how I clock it, almost to the point of kinking the hose. I see some guys use a 45 on top of the 90 off the pump, this may bring the hose closer to the block and get it off the steering box but I'm thinking I should just come straight up from the pump, then loop around toward the radiator, then come under the oil filter just above the k member and into the oil pan, basically throwing the milodon hose in the garbage. Also another problem is I don't have a single blue fitting anywhere on this car and would really like to change those blue to black fittings. looks like the fitting in the pump is special to the pump with a longer then normal tapered AN fitting then a bulkhead o-ring back up nut. I don't see this in a black version on Earl's or Russell's website.
 
looks like the fitting in the pump is special to the pump with a longer then normal tapered AN fitting then a bulkhead o-ring back up nut

That fitting into the pump is not tapered, they use a straight fitting - hence the need for the o-ring seal. Those are available from Summit from a variety of manufacturers and available in various angles and colors.

Using a straight fitting allows it to be clocked any way you want whereas a tapered fitting has some limitations.
 
That fitting into the pump is not tapered, they use a straight fitting - hence the need for the o-ring seal. Those are available from Summit from a variety of manufacturers and available in various angles and colors.

Using a straight fitting allows it to be clocked any way you want whereas a tapered fitting has some limitations.
Nope definitely tapered I pulled it out.. It may work with a straight o-ring fitting but that's not what in there. I'll take a pic later when I get home.
 
AN83745DegreeBulkheadUnionFBM2893-2127-21.jpg


I called Milodon, This is the fitting they use at the pump. They modify this areoquip fitting by cutting off the first threaded section then putting the bevel back on. He did say it didn't need to be (nor should it be) bottomed out in the pump.
 
2quick, I have a dual line system on my GTX and both my lines are different than what you have. Bottom fittings at the oil pan are both 90's and the pump has a line coming in the rear with a 180 fitting if the front of the pump. This might not help with your issue but I thought I would chime in.
Bob :moparsmiley:
 
Yup ... and that's not a tapered fitting.

Here's something they fail to tell you ...
A straight fitting like this has ZERO sealing ability. They put a nut and o-ring on there BUT the oil still seeps past the threads on the nut. Not much but on a pretty car like yours its gonna always have a wet spot around the fitting. The solution is to use pipe sealant on the fitting into the pump (and you could discard the o-ring). Teflon tape doesn't work and do NOT use silicone !!

At the pan you have a similar issue, a straight fitting into the pickup. And of course they supply a nut and o-ring. But the same problem exists here. And the solution is the same - pipe sealant on the fitting into the pickup. And at the pan the best place for the o-ring is inside the pan between the pickup and the pan wall.
 
Yup ... and that's not a tapered fitting.

Here's something they fail to tell you ...
A straight fitting like this has ZERO sealing ability. They put a nut and o-ring on there BUT the oil still seeps past the threads on the nut. Not much but on a pretty car like yours its gonna always have a wet spot around the fitting. The solution is to use pipe sealant on the fitting into the pump (and you could discard the o-ring). Teflon tape doesn't work and do NOT use silicone !!

At the pan you have a similar issue, a straight fitting into the pickup. And of course they supply a nut and o-ring. But the same problem exists here. And the solution is the same - pipe sealant on the fitting into the pickup. And at the pan the best place for the o-ring is inside the pan between the pickup and the pan wall.

Yes you are correct about the taper I meant the taper as on a AN fitting not NPT type taper. Anyway you bring up a good point with the thread sealant on the threads and I wish I would have thought about it earlier cause the pickup is already in the pan attached to the motor already in the car so can’t address that now. I did just order the o-ring/-AN adapter and a 90 -12 hose end to make the turn up and then a 120 deg -AN to start back down towards the radiator and then back to oil pan between oil filter and k frame. This should work. And yes if any oil seeping does acure it’s really going to piss me off. Why wouldn’t Milidon just weld a bung to side of pan instead of using a bulkhead fitting. Then you could use any fitting you wanted at any time without worrying about leaks.
 
These were initially designed for drag race applications and I don't think they or anyone else gave a damn about a minor drip.
 
These were initially designed for drag race applications and I don't think they or anyone else gave a damn about a minor drip.
None of the pics are like mine. It comes off the back top of the new hi volume pump, w/ a AN 45 on it. The pan has a 90 degree fitting on it w/ a swinging p/u. All this on an old alum. 7 qt. rear sump, funny car pan. I just ran it down to the 90 on the pan, no upward curve / no problems . picks up oil very quickly , about a second or two. That is what oil film is for anyway. I bought all this used off e bay and reworked it , probably dont have over $100 in all of it.
 
That rear entry pump is for Hemi applications and doesn't work with wedge motors - at least not with a stock k-member.

The idea of looping the hose up above the pump is to keep some oil in the line so its self priming. This was an issue with the Miliodon style pump impellers but was never an issue with stock-style impellers.
 
That rear entry pump is for Hemi applications and doesn't work with wedge motors - at least not with a stock k-member.

The idea of looping the hose up above the pump is to keep some oil in the line so its self priming. This was an issue with the Miliodon style pump impellers but was never an issue with stock-style impellers.

Interesting. I don`t run a stock K member . Motor plate.
 
That rear entry pump is for Hemi applications and doesn't work with wedge motors - at least not with a stock k-member.

The idea of looping the hose up above the pump is to keep some oil in the line so its self priming. This was an issue with the Miliodon style pump impellers but was never an issue with stock-style impellers.
Stanton, I hate to disagree with you but I have a Milodon spacer plate with a rearward facing fitting and a threaded hole in front allowing a 180 fitting and both hoses. I used this setup prior to adding a motor plate.
Bob :moparsmiley:
 
You're not disagreeing with me, you're disagreeing with Milodon ...

426 Hemi or Wedge with motor plate 21100
383-440 Wedge, with stock motor mounts 21110

The top one is the rear entry pump, the bottom one is side entry

If you look at the photos of my system its quite obvious there isn't enough room for a fitting on a rear entry pump with stock mounts on a wedge motor.

But hey, if you got it to work, good for you.
 
I ran mine like this due to front plate & header clearances But I have the flat bottom top fuel pan. Make sure to have the loop that runs up as high as you can to avoid drain back.

20160414_201129.jpg
 
Having assembled a bunch of those external systems over the years, I can say I’m not a fan. The internal setup is so much more clean and simple.
 
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